MACAENSECUISINEAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaOrigins and evolution ne can say that Fusion Cuisine had its beginnings during the era of Portuguese discoveries in the 15th century then continued to develop after the long stay of the Portuguese and their descendants in the tiny Portuguese enclave of Macau. Asian wives, concubines and amahs brought with them their ingredients, cooking methods and utensils to adorn Portuguese soul food embraced in the memo-ries of the Portuguese men who sailed to reside in the East. Over the centuries these unique flavors, usually with lots of gravy, developed to become Macaense cuisine.In the 21st century many of the recipes were transported in the notebooks and memories of those who emigrated from East to West after the raison dʼetre of the Portuguese colonialists and their multi-lingual descendants ceased to be. Dissipating in the culture of fast food and other ethnic influences, changes in the produce market, and the passage of time, Macaense soul food is slowly being diversified – some recipes and ingredients progressing with the change of time and others commercially misrepresented.Recipe evolution is inevitable, occurring from the beginning of Eastern influence on Portuguese cuisine to this day. Our youngsters, several generations now born in the West far from the roots of their parents in Asia, still enjoy Macaense cuisine. Their Western friends, tasting this food for the first time relish and await another taste. Minchi might soon compete with other ethnic delights while Balichão and Cabidela fade into history.O What is Macaense Cuisine? What is its history and how has it evolved outside of Macau, Hong Kong and Shanghai following the diaspora of the Macaense people after World War II?MACAENSE CUISINEOrigins and evolution

MACAENSE CUISINEOrigins and Evolution

MACAENSE CUISINE Origins and evolutionAuthor António M. Jorge da SilvaEditor International Institute of MacauProduction MacaulinkCopy EditionRebecca ChanEditorial CoordinationCatarina MesquitaCover DesignFernando ChanCover Photo Olga A. Pacheco Jorge da Silva (Author’s mother)Design Conceição MatosCirculation 1,000 copiesPrinting Tipografia VitóriaISBN 978-99937-45-98-3Macau, November 2016With support from

CONTENTS 05 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 07 PREFACE 10 CHAPTER 1 Origins of Macaense Cuisine 25 CHAPTER 2 Macaense Cuisine 34 CHAPTER 3 Influences on Macaense Cuisine 47 CHAPTER 4 Claims of Authenticity 54 CHAPTER 5 Evolution of Macaense Cuisine 63 CHAPTER 6 Genti di Macau 71 CHAPTER 7 Recipes 73 Glossary of Terms 79 Appetizers 99 Soups105 Main Courses159 Desserts and Confections182 Chinese Dishes in Macaense Homes200 Sauces209 Recipe Index211 Kitchen Measurement Conversion Charts213 BIBLIOGRAPHY214 PHOTOGRAPHY215 BIOGRAPHY

7m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nACKNOWLEDGEMENTSThe author wishes to acknowledge and thank all the people who have contributed recipes, and have participated in the discussions on the history of Macaense cuisine and in the preparation of many dishes over the years that we all enjoyed, my mother in particular who sent me recipes when I was away from home and my wife Penny who learned from my mother and always encouraged me to learn to cook them in the years gone by.I must again thank the Instituto Internacional de Macau (IIM) for publishing this book, Rufino Ramos for asking me to improve on the original recipe book I wrote for my children and adding to the history and origins of Macaense cuisine. Academic encouragement to believe I could research and accomplish a historical document with recipes came from Professor Tze-ki Hon of the State University of New York at Geneseo. He once again gave his time to review and comment on my text.My thanks goes to my friend Gerald “Gerry” McDougall, who wrote many recipes for Chinese dishes and permitted me to copy old recipes written by his mother. I would also like to thank Alberto Garcia and José de Santos Ferreira for coaching me on how to cook several dishes between the mid-1980s and the 1990s.My thanks also go to those who cooked some of the dishes and provided me with photographs for this book; Gerald McDougall, Alberto Garcia, Sheila Collaço, Ana Manhão Sou, Dorothy Oliveira Abbas, José dos Santos Ferreira Jr., Catarina Canavarro Ramos, and my wife Penny.Rebecca Chan, the copyeditor of this book, deserves more than special thanks as her impeccable work and dedication to detail is exceptional.

9m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nPREFACEThere are so many recipe books available today. This one is special to me as it explains the origins and evolution of Macaense1 cuisine, including a collection of recipes that our family and friends have enjoyed over the years. With the recipes are explanations of some Macau creole (Maquista) words or sometimes stories behind the origin of the recipes. The recipes written are detailed and step-by–step with regard to the preparation of the dishes. Most of the photographs were taken by me from actual dishes cooked for the many family meals, celebrations, and parties enjoyed by family and friends. Some were taken by Rufino Ramos whose wife Catarina cooked some of my recipes in Macau. Hopefully my casual and personal approach will be informative and interest those who read and use the recipes.I would like to point out that writing this book in the third person is very difficult to me as so much in the book, the recipes in particular, are very personal and memories of the past. To the extent possible, I have maintained using the term “the author” in the historical chapters, but when it comes to the recipes and the description of the dishes, I have taken the liberty of returning to the personal usage of “I” and “me.”I treasure the recipes left to me by my mother, as that is the taste I remember best of Macau cuisine. Over the years I have learned by sharing Macaense food cooked by different families that taste preferred by one group can vary quite a lot from that by others. Being of a Macau family and having spent much of my youth in Hong Kong following World War II, I can say that Macaense cuisine between one and the other can be quite different. Now that I have spent over forty years in California, it is very obvious that the method of my cooking has evolved, not to mention that the ingredients and the quality of produce, particularly meat, have also influenced the end result — taste!I remember the years after World War II in Hong Kong when the Macaense community returned from almost four years as refugees in Macau. For many of 1 Macaense refers to anyone born in Macau or whose ancestors were born in Macau who lived in Macau, Hong Kong, Shanghai, the Treaty Ports on the China coast, including other parts of Asia, and a few in Japan, and who are blood descendants of the Portuguese; whereas Macanese (the English spelling) can be anyone from Macau or whose ancestors were born in Macau with no Portuguese genes.

10us, as children, we said “chocolate” for the first time and discovered the taste of Wrigley’s chewing gum, but for the adults of the community, it was “returning home.” It was like a new life had emerged and food was available again. The years went by quickly as we crowded into schools, had milk to drink, and found new freedom in the air. Many were lucky that their homes, which they left behind in the care of trusted friends, were not looted. In my family’s case, our four amahs (housemaids) and our “cookboy” also managed to ensure that our possessions and furniture were intact; however, my parents’ money, some of which had to be forcibly changed into Japanese military Yen, became worthless. Luckily there were jobs again in Hong Kong as businesses reopened and some still had a few personal jewels to sell to make ends meet. As the years passed, life found some normality again. The scarcity of food was no more, but new opportunities abroad soon paved the way for young adults to move overseas, eventually leading to the diaspora of the community.Preparation for Christmas in our home in Hong Kong was always a busy time. It was not shopping for gifts, but the baking and the beautiful dinner table that made Christmas special. My mother’s fantastic Christmas cake and Christmas pudding with small plastic wrapped silver charms in it for the lucky ones were the center of attraction. The large silver candelabrum, which was the centerpiece, glistened under the warm light of flickering candles. The dining table, large enough to seat sixteen comfortably, was full of the delectable masterpieces mother had been preparing for weeks: Vaca Estufada, Presunto (smoked ham), Turkey, Empada de Peixe Pinhão, Bacalhau Gomes de Sá, and Bolinhos de Bacalhau, to name only a few. There were also a variety of cakes and puddings, all decorated for the occasion: Farófias, Pudim de Caramelo, Arroz Doce, Fios de Ovos (Cabelo de Noiva in Maquista patois), Genetes (cornstarch cookies), Christmas Cake, and Christmas Pudding. All these and more were invariably on the table and were not merely listed alternatives from Christmas to Christmas. As each of her sons left home to find a new life in other countries, my mother would invite a total stranger, usually a serviceman away from home, to sit in for those absent…This is a small part of our heritage left behind by my mother, who spent her life dreaming and waiting to be “in the embrace of her children.” It is a pity that her main and very complete recipe book was lost when she immigrated to California in the early 1970s. On the other hand, I was very fortunate that in the 1960s, she sent me a small handwritten notebook with some of my favorite dishes. Many of my mother’s recipes were modified by me when I first learned to cook, fumbling through in my inexperience the methods and steps in cooking Macaense food. The proportions in the recipes were less of a problem, but the ingredients used then differed from those in both size and taste from what was available in the Californian supermarkets. Over time, I simplified the modifications I made and am now satisfied with my interpretation of my mother’s recipes and the addition of my personal touch. Some of the recipes I created came from a taste in my mind, others were to capture a taste I remembered from food I had eaten many years ago. In either case, I would

11m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nwrite down the ingredients as I used them and made notes on the preparation immediately after I cooked the dish. A week or so later, I would try the dish again, making modifications as necessary and, when satisfied, type it into recipe form, adding it to my collection. Several recipes are favorites, which my mother did not cook for me at home but which I had tasted either at parties of family and friends or in restaurants in Macau and Macaense club events. Galinha Africana is one of them.The evolution of Macaense or Macanese cooking for those of us who have immigrated to California is inevitable. The ingredients are different: Californian wine, a great variety and abundance of meat and seafood, etc. Even the appliances and utensils have influenced the method of preparation. Balichão (shrimp paste), amargoso (bitter squash), and lam-si (pulp of preserved salted olives) used in some Macaense dishes will be used less and less until they fade out of the repertoire. Dishes with fula papaia (papaya flowers), being very difficult or now impossible to obtain, are no longer prepared. In my house, we now have new recipes, such as BBQ Curried Minchi Buns, Chili Prawns, and other modified and adapted Macaense dishes.I cook Macaense food at home at least twice a month and am teaching my children and grandchildren to both enjoy and cook some of the dishes. We often have non-Macaense friends and their families over to dinner and they do enjoy the food. We have found that even dishes with balichão are often a “big hit” so long as the frying of the shrimp paste is done a couple of hours before the company arrives. Macaense cuisine will evolve as fusion cuisines do. Though the diaspora of the people from the shores of China has accelerated that process, and the quantities, size, and quality of ingredients and produce have seen a change, the basic tastes and identity are retained.António M. Jorge da Silva

CHAPTER 1Origins of Macaense Cuisine

14Tea in the Garden at Chacara Leitão, Macau, circa 1917Berta Araújo, Olga A. Pacheco Jorge, Maria Amália Leitão? ? Leitão?, Ernestina Araújo, Clotilde “Tilde” Leitão?António M. Jorge da Silva collection

15m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMacaenses are the descendants of the Portuguese who ventured beyond the coasts of Africa, India, and the Malay Peninsula to China and Japan to seek an alternate route to the spice trade and the spread of Christianity. Their antecedents settled in Macau on the southeast coast of China in 1557.To understand Macaense cuisine one needs to first take a brief glance at a few historic events dating back to the Romans and the Arab occupation of the Iberian Peninsula that influenced the origins of Portuguese food. The Arabs, known in Portuguese history as the Moors, captured almost all of the Iberian Peninsula except for the very north where the resistant Iberian forces began the Reconquista (reconquest), which was to last approximately 770 years to the fall of Granada in 1492.The Arabs brought with them knowledge of the sciences, astronomy, and mathematics, which would later have great bearing on the future Portuguese and Spanish discoveries of the then unknown world. With them also came their culture, art, architecture, music, and cuisine that very much influenced the Iberians in the centuries to come. Yet, the use of spices in what is today Portuguese and Spanish cuisine can be traced back to the Roman occupation of the Iberian Peninsula. Roman settlers brought with them their customs, way of life, and language apart from building an infrastructure to a once tribal society. They introduced onions, garlic, and olives, ingredients that are imperative to Portuguese cuisine. However, it was the Arab invasion and their long occupation that left them with much of their culinary legacy. In 711, Arab forces, in their zeal to spread the faith of Islam, crossed from Ceuta, the nearest point from North Africa across the Straits of Gibraltar, to the coast of Southern Iberia. Sephardic Jews who had lived in the Iberian Peninsula since pre-Roman times, freed from persecution by the Visigoths, generally welcomed the CHAPTER 1Origins of Macaense Cuisine

16Arab invaders, though Islamic law placed restrictions upon them. The conquerors brought with them their faith, which was embraced by many, but the Arab Muslims tolerated both the Christian and Jewish religions. The use of saffron, though known and used by the Romans, was reintroduced to Portugal and Spain by the Arabs. The rich desserts using many eggs were also brought in by them. The Arabs also introduced oranges, lemons, almonds, figs, grapes, sugar cane, and many others.… all medieval European cui-sine was heavily indebted to the Arabs, but in the Iberian Peninsula, the influence was much more direct. Portuguese is full of Arabic words, from beringela for eggplant to açafrão for saffron, laranja for orange, limão for lemon, arroz for rice, amêndoa for almond, espinafre for spinach, and açúcar for sugar. The sugar and rice cultivated in the southern province of Algarve were another Arabic im-port.2There are over a hundred words in the Portuguese language that are of Arabic origin: algodão (cotton), almofada (pillow), azulejo (glazed tile), garrafa (bottle), sofá (sofa), and xarope (syrup) are only a few examples. The cuisine of the Portuguese and the Spanish are very much influenced by the Arabs. It was during the era of Reconquista that Spain and Portugal emerged as two separate countries. Portugal became 2 Krondl, Michael, The Taste of Conquest: The Rise and Fall of the Three Great Cities of Spice, 119.independent in 1143 and it took them over a hundred years to drive the Moors out of Algarve, which was captured in 1249, ending the Reconquista for the Portuguese. By 1252, only Granada remained under Muslim rule that would take 243 years more to be recaptured. As if to seal their victory and reinforce their position from future attack, in 1415 the Portuguese crossed over the same land protrusions between southern Iberia and North Africa, which Plato referred to as the Pillars of Hercules, to conquer Ceuta on the northern tip of Africa. The Jewish influence on the Portuguese populace should not be discounted. Anti-Semitism spread gradually from Spain to Portugal within the first half of the fifteenth century. Prior to this time, the Jews had lived in Portugal with relative freedom compared with the rest of Europe. The 1492 Alhambra Decree by Ferdinand II and Isabella of Spain ordered the expulsion of Jews unless they converted to Catholicism. Tens of thousands emigrated to Portugal, Italy, North Africa, and the Ottoman Empire. In December 1496, Dom Manuel I, King of Portugal, agreed to Ferdinand of Spain’s forcible demand that all Jews and Muslims who would not renounce their faith and convert to Catholicism be expelled from Portugal. Though the orders against the Muslims were rescinded through fear of reprisals against Christians in North Africa, pressure from Spain and the patrons of the Inquisition, the Dominicans, forced the Portuguese king to order tens of thousands of Jews to gather in Lisbon and be baptized by force or leave the country. Those “technically converted” were to be known

17m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nas novos Cristãos or “New Christians.” Many baptized or otherwise retreated to the mountains of northern Portugal. The Jews of the Iberian Peninsula, that is, Portugal and Spain, are known as Sephardic Jews. Historically they are known to be the Jews in the land of Sepharad, or Sefarad, a Hebrew name for ancient Spain. Sephardic Jewish customs in the cleaning and preparation of food is evident in Portuguese cooking as is the anti-Semitic use of pork, ham, and pork sausages in Portuguese shellfish dishes like Amêjoas na Cataplana and Porco à Alentejana. This was said to be the test to novos Cristãos, confirming their true conversion to Christianity. Though shellfish was also one of the barred ingredients, it was pork that remained forbidden and denounced. Arrufadas de Coimbra, unleavened sweet bread with cinnamon of Jewish influence is popular in many pastry shops. Turmeric, cumin, cinnamon, parsley, cilantro, and mint, to name a few, are common in Sephardic cuisine and very much used in the recipes of Portuguese cooking.This is the background of a people that set forth to discover new lands, spread the Christian faith, seek gold and other treasures, but driven by their quest for spices. Sailors and fidalgos alike sailed from Portugal under the spell of the riches they hoped to return with. “You have to wonder how many of those first sailors risked life and limb…” to sail on those voyages, remarked Michael Krondl who reiterated an example given to him that “…Portuguese kings could never afford to pay their sailors a decent wage, so instead of an adequate salary they got to fill… boxes with spice.”3 Caixas de liberdade (liberty boxes), as they were called when filled with spices such as pepper and cinnamon “free of duty or freight charges,” could be worth a sailor’s wages for several years, which “at least begins to explain why someone would endure the hardships involved in the passage to India.”4 These journeys around the coast of Africa to India, Malacca, China, and Japan were to enrich not only the tables of the Portuguese at home but bring about the evolution of a fusion cuisine in the lands in which they settled away from home.The food rations in the small ships (naus) that carried the Portuguese on their journeys consisted of biscuits, wine, vinegar and garlic preserved pork (vinha d’alhos), oil, and water. It was no wonder that the crew on many of the journeys suffered from diseases such as scurvy, with others not completing the voyages at all. In later years the journeys were more frequent, the ships larger, and along with the bland sea rations of the sailors from West to East went a multitude of fruits and vegetables that would change the cooking of the Indian Sub-continent and Southeast Asia. Pineapples, guavas, peanuts, potatoes, tomatoes, chilies are but some of those introduced from South America via the Portuguese. On their return voyages from East to West would come the coveted spices, ginger, and later tea. Bananas, indigenous to tropical Asia were brought to Brazil and South America 3 Krondl, The Taste of Conquest, 139.4 Ibid.

18by the Portuguese from West Africa, the Guinean name being banema. It is probable that the Portuguese first discovered them in India, then brought them to Africa. Rice, though introduced to the Portuguese by the Arabs, became even more popular in the years following the Portuguese search and determination to control the nerve of the spice trade.Portuguese country cuisine, probably better referred to as the diet of that nation then, depended very much on regional, social, and economic factors. Portugal was a small and poor country, commerce of which depended largely on the sea, and from there also came much of its food. Meat was usually available to the aristocracy and the rich whereas the peasants consumed the less desirable parts of the animals like the feet, the ears, and the entrails. Many of the traditional recipes used a variety of vegetables, potatoes, and bread cooked with less expensive parts of meat products. Traditional Portuguese Cooking, a cookbook also published in English with Portuguese traditional recipes, well illustrates this — belly of goat or sheep for Maranhos, stuffed pig’s belly for Bucho Recheado, sheep’s head for Cabeças de Carneiro no Forno, pig’s ear and tail in Orelha e Rabo de Porco de Coentrada, etc.5 These dishes may not be found in restaurants and are not representative of cooking in the suburban households but they are certainly dishes those of the countryside would eat. 5 Modesto, Maria de Lourdes, Traditional Portuguese Cooking.On their early voyages to Africa, from the coast of Guinea to Angola and Mozambique, the Portuguese established settlements and later colonies where they left the base of their culinary legacy. They intermingled with the indigenous people, both learning to appreciate one another’s tastes, cooking methods, and ingredients, leading to variations in their cuisine. Okra (quiabo or gumbo) of West African origin was brought to Brazil, later spreading to the West Indies, then Louisiana, to become gumbo in Creole cooking; yet, it never became part of continental Portuguese cuisine. Made with shrimp, chili flakes, and onions, it became one of the favorites of Guinea-Bissau according to Cherie Hamilton in her Cuisines of Portuguese Encounters, which contains recipes from the entire Portuguese-speaking world. Dishes like Galinha Africana (African Chicken) came later, after the turn of the twentieth century, with the Portuguese who lived in East Africa then transferred or moved to Macau. However, it is India and Southeast Asia, particularly the Malay Peninsula, where the major influence came from. “All of these former colonies and possessions have a culinary legacy that stems from those early and centuries-long encounters.”6 Beyond Africa the Portuguese crossed the Indian Ocean to discover India, then the Malay Peninsula, the Moluccas and beyond, to China and Japan. In their small ships that made these long journeys, the men stored 6 Hamilton, Cherie Y., Cuisines of Portuguese Encounters, 9.

19m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o ntheir provisions from far away Portugal. The vinha d’alhos stored in Portuguese ships for their sailors is often identified with the origins of the fiery Vindaloo curries of Goa and India. In actual fact, vinha d’alhos in the early years of the Portuguese colonization of Goa was not hot spicy at all. It was and still is a combination of wine, vinegar, garlic, and some spices used as a marinade to preserve pork that had to make its long journey from the shores of Portugal. Mainly from the influence of Indian and Malay cooking, together with the addition of spices, vinha d’alhos evolved to become the well-known Macaense dish called Porco Vinho d’Alho. The Portuguese voyages eventually led the way to the establishment of Macau, first as a Portuguese settlement, then a territory or colony under Portuguese rule that would last over four centuries. As the Portuguese established their outposts, they brought with them their national cookery that eventually mixed with the cuisine, ingredients, and diverse cooking methods of the territories they had discovered. Going back and forth they would literally pollinate the cuisine of these areas that would yield new fruit. Corn, peppers, and much more from South America, okra from Africa to Brazil and back again, rice to Europe, and bread (pão in Portuguese and mien pao in Cantonese) to China and Japan are but examples of this interchange. But then all of this is common knowledge today. However, little known outside the small world of the Macaense people is the fusion cuisine of Macau and how it has evolved through the centuries.Before the arrival of the Portuguese, Macau was a tiny insignificant peninsula at the mouth of the Pearl River, South of Guangdong (Kwangtung) Province and the city of Guangzhou (Canton), its provincial capital, on the China coast. Hardly a village, Macau was inhabited by a few migrant fishermen from Fujian (Fukien) and some local farmers. When the Guangdong authorities permitted the Portuguese to settle in 1557, the population quickly grew. Macau was very small, almost isolated from the other Chinese villages and towns along the Pearl River Delta. The Portuguese were foreign in every way to the Chinese. As they settled into the southern half of this tiny peninsula, the Chinese interacted with them only for trade. Initially, the Portuguese did farm some land in Xiangshan (Heungshan), just north of the isthmus that joined Macau to the mainland. In course of time, however, this prudent measure [farming by the Portuguese] was neglected, the rural district abandoned, and the colony [Macau] placed on a most impolite dependence upon the Chinese for provisions — a fatal reliance which now left the colony at the mercy of the mandarins. At a mere beck of theirs, the colonists could now be reduced, alas, to submission or starvation… At the isthmus between the peninsula of Macao and the mainland, the Chinese then constructed a barrier-wall with a gate, where a mandarin with a squad of soldiers debarred foreigners from

20the mainland except such as the mandarin furnished with a passport.The barrier was raised in 1573 evidently as a delimitation of frontier, as well as to control the provisioning of the colony… 7This situation was different from any of the settlements by the Portuguese. Food, one of the essentials of life, had to be imported, even if only across the barrier gate from the mainland. As opposed to Goa and Malacca, for example, there was no local cuisine as such for the newcomers. All things related to cooking, including utensils and the cuisine itself, were imported — brought in from outside.Cuisine, like the people of Macau, was isolated until the establishment of nearby Hong Kong in 1842. Until then, the Portuguese men moved in and out of Macau, but their Asian or Eurasian women and children were there to stay. As a peninsula, Macau’s only physical attachment was to the Chinese mainland, which was controlled by the barrier gate. The Chinese had no interest in the local Macaense cuisine as such, though the ingredients and produce introduced by the Portuguese were eventually adapted as part of Chinese cooking. Peanuts, from which they made peanut oil, sweet potatoes (fan su in Cantonese), and tomatoes (fan keh in Cantonese), for example, were introduced by the Westerners. The Cantonese word fan means foreign as in Westerner. Another example is sai yeung choi, meaning watercress, 7 Montalto de Jesus, C. A., Historic Macau, 40–41.which literally means Western Ocean (or Portuguese) vegetable. The women who accompanied the Portuguese men to Macau were the initiators of a fusion cuisine in this settlement, but the fare itself was almost always based on Portuguese cookery, conveyed from their male Portuguese companions. The origins of Macaense cuisine evolved from foods and cooking methods “brought in by female slaves from Africa, women from Goa, the Nyonya8 of Malacca, the kimono-clad women of Japan, and the local Chinese women, some of whom were Muitsais.”9 With them came their cooking utensils, their food, and the pidgin Portuguese they spoke. The Goans brought their “Catholic”-influenced Hindu dishes whilst the Nhonhas, the Malay women from Malacca, brought with them the earlier versions of dishes like Porco Balichão Tamarindo com Arroz Carregado, Bredo raba-raba, Sopa de Lacassá, Bagi, and Ladu. Nhonhas or Peranakan Chinese (Straits-born Chinese) are descendants of early Chinese migrants who settled in Penang, Malacca, Indonesia, and Singapore who inter-married with local Malays. Their cuisine probably had the greatest influence on the food of early Macau. In Macau, they eventually added local ingredients and produce available to them. 8 Nyonya or Nhonha (Nhonhonha in plural) in Maquista Patuá (the patois of Macau): Young woman, single or married. The term is also used in Malacca to mean young Malay women of Chinese ethnicity, with Nyonya food meaning food of Chinese origin. 9 Muitsai: Young Chinese bondservant, usually female, hired or enslaved from childhood for domestic service usually for an indefinite term. Jorge da Silva, António M., Macaenses — The Portuguese in China, 20.

21m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nAs local Chinese ingredients entered into the picture it was inevitable that their cooking style and utensils entered the Macaense kitchen and their cuisine followed suit. These women from diverse ethnic groups became, over the years, the mothers of the Macaense, the female antecedents of the Portuguese settlers of Macau. Portuguese women from continental Portugal were initially unable to survive the long journeys to Asia; the small naus10 on the whole carried only men. Few women, if any at all, were on board the ships that carried the men to the East as most who made the journey in those days did not survive. Those who went in the years of discovery were orfãs del Rei (orphans of the King) who, at the expense of the Crown, were “provided with dowries in the form of minor government posts for anybody who would marry them.”11 Yet even those who survived the journey did not readily find Portuguese husbands. The majority of the men preferred to live with their slaves and concubines; others married Indian, Asian, or Eurasian women.1210 Naus: Three or four-masted sailing ships developed by the Genoese in the fifteenth century, which the Portu-guese and the Spanish used for ocean travel in the early voyages of discovery.11 Boxer, Charles Ralph, Four Centuries of Portuguese Expan-sion, 58.12 Jorge da Silva, Macaenses, 15–16.For local women, it was Portuguese men they had to please. Unused to local food, the men imparted whatever knowledge they had of Portuguese cuisine that served as the basis of the food they ate at home. The local women in turn added their ingredients and method of cooking that soon evolved into the fusion cuisine they cooked, then passed along following their settlement in Macau. In other words, the recipes and the cuisine of the Macaense evolved over the years mainly from Portuguese recipes with the interaction of local cuisines of Indian and Asian communities in which the Portuguese settled. Local ingredients and cooking methods from these eastern settlements were added to the cuisine that the Portuguese introduced. These included many fruits and vegetables found in the newly discovered lands of the Americas that were brought back to Europe by the Spaniards, and were then introduced to India and Asia by the Portuguese. Tomatoes, potatoes, peanuts, peppers, including chili peppers, were but a few of the new vegetables that were introduced to the East and from them came the spices the Portuguese discoverers sought after — cloves, nutmeg, peppercorns, and cinnamon. Spices were readily available in Southeast Asia and they were the major incentives for the Portuguese voyages of discovery. Pepper, cinnamon, and powdered ginger were the main imports to Europe in the fifteenth century, but pepper in particular was the most sought after and the most expensive in Europe. Though the Indians and the Malays used pepper in their

22cuisine before the arrival of the Portuguese, their merchants who procured the spice caused it to be less affordable to the underprivileged. The Indians in the south, for example, used both peppercorns (piper nigrum) and the finger-long hot-sweet pepper (piper longum) in their food preparation. The long pepper is not to be confused with the capsicum varieties of chilies from South America. Another species is the Javanese long pepper (piper retrofractum), a native of Java and Indonesia. The introduction of the South American chilies (capiscum annuum), of which there were many varieties, changed not only the cuisine of India, but also would quickly spread across Southeast Asia. The chilies were easier to grow, looked like the long hot-sweet peppers the Indians and the Southeast Asians were used to, and were easier to store and not prone to mold. Important also is that they were affordable, soon to be called by the Portuguese in Goa pimento dos pobres13 — pepper of the poor. The chili was the most used spice by the Indian and Malay women, accompanying the Portuguese to Macau and was closely associated with its use in stewing vegetables or meat in what was later to be known as curry. It is interesting to note that curry was not one of the main dishes brought in by the women from Goa and Malacca initially. Turmeric, the color and taste associated with curry, was one of the early ingredients that they did bring in. Curry, as we know it today, is consid-ered by some to be a British creation. 13 Krondl, The Taste of Conquest, 173.Before the British settled in India, each region in India had its own delicacies that were not collectively called curries. The Parsees of western India had their Persian-influenced Dhansak, the Gujaratis their Thali and Khichdi, and so on. It was the British and the Anglo-Indians14 who brought about the “eclectic approach to Indian cookery [creating] a repertoire of dishes that brought together in one kitchen influences ranging from all over the subcontinent; they also transported this cuisine around India. By the middle of the nineteenth century, British influence could be felt from the southern tip of Ceylon, to the Northwest Frontier with Afghanistan…”15 The term curry was Anglicised from the Tamil word kari, which the Portuguese called caril. In his book Tony Lopes brazenly claims that the Macaense “taste for curried delicacies came from Goa and not from Malaysia and not even from Indonesia as trivially claimed by a dissenter. Effectively if we analyze the respective recipes we will not find any Malay ingredients. As such the only conclusion we can come to is to ‘wash our mouths of [from] Malay tastes’…”16 Turmeric (curcuma in Portuguese, though some Macaenses have used the term curcumino), a native of Southeast Asia, is a rhizome of the ginger family. Used in 14 Anglo-Indian: Initially referring to an English citizen living in India and later taken to mean a person of mixed English and Indian ancestry.15 Collingham, Lizzie, Curry: A Taste of Cooks and Conquerors, 121.16 Lopes, António “Tony” Vicente, Receitas da Cozinha Macaense, 130.

23m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nrhizome form or as a bright yellow powder, it is used throughout Southeast Asia to enhance the flavor and color of multiple dishes as well as for medicinal purposes. In medieval Europe, it was used as an inexpensive substitute for saffron and was often known as Indian saffron. In many old Macaense recipes, it was incorrectly called assafrão, or in Maquista, saffrung, when the term should have been curcuma or açafrão da India. It is more than likely the latter term was shortened to and, in the local creole, pronounced saffrung. That golden powder was brought to Macau by the Indo-Malay and widely used in Macaense cooking. Chinese cuisine adopted it as the “yellow ginger powder” — wong-keung fun.Another important aspect of the cuisine that the Goan and Malay women brought with them is the way they prepared sauces as either a liquid dressing mixed from ingredients or with the ingredients being fermented. The Chinese used fermented soybeans steeped in salty brine to produce soy sauce, which became an essential ingredient to many Macaense dishes. Another major ingredient in Macaense cuisine is a sauce known as balichão, made from tiny shrimps mixed with spices and brandy or other alcohol. This ingredient brought in by the Nyonhas as belacan was probably of Indonesian origin, which they call terasi. This fermented shrimp paste was, and still is, popular throughout Southeast Asia. However, many families in Macau used Portuguese brandy to prepare this shrimp paste, which would in effect prevent fermentation, but it aged the paste or sauce nicely. Another important ingredient they brought in was tamarind (tamarindus indica), the dried fruits of a leguminous tree indigenous to Africa. Tamarind is a name derived from tamar hindi in Arabic, meaning “Indian date.” Its pod-like fruit is used in much of the cuisine of Southeast Asia. Tamarind was introduced to South America by the Portuguese, and via India to Macau. These two ingredients, as discussed in other chapters, are likely to disappear from Macaense cuisine in the not too distant future.The Portuguese first settled in Goa, which was captured in 1510, then Malacca in 1511. They married the Christianized local women or cohabited with them. The Portuguese could only marry Christian women. “…[I]t was the casados, initially men from continental Portugal who married local women from the overseas territories in which they settled, or those who later married local Chinese women that engendered the Macaense community. They were the mainstay of the Portuguese in China and not those who trickled in from the home country in the centuries the Portuguese occupied Macau.”17 The married men, casados, adopted the local customs and, as their partners, also imparted their Portuguese influence on the women. However, their children, then called mistiços, were brought up by their mothers in accordance with the mothers’ traditions. Hence, rice replaced bread with the extensive use of gravies in the family meal. In Goa 17 Jorge da Silva, Macaenses, 51.

24particularly, the Portuguese influenced the locals in the use of more meat, from pigs and cows alike, altering their religious bias. Though rice was the preferred carbohydrate at home and the Indians made unleavened bread using rice flour as the rising agent as yeast was unattainable, the Portuguese eventually taught their wives how to bake leavened bread. The use of eggs, sugar, and milk by the Moors following their invasion of the Iberian Peninsula in 711 were in turn brought to India by the Portuguese for their pastries and sweets. Coconut milk, which substituted dairy milk, and jagra or jaggery,18 a sugar from the sap of palm trees, contributed to the adaptation of Bebinca de Leite as a variety of Portuguese dessert. A recipe from Lizzie Collingham’s book, which follows, illustrates how Bebinca was made in Goa, then “travelled with the Portuguese to Malaya and from there to the Philippines and… continued its extraordinary journey to Hawaii.”19 The path of the journey, of course, included Macau. Still popular in the Macaense community, the recipes are essentially the same with variations from family to family.BEBINCA Lizzie Collingham20This is the Goan pancake-layer cake adapted from a Portuguese recipe that used wheat flour and milk. It is 18 It is “a coarse brown sugar made from the sap of various palms”; Yule, Henry and A. C. Burnell, The Concise Hobson-Jobson: An Anglo-Indian Dictionary, 216.19 Collingham, Curry, 62.20 Collingham, Curry, 76, 77.laborious to make but the effect of the layered cake is striking. It should really be made over a fire fueled with coconut husks but a modern grill is a sufficiently effective substitute. (Serves 10 to 15)INGREDIENTS2 1/5 lb caster sugar (or jaggery if you can get it)3 cups coconut milk20 egg yolks¼ lb rice flour½ tsp grated nutmeg1 tsp cardamom essence (or about ⅝ tsp of cardamom powder)1 cup melted butterMETHODMix the caster sugar with the coconut milk until it is dissolved.Beat the egg yolks until creamy and mix the flour into them thoroughly until the mixture is smooth.Add the egg yolks until creamy and mix the flour to the mixture of coconut milk and sugar, along with the nutmeg and cardamom.Heat the grill. Take a deep pan, about 4 ¾ inches in diameter, and put a tablespoon of melted butter in it. Place it under the grill. When it is hot take it out and pour enough batter into the pan to cover the bottom to the depth of about ⅝ inch. Put under the grill for about 2 minutes and let it cook until it is deep brown in color.Remove from the grill, put a dessertspoon of melted butter over the cooked layer, and heat under the grill. Then pour over enough batter to cover the first layer, to the depth of

25m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nabout ¼ inch. Repeat this process until all the batter and melted butter has been used up. Make sure each layer of batter is the same thickness. The final layer should be of melted butter.When cool, turn out on to a dish, keeping the first layer face down. Decorate with a few slivers of toasted almonds. Cut into slices and serve.Bebinga de Leite*Example of two recipes for Macaense Bebinga de Leite by Palmyra Yvanovich and her daughter Theresa Yvanovich da LuzNote the tongue-in-cheek remark by Theresa that her recipe is “easier, less expensive[,] less trouble, just as good?!?”Courtesy: Carlos and Karen da Luz collection* Bebinga de Leite is another spelling for Bebinca de Leite.

26Cooking was simple in those days and Macaense recipes were very basic and uncomplicated. The addition of spices and local ingredients enhanced their tastes and ginger, in particular, became the base of many dishes. As a variety of fruits and vegetables were introduced by the Portuguese to Asia, they were gradually added to the dishes, enhancing their complexity in both taste and preparation. It was from the Portuguese settlements and the people who lived and worked there that the initial settlers of Macau came from. Their indigenous cooking naturally followed. The women who intermixed with the Portuguese pioneers who settled along the coast of Africa, India, the Malay Peninsula, then Macau and Japan must be credited with the fusion of tastes and cooking methods that have evolved to last for over four centuries. Macaense fusion cuisine has a culinary uniqueness, and the evolution will continue into the future, though the Macaense, following their diaspora, have now spread all over the world. Here we are not talking about fine cuisine created for the elite, but of comfort food and home cooking for everybody from those settlements.In summary, Macaense cuisine is a fusion of ingredients and cooking methods adopted from the East and the West, which has developed into the soul food of the Portuguese settlers and their descendants living in Macau and, three centuries later, Hong Kong and Shanghai. Most dishes are of Portuguese origin that have been adapted and modified over the centuries as the Portuguese moved from Africa to India, then Malacca to Macau. Essentially it is cuisine that followed the path of the colonizers on their journey from West to East. Settled on Chinese shores since the mid-1500s, it is inevitable that Chinese ingredients and cooking methods played the largest part in its development. Since the beginning of the twentieth century, Chinese-influenced cuisine, including dishes that are entirely Chinese, became part of the food on tables of Macaense families. Inadvertently the British too played a part in the development of this cuisine. Following the colonization of nearby Hong Kong in 1841, many Portuguese from Macau spread to its neighbor. There, a touch of British flair was added to the uniqueness of the cuisine brought in by the immigrants from Macau. Derived from the use of Worcestershire sauce, Coleman’s mustard, sherry wine as opposed to Portuguese Port, and minced meat used in British Cottage Pie, for example, came Minchi, often served as part of Tiffin.21 In Macaense cuisine, the “British touch” was the only European influence, other than Portuguese, that entered the picture before the twentieth century. Though sherry is of Spanish origin, the British and the Macaense community that lived in Hong Kong used it as a substitute for Port wine as Port wine was then difficult to find locally or the better quality ones too expensive to be used for cooking.21 Tiffin: Anglo-Indian, meaning luncheon.

CHAPTER 2Macaense Cuisine

29m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nAs more Chinese moved into Macau, so the settlers learned about their food, their ingredients, and their method of cooking. The Japan trade and its eventual collapse brought Japanese women and their offspring to join the Indo-Malay women and their children. However, little Japanese influence is evident in Macaense cuisine. As the Chinese began to be Christianized, so the Portuguese men and the sons of the settlers eventually married them and with that came their customs, their culture, and their cuisine. Initially the Portuguese were looked upon as barbarians by the Chinese, and their descendants, the Macaenses, no better.The men and the women sit together one with the other and the Negro slaves serve them food that is brought to the mouth with silver forks. They always eat the roasts first and they sit, with their right hands extended beneath a iok (pillow) without using them. They call this tch’ok-sau (immobile hand).When they eat mixed food they unfailingly use the left hand taking the food with their fingers. First they break several raw chicken eggs and suck them. After, they carve the roasts and use a white cloth to clean themselves, then setting it aside to change for a new one. They also eat cakes and pastries and every seven days kill an ox once and during [the following] five days eat meat. They fast two days, do not eat cow either meat, or pork, without them being, however, forbidden to eat shrimps and vegetables. They throw their food leftovers in a container similar to a trough. The slaves, whether men or women, then take it with their hand to eat.22This must have been very strange and distasteful to the Chinese as even the poorest and lowest on their social scale ate with chopsticks and not their fingers. Eating 22 Teixeira, Fr. Manuel, Macau no Séc. XVIII, 455.CHAPTER 2Macaense Cuisine

30with the hands was an Indian custom that the Indo-Malay wives of the Portuguese brought with them. Very few Portuguese women emigrated to Asia and most casados married either Indian women who had converted to Christianity, or mistiços born to a Portuguese father and an Indian mother… living in intimacy with the locals, the men picked up many Indian habits and customs…As Linschoten observed, the women preserved their preference for rice over bread, and for eating with their hands rather than a spoon.23Cultured as the Chinese looked upon their own customs from the examples portrayed above, the Europeans also retorted their point of view regarding Chinese dining etiquette. “In Europe it is rude to bring the plate to the mouth, in China they engulf the rice from the bowl which they set between their teeth.”24 Also, “[i]n Europe, it would be disgusting and uncivilized that a guest would contemplate to introduce his fork at the mouth of somebody next to him any morsel of food; in China it is the height of elegance, of politeness, to offer one next to you at the tips of well-licked chopsticks, a little piece of any tidbit!”25 That was the continental Portuguese point of view, not the Macaense, 23 Collingham, Curry, 58.24 Pereira, João F. Marques, Ta-Ssi-Yang-Kuo, Series 1, vols. I and II, 298.25 Ibid.who felt quite comfortable among the Chinese and to adopt their customs when eating Chinese food.The advent of the Portuguese in China introduced much the same produce they did to India and Malaya. Before the Portuguese arrived, the Chinese did not cook with peanut oil; neither did they have sweet potatoes, chilies, tomatoes, and many of the fruits and vegetables of South American origin. The interchange of culture brought about the crossroads and transformation of cuisine to both East and West. As the Portuguese settlers and their families integrated with the Chinese over the years, Macaense cookery not only took on Chinese ingredients, utensils, and cooking method, but even pure Chinese dishes with no Portuguese or other outside influence entered the Macaense household. A few recipes of Chinese origin are included in this book following the Macaense recipes. Rice became the essential adjunct to almost all Macaense dishes, with soy sauce as one of the main ingredients. Cozido, a Portuguese meat and vegetable stew, took on a Chinese semblance with the addition of ingredients such as Chinese sausages (lap cheong) and Chinese cured pork (lap yuk). Cooked in a tacho, which in Portuguese means a pan or a pot for cooking in, it naturally caught on as the name for the dish itself in Macau. Tacho, also known as Chau-chau Pele, with its Chinese ingredients, added to its departure from the Portuguese dish, yet its roots are sustained. Chau in Cantonese means to stir-fry or to sauté, usually of several

31m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o ningredients. Chau-chau is Maquista using a reduplication of the word chau to convey plurality, to stress or intensify the meaning of a word. The addition of pork rind or pork skin (skin translates to pele in Portuguese) to this dish as one of its main and very visible ingredients and the term chau-chau (to stir fry in Maquista) make the dish distinctive. It has become one of the most popular dishes in the repertoire of Macaense cuisine.Almost all Macaense recipes that originated in Macau, recorded after the twentieth century and with the exception of desserts, cakes, and sweets, have Chinese ingredients. Though many are based on traditional Portuguese cooking and some introduced by the Malays and Goans earlier, Chinese influence has since dominated Macaense cuisine and changed the earlier recipes. Soy sauce replacing the use of salt, Chinese sausages supplanting Portuguese chouriço, and the prominence of rice vinegar in many recipes attest to this. Bacalhau has not been replaced by hám yue (Chinese salted fish) but kai lan (Chinese kale) leaves have been used to make Caldo Verde as the large leafed couve galega (literally “Galician cabbage” or Portuguese kale), brassica oleracea acephala, is not and has never been available in Macau or Hong Kong. That is not to say that regular cabbage has never been used, as there are recipes that use “small cabbage,” stating quite clearly “Do not ‘overboil’ the cabbage as it will spoil the colour.”26 Couve in Portuguese does mean 26 From a collection of hand-typed recipes dating circa 1934, which includes recipes from Delmira Alvares, Guilhermina “Guilly” de Figueiredo, Hermina Figueiredo, and others.cabbage, but those who are not aware of the difference between couve galega and the ordinary cabbage found in supermarkets can mistakenly use that instead of the large, thick, grey-green, stiff cabbage leaves used in a true Portuguese Caldo Verde. As a matter of interest, collard greens, which are always available in American supermarkets, is the best substitute. Goa and Malacca have longstanding influences in Macaense cooking. The use of coconut in Portuguese sweets and cookies comes from that part of the world, whereas the use of natas (dairy cream) and empadinhas (small pies) is very Portuguese. Being close to the sea, all Portuguese love fish and shellfish, though their methods of preparation and ingredients may be different. The basis of many Macaense recipes are derived from traditional food from Portugal. Outside of Portugal, and this includes Azores and Madeira, the influence of Portuguese cuisine following the diaspora from Macau and since the handover has declined in Macau and is now stronger in Brazil. Though Brazilian cuisine is not the subject of this book, it is worth mentioning that some dishes are prepared differently from those in Portugal. Feijoada, the traditional bean stew, is made somewhat differently in Portugal, Brazil, and Macau, with the Brazilians using black beans, the Macaenses red kidney beans, and white kidney or lima beans being the norm in Portugal. Many think of Macaense cuisine only as a combination or fusion of Portuguese, Chinese, and Malay cooking, not realizing that it also includes dishes that are purely

32Portuguese. As the last and longest time-sustained colony of the now extinct Portuguese empire, Macau held closely to the custom, traditions, and cuisine of its then Mãe Pátria (mother country). Macaenses now spread all over the world still look upon their cuisine first and foremost as based on Portuguese roots.The recipes of households in Macau often differ from those in Hong Kong and Shanghai. The availability of ingredients varied, as did the greater influence of Portuguese cuisine. The proximity to Hong Kong, with some of the community moving to settle there in the mid-1800s, brought about some British influence as well. As mentioned in the last chapter, Minchi, Cheese Toast, and the use of Coleman’s Mustard and Worcestershire (Lea & Perrins) sauce in several other dishes are examples of such. Cooking of the Macaense diaspora, those who emigrated en masse, from the China coast to the western world, has also changed both the methods and ingredients used. Portuguese olive oil, bacalhau in the form of dried salted cod, and Portuguese wines and brandy are, though available, harder to find in Portuguese stores in the San Francisco Bay Area. Quantities of several ingredients are also affected as the eggs and vegetables are larger than those used in Asia before the 1960s. These changes affect the written recipes passed down through the generations that are closely guarded by some, considered “authentic” by others, but seen as necessary by many to adjust or modify to resemble the tastes they remember. Even the eggs, meat, tomatoes, and other ingredients taste different to those in yesteryears.Macaense cooking uses both Portuguese and Chinese cooking methods, which differ greatly. Depending on which recipe is being followed, the techniques and ingredients are different. Portuguese cooking in Macau is based mainly on the country-style cuisine of Portugal. The pots and pans used were very basic compared to what is available in the United States today. Here, deep pots, heavy cast-iron pans, and even the barbecue grill are used for most of the cooking. A large wooden spoon for stirring and tongs for the grille are part of the basic essentials. Except for desserts and cakes, the oven was rarely used in Macau before the mid-1960s but has now become an essential appliance. Chinese cooking utilizes a large wok with cover and metal spatula for most stir-fried dishes, with the addition of a ladle and copper wire strainer for deep-frying. Few Macaense dishes use these except for Chau Fahn, which is essentially Chinese. Steamers used for many Chinese dishes are not used in Macaense cooking. Except for rice, steamed vegetables, and occasionally fish, few dishes are steamed. Before the advent of the electric rice cooker, rice was boiled in a deep pot and left to steam over low heat after the water was “cooked off” and evaporated. The use of the stovetop is often being replaced by baking in the oven, though these are very rarely used in Chinese cooking, yet quite often in Portuguese and other European dishes.

33m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nLittle is mentioned about the integration of Portuguese and Japanese cuisine, dating from the sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries when the Portuguese controlled the Japan trade and settled in Nagasaki. The Christian missionaries brought to Nagasaki by the Portuguese also contributed much to this fusion cooking. Nanban dishes and confectionary passed down from those times have survived in Japan to the present day. As in other ports--of-call in India, Malacca, and Macau, fusion cuisine continued in Japan. Nanban-zuke, meaning “southern barbarian marinade,” was used in the marinating of fried fish in vinegar similar in concept to escabeche, with the addition of onions and hot chili peppers that the nanban-jin (southern barbarians) brought with them. One might ask why southern and not western barbarians? The Portuguese first landed in Japan’s southern island of Tanegashima, and so they were said to have come from the south. Zuke is associated with a spicy marinade in vinegar whereas, Tempura, also meaning to marinade, comes from the Portuguese word temperar — to season or to flavor. Bolos, Portuguese cakes, are called boros in Japanese; pão, meaning bread in Portuguese, is pan in Japanese and álcool, alcohol in Portuguese, is arukoru in Japanese. Nevertheless, the influence of Japanese cuisine did not play a big part in Macaense cooking. Other than Misó Cristan, few Japanese dishes were integrated though some will point out Tempura is another dish the Japanese exported. In this case only the Portuguese term temperar was adopted and used by the Japanese, but the dish never became a part of Macaense cuisine. The deep-frying of food used in Macaense cuisine is more Chinese than Japanese, and marinating with ingredients originating from the Portuguese word temperar was used by the Japanese but not uniquely a part of their cuisine.Many recipes, ingredients, and cooking terms in this book are in the Portuguese patois of Macau — Maquista. The meaning of those words and sometimes their origins are given in the notes just below the recipe titles. There is also a list of terms in Glossary of Terms. Many of the words in Maquista are based on archaic Portuguese and the lingua franca used by Portuguese sailors with little education during the Portuguese voyages of discovery. This lingua franca that developed and evolved at that time was also used by those who traded with the Portuguese and those they lived among in their overseas settlements. However, it was Malaccan Kristang or Papiá Cristão (speak Christian) that formed the basis evolving into Maquista patois.Maquista plays a large part in the names of the dishes dating back to the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, Malay and archaic Portuguese words being prevalent in that patois. Examples of recipes of Malaccan origin are Fula de Papaia (flower of papaya), Sopa de Lacassá used by the Catholic Macaense on days of abstinence, and Bebinca de Rábano, with bingka being a Malay word meaning a cake made of rice flour and rábano meaning turnip in Portuguese. Of

34Indo-Portuguese origin is Apabico, derived from the Tamil word apam, meaning thin cake, and bico, from grão de bico (chick pea or garbanzo bean in Portuguese) because of its shape. Not to be forgotten are the two Portuguese terms used for chicken in these recipes: galinha meaning hen and frango meaning a young chicken or cockerel. Why use a hen for Galinha Africana and a young cockerel for Arroz de Frango is possibly explained by the influence of continental Portuguese recipes becoming more popular in Macau after the 1950s. Before that, the term frango was rarely, and more than likely not, used, as in Macau all chicken were known as galinha. The influx of continental Portuguese and Macaense graduates returning from their studies in Portugal, as the world grew smaller, introduced the sophistication of that differentiation.Author of cookbooks and well known for her cooking in Macau is Maria Celestina de Mello e Senna and others, written about in Cecília Jorge’s first chapter of her book Macanese Cooking “All names and some se-crets,” are certainly worth reading. Graça Pacheco Jorge’s A Cozinha de Macau da Casa do Meu Avô, beautifully presented, though written in Portuguese, is also worthy of note. Those are the well-known names in Macau, but there are others also worth re-membering. A recipe or two from the pages of recipe notebooks of Vicência “Mui-mui” do Rosário and Filomena Romana “Minica” da Silva, contributed by Henrique Manhão, have been translated from Portuguese to English in the recipe section. Also included are recipes from Alice do Espírito Santo Pinto Marques collection, which her son António made available. These are but a few Macau recipes, but also included in this book are recipes from Hong Kong and Shanghai.A cookbook entitled Receitas da Cozinha Macaense was written by António “Tony” Vicente Lopes in Hong Kong and according to Bosco Correa, “the recipes were translated into Portuguese by two priests in Macau and first published by the Tipografia da Missão in 1977 with all profits from the sales going to Caritas Diocesana de Macau, and has since been reprinted”;27 though Tony must have inadvertently forgotten to credit many of the recipes in his book to the respective contributors; these recipes were taken from a collection of recipes by Delmira Alvares (HK), Idalia da Luz (HK/Macau), Guilhermina “Guilly” de Figueiredo (Shanghai), her sisters Eupharesis and Maria Figueiredo (Shanghai), and other friends. This photocopied selection of recipes was put together circa 1934 in Shanghai.Recipe books often leave out or do not pay attention to the history behind certain aspects of recipes passed down through generations. Until the turn of the twentieth century, few Macaense recipes were committed to paper. Word of mouth with few details was the method of passing on family recipes — mother to daughter and sometimes friend to friend, recipes with secret ingredients were often left out in the 27 Correa, J. Bosco, letter to the author, September 5, 2013.

35m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nlatter case. The preparation and cooking of particular dishes were seldom recorded — one was expected to know the basics. Most were also supposed to know how to pluck a chicken or de-feather a duck! This book brings together some food history, recipes, and step-by-step cooking guidelines, striving to preserve the tastes of home cooking from a people soon to fade into the historical past. Dinner at No. 1 Tak Shing Street, Kowloon1 1959Standing at back: Ah Tó (cook) Ah Um (head housemaid)Maria Alice dos Santos, Luiz Alberto Jorge da Silva, Celsita Maria Monteiro, Vasco Sales da SilvaMarie Silva-Netto, Manuel Guerreiro, Jenny Sales da Silva, Luis NeryAntónio M. Jorge da Silva collectionNo. 1 Tak Shing Street in Kowloon, Hong Kong, was where my mother, my younger brother, and I lived after WWII and until the early 1970s.

CHAPTER 3Influences on Macaense Cuisine

39m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nCHAPTER 3Influences on Macaense CuisineSo much history surrounds the cultural heritage in the food of Macau. The use of two or three languages in a single recipe and the fusion of ingredients, methods of preparation, and ways of cooking all reflect the multi-racial aspects of the Macaense people. The international repertoire integrated in their dishes over the centuries makes the cuisine unique. The evolution of their cuisine has been influenced by the many cultures they lived among in Asia, including the many refugees, Russians, and Jews, all of which added to the richness of their experiences and the many recipes they leave behind. However, another aspect also entered into the picture.Social standing or, simply put, class structure was part of the Macaense culture — who you were or which family you were from was fundamental. How much money you had was a consideration, but secondary to the heritage of individuals and whom they married. It was not uncommon for the elders of a Macaense family to ask, often in Maquista and behind the scenes, when a young stranger was introduced or was brought to the house: “Quim-sa filo (Whose son is he)?” What people ate, how they ate, and how the table was set for company could be seen as “telltale” signs of their heritage and social education. The same could be said of how people spoke, the manner in which they spoke, and if they spoke the language correctly. Chinese food and curries, for example, were seldom cooked at home. These would in general be enjoyed in a restaurant. The use of chopsticks in one’s home had been, at one time, frowned upon and the use of paper napkins, unheard of. All these came to pass a decade or more following World War II, but “quim-sa filo?” in many families still lives on.The final hundred years of Macaense stay in China has seen many changes in their cuisine. Greatly influenced by Chinese cooking, the lower cost and availability of their ingredients, and, to a large extent, the preference for the taste they have become accustomed to have changed the recipes.

40The diaspora to other countries in the western world was a further step in the evolution of Macaense cuisine. The following are examples of recipes, and even the way they were written, that have or will soon become defunct.The above scant recipe and method of preparation for Ade28 Cabidela was almost commonplace in the kitchens of the 1930s, but enough to put most people off in the western world of today. Some other 28 Adem, in Maquista, was formerly a more sophisticated way of spelling, later superseded by, Ade. See Batalha, Gra-ciete Nogeira, Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, 27.recipes are almost amusingly explicit in its preparation and even instructions on what to tell the butcher at the meat counter before purchasing. Assafrão29 in this recipe is turmeric and not saffron.29 The actual Portuguese spelling is açafrão, but it is often spelled assafrão in Macau. Açafrão will be used in this book.Duck Stewed in its Blood by Delmira Alvares, circa 1930

41m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nThe use of both English and Portuguese is quite common in many recipes. Weight measures such as cate in Portuguese (catty in English) were commonplace then in the marketplaces and street vendors in Macau. Meat and other products were weighed and sold by the khun (catty) and leung (tael). A tael is 1/16 of a catty and 1 catty is 1.3 pounds. Many recipes also used the price of ingredients in avos (cents) of Macau and Hong Kong, which makes it difficult to decipher the corresponding quantity in weight or volume. “A handful” was another measure used and gratefully discontinued, but the familiar “a pinch of” (pitada in Portuguese) is used to this day. An example of this is referred to in Tony Lopes’ recipe book — “ ... uma sapeca de maleguetas (tsin tsai = 1/10 de avo) ou uma mão de sal…”30 This translates in English to mean “a sapeca (Chinese brass coin with a hole in the center, also known as tsin-tsai that was then worth 1/10 of a cent) of chili peppers or a handful of salt…” The recipe below clearly shows the use of the price (1 avo or 1 cent) for whole and ground white pepper, and 30 Lopes, Receitas da Cozinha Macaense, Preface, 1.Lamb Head Soup by Guilhermina “Guilly” de Figueiredo, circa 1930

42notice how the ingredients are written in Portuguese and the instructions in English. The ingredients of this recipe were initially from Macau... as it was written in Portuguese and used the currency in Macau, the “avo,” instead of the “cent,” which was the currency of British Hong Kong.Shrimp Paste — Balichão by Inez Figueiredo, circa 1930

43m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nPortuguese desserts and cakes use a lot of eggs as is evident in many published recipes. It is not uncommon to see 8 to 10 eggs used and occasionally even 12 to 16, but seldom over 20. Macaense recipes usually follow those from their Mãe Pátria (mother country), but occasionally, perhaps eggs were smaller and cheaper, or the desire for richness became irresistible in Hong Kong, Macau, and Shanghai, one sees its use in abundance. This is not a criticism but perhaps more a recognition of physical differences or preferences in taste.Two Pudding Recipes by H. Sequeira, circa 1930

44The author’s maternal grandfather, José Vicente Jorge, was known in Macau as an epicurean who entertained only in his home. His dining table, seating twenty or more, was set in grand style. Wines, Portuguese olive oil, sardines, chouriço, and other ingredients were stored in a cool large room on the ground floor of his house and always available. Only fresh produce purchased on a daily basis from the market was used and personally selected by his cook. José Vicente Jorge sometimes created his own recipes that the cook had to prepare from his sparse notes, and he expected perfection. His wife, Matilde Pacheco Jorge, also enjoyed good food and generated her own recipes. The Dining Room of José Vicente Jorge’s House, circa early 1920sAntónio M. Jorge da Silva collection

45m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nOne of Matilde Pacheco Jorge’s recipes for Esmargal is compared with another from the 1930s by Macau-born Hermina Figueiredo. Peixe-esmargal is a tidbit enjoyed by the Macaense of yesteryear and possibly of Goan origin. The earlier recipe by Matilde Pacheco Jorge begins with fish that is salted in a bowl for three days, then vinegar added and dried under direct sunlight. The fish is then soaked in a spiced brandy and vinegar sauce-marinade with sliced onions for another fifteen to twenty days. The recipe by Hermina Figueiredo uses pre-salted fish, such as sardines, that are soaked in a marinade of spiced vinegar for two weeks. The concept is similar but the omission of brandy and sliced onions, and the use of sardines must make quite a difference to the Dinner at 20 Rua da Penha Macau — José Vicente Jorge’s House, circa early 1920sStanding: Campelo de Andrade, Americo Pacheco Jorge, Olga Pacheco, Jorge da Silva, Fernanda Saraiva Jorge, Câncio Pacheco Jorge, Matilde Pacheco Jorge, José Vicente Jorge, Júlio A. E. da Silva, Unknown, Laura Lobato, Dr. Juiz Pato? Unknown, Leolinda Trigo da Silva, Francisco Xavier da Silva… The others are all unknown.António M. Jorge da Silva collection

46taste. The difference in quantity of the spices also makes a difference. This variance in the use of brandy and sliced raw onions is also evident in many recipes for the preparation of balichão sauce. ESMARGAL Hermina FigueiredoINGREDIENTS1 bottle vinegar (pint?)3 oz tamarinho2 chilies, cut up1 tbsp açafrão [turmeric]½ tbsp pepper3 oz chopped fresh vinegar1 tbsp cumin powder1 oz chopped garlic 1 lb salted sardines or peixe serra [Spanish mackerel]METHOD Mix all the above ingredients together, put in pieces of fish in a jar in layers covering each layer with the ingredients well. Close the jar and keep in a cool place for two weeks.

47m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nFor one catty of fish: In a bowl, coat the fish in salt for 3 days. Rinse it with vinegar then put it in the sun to dry covered with a sieve cloth or net to keep the flies off.Grind the above ingredients to make a paste then coat the fish in a bowl with this mixture and leave for a period of 15 to 20 daysCumin 1 ½ tbsp Coriande 2 ½ tbsp Pepper to taste Whole Peppercorn 1 tbsp Garlic 1 head Ginger 1 piece Turmeric as needed for color Brandy 1 ½ Calix (Port glass) In households with several amahs, also called servants then and domestic help today, the shopping was usually done by the cook-amah or the male cook. The daily menu was first discussed between the cook and the lady of the house, then a list made for the meat, vegetables, and ingredients needed from the market. An estimate would be made for the shopping, money given to the amah or cook who would then do the shopping. When he or she returned from the market, a list showing the items purchased with the total amount spent would be presented to the lady of the house, who would then settle the account. In the majority of households, it was rare for the lady of the house to do the shopping or even the cooking. She would, however, often supervise the cooking, especially if it was a new recipe or when company was expected for dinner and special dishes made. The lady of the house, on the other hand, almost exclusively made cakes and desserts.Recipe by Matilde Pacheco Jorge, circa 1930Shopping List for Chau-chau Pele (Tacho), 1949Shopping list transcribed from accounting after shopping by Ah Lin (a servant in the household). The amount of 55.35 Hong Kong Dollars would afterward be reimbursed to Ah Lin.Courtesy: Gerald “Gerry” McDougall collectionTranslation of Matilde Pacheco Jorge’s Esmargal recipe

48Hong Kong CozidoCourtesy: Gerald “Gerry” McDougall collectionRecipes from the Past, 1927Note the use of three languages on the right-hand recipe: “Arroz” in Portuguese, “3 cups” and “B. Powder” in English, and “Mantiquilla” in Spanish. The measurement cate (Portuguese spelling) or catty (English spelling) is a Chinese weighing term khun in Cantonese.Leticia “Letty” Antunes wrote the recipes above.

49m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nCHAPTER 4Claims of Authenticity

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51m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nWhat is authentic Macaense cuisine? Originally it was fusion food brought in or created by the women who accompanied the Portuguese settlers to Macau and the Chinese women who came into association with the Macaense family. As discussed earlier, Portuguese food is the basis of most Macaense dishes, with the Asian spices and method of cooking added to it. This parallels the ethnicity and culture of the people. Authenticity in the other sense comes from those who claim their recipe is closer to the original taste and way the food was prepared.Many from the Macaense community claim they have the “real” (authentic) recipe for one dish or another, forgetting that “real” is only their interpretation of the tastes they remember, or passed down from their parents or grandparents, and what they were used to in their small world of the Portuguese in China — primarily Macau, Hong Kong, and Shanghai. The recipes from Macau of the 1900s and before had the benefit of imported ingredients, sausages, wines, and olive oil, from Portugal, whereas those of the community who settled in Hong Kong, for example, had to substitute whatever was available there. So Portuguese chouriço or linguiça (pork sausages), Port wine, and olive oil gave way to Chinese sausages, mai ching (rice wine), and peanut oil in many of their recipes. Port wine in particular has been substituted with sweet or cream sherry in most recipes as a cooking Port, such as Ruby Port, was often hard to find and more expensive than an average sherry.Most of the ingredients for Macaense cuisine can be found in local supermarkets, Chinese stores, and some specialty stores. This is not true for countries such as Portugal where lotus root and Chinese kale, for example, cannot be found. In fact those are not available in non-Chinese supermarkets either. When using old recipes even from the 1950s, the sizes of eggs and onions come to mind as being much larger today, which affect the quantities and their relation to other ingredients. Recipes nowadays CHAPTER 4Claims of Authenticity

52have not only taken that into account but have also evolved to baking some dishes rather than cooking them on the stovetop, adding wine, the complete omission of lard for health reasons (which greatly affects the taste of many dishes from the “old days”), using different soy sauces now available, etc., etc. The use of the barbecue (BBQ) in California for some Macaense cooking is often done by the author’s family in the summer for Galinha Africana, Curried Minchi Buns, Chili Prawns, Saté or Satay (not actually Macaense, but using balichão in the preparation of its sauce by some leans in that direction), and several other personal recipes evolved from Macaense cuisine.There is also a difference between Macau recipes and those of Hong Kong and other parts of the Orient where the Portuguese community settled. Except for her sweets and cakes, the recipes of the author’s mother are more representative of Macau food and the influence of continental Portuguese cuisine. Her cakes and desserts are, on the other hand, basically Portuguese. Her Macau dishes lean toward the use of Portuguese ingredients rather than Asian, but then purely Chinese dishes such as Porco Restrate (pork and lotus root) and kai-lan choi (Chinese kale) have entered into the menu. On the other hand, her use of garlic and olive oil in her Açorda and the amount of eggs used in her desserts, and Port wine and Portuguese brandy used in her cooking is very European Portuguese. Eastern spices and flavors combined with some Portuguese ingredients make the foods of Macau she cooked quite different.Gerry McDougall’s recipes that originate from his mother and his aunts who lived in Hong Kong are obviously a little different from Macau recipes. Both are delicious in their own way and please the palates of those who lived in different Portuguese communities in China. A collection of recipes given to me by J. Bosco Correa, a very good cook himself, includes those of well-known members of the Hong Kong and Shanghai Portuguese community, a few of which have been incorporated in this book. Family recipes were passed down from generation to generation, often not written down and considered a personal or family secret. Several “new recipes” that have come to be in the recent past can still be considered Macaense cuisine, as they are either a variation of a similar dish or even something quite different, using common ingredients associated with Macau food. One such recipe is a curry based on Porco Vinho d’Alho, which is only mildly chili hot. A pork curry is very rarely found in restaurants or even in family cooking, but a recipe such as this was asking to be written. One can consider this as an evolution of the original recipe, but in effect the recipes are quite different, yet retain a similar character.The first thoughts in writing recipes are “taste” and “flavor,” what one is trying to create. The next consideration is the base ingredient (chicken, beef, lamb, or some specific vegetables) and what spices or other ingredients to be used to achieve that end. The blending of spices and how much

53m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nto use is imperative as are the method of cooking and the cooking time. The order in which the spices are added will also greatly affect the end result. Many recipe books are written with “quick cooking time” as the main criteria. In the busy world of the average working person, this is most important, no doubt, but the subtlety of taste is certainly compromised. The preparation of food has to put into perspective the factor of time limitation due to necessity or just to get the chore over with as quickly as possible. Written recipes sometimes too often leave out the steps on how to get to the best end result. Not everyone is experienced enough to cook from recipes that list the ingredients, but then fail to guide on the method to achieve the desired taste. This is particularly true of ethnic food where those of other ethnic origins are not familiar with the method of cooking, the order in which the ingredients are cooked, and the timing over heat that are all so important to the taste. Personal taste is a subject that cannot be debated without prejudice. Other than too salty, too peppery, too spicy, and so on, there is the important factor of one’s memory of a taste experience, good or bad, that cannot be discounted. How does one convince another that “the way mother prepared it is my favorite” is not the best? What is the argument for or against “original taste”? Is general consensus a way to judge good from mediocre? Surely it is very possible that a group gathered to fashion that judgment would differ from the taste bias of another group.Air travel, tourism, and employment opportunities in Macau toward the end of World War II have brought many Portuguese dishes from continental Portugal. The introduction of new Portuguese dishes to Macau restaurants like Bacalhau à Zé do Pipo and Ameijoas à Bulhão Pato have made them local favorites, just as many delectable Chinese standards like Ma-po Tau-fu (spicy-hot tofu and pork) and Szi-chiu Ngau-yuk (beef sautéed in black bean sauce) have become an integral part of the post-diaspora Macaense diet. Unlike any other national group in the world, the descendants of the Portuguese have made a part of their cuisine the most varied mixture of spices and multi-national styles of cooking and tastes that merits them the title of “The Progenitors of Fusion Cuisine.” The question here is whether the recent dishes introduced from Portugal, though very popular and in the menus of many restaurants in Macau today, can be incorporated into Macaense cuisine. The obvious negative answer leads to the question of when the line is drawn between one and the other. Feijoada Macaense, Iscas à Moda de Macau, Cabelo de Noiva (Fios de Ovos), among others, are all Portuguese recipes with or without some modifications and yet very much a part of Macaense household dishes and local festivities. When looking at dishes such as Chau Fahn (fried rice) from the Chinese or the British-influenced Cheese Toast and even Minchi, where does

54authenticity come into consideration, be it personal or unilateral?Take Minchi as an example. It is common knowledge among the Macaense community that this dish differs from household to household; the origin of Minchi as discussed in an earlier chapter is another matter. The basic version, not the “authentic,” is chopped or minced meat, usually pork or a combination of pork and beef, fried with chopped garlic and onion, then soy sauce stirred in. Originally the meat was minced, hence the Chinese amahs pronounced it as “minsee,” which later became Minchi. Ground meat came later with the introduction of the meat grinder. The addition of fried diced potatoes on top was usual but the addition of a fried egg also came later in its evolution. Multiple variations adding ginger, sugar, green onions (scallions), and even rice noodles or curly wood-ear fungus (uricularia auricula-judae) added to the numerous ways of cooking this dish.A comparison between recipes of one of Macau’s favorite dishes will better make the point. Using the ingredients alone of Porco Bafassá (stewed-roasted pork in garlic-turmeric sauce) as an example, one can readily see that the recipes differ, but which one is considered authentic and who is to judge? One only has to look at the differences, or similarities, of the ingredients from chosen recipes by the author, the author’s mother Olga Pacheco Jorge da Silva, and those published by António Vicente Lopes (Receitas da Cozinha Macaense, p. 113), Graça Pacheco Jorge (A Cozinha de Macau da Casa do Meu Avô, p. 63), Cecília Jorge (Macanese Cooking, p. 108), and Beatriz Ozorio McDougall. Different Ingredients for Porco BafassáOLGA PACHECO JORGE DA SILVA 2 lb pork 1 tbsp turmeric 4 cloves garlic, lightly chopped salt to tasteANTONIO VICENTE LOPES 1 lb pork 2 tsp turmeric 2 cloves garlic, chopped ½ tsp pepper 1 tsp salt 2 bay leaves 1 tbsp lardGRAÇA PACHECO JORGE 2 lb pork 2 tbsp turmeric 2 cloves garlic 3 large onions ½ cup vinegar 1 bay leaf 1 tbsp lard 4 medium potatoes salt and pepper to tasteCECÍLIA JORGE 3 lb pork loin with some fat 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp rice vinegar 8 medium potatoes garlic cloves, crushed scallions, minced bay leaves vegetable oil salt and white peppercorns

55m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nANTÓNIO M. JORGE DA SILVA 3 lb pork shoulder or loin 1 tbsp turmeric 6 cloves garlic, crushed ½ tsp cumin ½ cup sweet sherry ¼ cup rice vinegar 2 bay leaves ½ tsp white pepper 2 tsp Kosher salt 9 potatoes BEATRIZ (BETTY) OZORIO McDOUGALL 5 lb pork shoulder 2 tbsp turmeric 7 cloves garlic, minced 1½ oz ginger, minced 4 shallots, minced 3 tbsp brandy 2 cups white wine 2 tsp sugar 3 tbsp white wine vinegar 3 tbsp olive oil for marinade 3 tsp salt 2 tsp white pepper

CHAPTER 5Evolution of Macaense Cuisine

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59m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMacaense cuisine following the diaspora has evolved and the process will continue as the earlier ones have done with local ingredients and cooking methods of the countries they have migrated to. Some have changed the cuisine for health reasons. Detrimental to the original taste of the dish, many now use less fat in the cuts of pork, pour off the excess fat, and also exclude the use of lard in most, if not all, recipes. As a result, some dishes have lost their authenticity and some “original” tastes have definitely changed. Over the years, even soy sauce has changed and varieties such as sweet soy and chili-infused soy have been added to the shelves of Chinese supermarkets. Thick soy almost like molasses (tik yau) is now difficult to find. There are now double-black (from molasses) and double-deluxe (from sugar) soy in the market. Soy sauces, both light (sang chau) and dark (lou chau), are used in many recipes. In Macaense cuisine the dark soy, which is not as salty, is often used in conjunction with the light soy, which is saltier. They are the base of many Chinese-influenced recipes. There is also a difference of quality that comes into play and differences from one manufacturer to another. I distinctly remember those sold from open front shops in Macau where they were kept in bamboo buckets and ladled into bottles for the customer using a small bamboo cup with a long stick attached. There one could see the viscosity of the soy and sense the odor of its aroma.Dishes such as Misó Cristan, Vaca Chau--chau Parida, Ade Cabidela, and others have lost their popularity and are almost extinct. Soon many of the dishes with balichão in its recipe will also disappear. The use of animal’s blood in the cooking of cabidela (stewed giblets) and similar recipes is repugnant to those now living in the western countries and Australia, almost ensuring its disappearance from the family tables. The making of balichão will also die out with the next few generations. It is more than likely that balichão will soon become an excluded ingredient in family cooking as Macaense balichão cannot be purchased in stores and its preparation does not interest the younger CHAPTER 5Evolution of Macaense Cuisine

60generation. This means that the dishes that require balichão will either become extinct or modified beyond recognition as the paste has such a strong and unique flavor. Store-bought shrimp pastes from Malaysia and the Philippines of similar historical origins are much different in taste and should not be used as a substitute, though one could claim it is part of the evolution process. As such, Tacho, Porco Balichão Tamarindo, Margoso Lorcha, and a few more that are dependent on the distinct taste of the shrimp paste are on the list of endangered dishes facing inevitable extinction.For the preservation of the history of Macaense culture, several cookbooks, including Cecília Jorge’s Macanese Cooking, try to preserve the better-known or traditional recipes. Cecília Jorge’s introduction brings back some of the nostalgia of the old ways, customs, and hospitality of the Macaense families in Macau and is well worth reading. She ends her Introduction by saying that the “filhos da terra [children of the land] of various generations from different places… must develop but without ever allowing matrixes and reference points to disappear as they are so vital to the survival of our identity.”31 The section on Macaense cooking in this book respects that sentiment, though many recipes have been and will continue to be modified. The author recognizes that evolution of most recipes is inevitable and has contributed to that evolution himself, retaining the basic taste as closely as possible, 31 Jorge, Cecília, Macanese Cooking, A Journey across Genera-tions, Introduction, 11.but using available ingredients and current cooking methods. Despite this, there is definitely a need to document the recipes of the Macaense heritage before they vanish with the passing of time.New recipes based on those of traditional origin have a place in the category of Macaense cuisine. But to what extent can changes be made before it upsets the matrix and reference points referred to? Other than modifications for personal taste, one has to accept the changes over time and availability of ingredients. As mentioned in previous chapters many recipes of Portuguese origin were changed with the substitution of Portuguese ingredients that were hard to find in Hong Kong and Shanghai. Portuguese imports such as sausages, wine, and olive oil were always available in Macau. Those from Hong Kong who wanted to cook with Portuguese ingredients had to get them from Macau. Not being an easy thing to do, they substituted Chinese ingredients and used vegetable or peanut oil for their cooking. The Portuguese taste was gone! Recipes began to change and evolve away from those of their Portuguese and Macau ancestors, but that is what happened to Portuguese dishes cooked in Macau and less so the Macaense, where the Portuguese taste of many dishes that originated in Portugal had evolved over the centuries to have its own character and its distinctive taste. This is not true of Po-kok Kai, the so-called Portuguese Chicken that the Chinese like so much in Macau. Few Macaenses cook this at home and the recipe is entirely a

61m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nChinese invention. Recipes will continue to change and have always been somewhat different from household to household. A few photocopies of old recipes are recorded in this book for posterity and for comparison with those that have evolved.Portuguese ChickenPo-kok KaiRecipe by Flávio da LuzCourtesy: Carlos and Karen da Luz collection

62Minchi, as discussed earlier, has gone through many changes. The earlier recipes used only minced pork for the meat, but eventually some used half pork and half beef as minced beef became more available in Hong Kong; most Macau recipes remained using pork only. After the diaspora to California and mainly for health reasons, minced chicken was used as the only meat in the recipe. It was not long before minced turkey followed. A few recipes progressed to be more complicated for the sake of introducing a variety of flavors in the dish. The author’s own recipe uses only minced beef but enlivens the palate with chopped ginger, spring onions, and the addition of double black soy and a little sugar for a slightly sweet and more intense flavor. Another recipe for turkey Minchi tries to moisten the dish and add more flavor with the addition of diced mushrooms and even a garnish of chopped walnuts for additional flavor and texture. Those Macaenses who immigrated to the United States, Australia, and Canada in the 1950s and 60s continued to cook using recipes passed down to them by their parents, grandparents, and others in the family. They tried to obtain the ingredients used and readily available in China but in the adopted countries where they were, some ingredients were either unavailable or very hard to find. So more changes were made and the evolution of Macaense cuisine continued. Breaking away from tradition, some members of the community began to invent new recipes based on the taste they remembered or using similar ingredients to create new and even more exotic flavors. Feijoada Macaense, for example, has taken a new turn from the red kidney bean and cabbage Macaense recipe; the omission of pork used in most feijoadas and even the sacrilegious use of Mexican style spicy chorizo instead of Portuguese linguiça has surfaced a tasty, almost vegetarian version — Feijoada California. The author’s Feijoada à Minha Maneira (Feijoada My Way) uses beef stew instead of pork, red kidney beans, brandy, thyme, and even diced carrots — a complete breakaway from the Macaense recipe.The older recipes and popular dishes typical of Macau, such as Galinha Saffrang (Turmeric Chicken), Porco Sutate (Pork with Soy Sauce), and Picado de Vinho d’Alho (Minced Vinho d’Alho Sausages), are now seldom prepared by those who have emigrated to the West. Galinha com Molho de Perdiz (Chicken with Partridge Sauce) as such vanished from Macaense homes before the World War II, though some have used duck’s liver instead of partridge since. It is obvious that few today even remember what those dishes tasted like and those who do rarely go to the trouble of making them as their children, born away from Chinese shores, will find them strange and unusual. Simple foods of simple times, affordable in Macau even during the War, when simple sauces over plain white rice could feed many, are now foreign to the new generation. One has to wonder about the partridge though as they are an exotic bird not found in the marketplace. Even then only those who hunted them

63m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nor those who were able to purchase them from hunters would see this dish on their tables. However, Galinha Saffrang might see a revival, as it has gotten more interesting with the use of shallots rather than spring onions and the use of Ruby Port, returning to its roots due to its availability. Chicken dishes in general have been given more flexibility and involve less work as chickens are available in supermarkets in packages of thighs, breasts, drumsticks, etc. nowadays, giving more choice to those who have preferences to different cuts of chicken and making it easier to handle as they are already cut and ready for preparation. One is quite correct to say that Macaense food and recipes have increasingly more Chinese ingredients and have evolved away from their Portuguese roots. Even Iscas (calf ’s liver) Macau style has inherited soy sauce in its preparation. As more and more Chinese married into the community, so the influence they passed on also became more significant, particularly in the cuisine. This shows how the Macaense cuisine has evolved and continues to transform, and also accounts for the increasing use of Chinese cuisine in Macaense homes. Macau is now part of China and it is inevitable that even there Macaense cuisine will eventually transfer from being home cooked to the restaurants. As the culture melds into that of the majority, so the cuisine will eventually become part of its historical past.For most Macaense families outside Macau, their final stay as a community on Chinese shores before the diaspora was in Hong Kong. Young men and women from Macau looking for work after World War II, families from Shanghai after the communist takeover in 1949, and the Hong Kong Portuguese community itself lived together in that British colony for the few decades before their departure to settle in other countries of the world. There they enjoyed the final years of their culture and meals served by Chinese maids in their homes and the two community clubs32 they belonged to. Their daily meals were typically of Macaense cuisine, whereas after the emigration to other countries, their customs, traditions, and home cooking would eventually merge into that of the new environment. For them it would be inevitable that their cuisine would further develop, influenced once again by the availability of ingredients and produce bringing about the evolution of the recipes passed down by their ancestors.32 The two clubs are Club de Recreio in Kowloon and Club Lusitano on the Hong Kong Island.

64Macau Boys, circa late 1950sCourtesy: Eduardo Francisco collection1 - Mário Carreiro; 2 - Felisberto Barlares (Kai-kai); 3- José da Cunha (Zeca); 4 - Generoso João Leal da Silva (Bebé); 5 - Ismael Capitulé (Tai Capi); 7 - Ludgero Siqueira (Checa); 8 - Manuel Valoma; 9 - António Capitulé (Capi-Chai); 10 - José Sá Silva (inho); 11 - Zoé Siqueira; 12 - Arnaldo Ribas da Silva (Bicho); 12 - Leonel da Costa (Lenny); 12 - Severino Silva (A Mong); 15 - João Nolasco; 16- Vasco Rodrigues; 17 - Mário Horácio Brito; 18 - Vice-cônsul, Menezes Ribeiro: 19 - António da Cunha (Mocho); 20 - Sr. Cônsul, Carlos Lopes; 21 - Arnaldo Couto (Chocolate); 22 - José Conde; 23 - Manuel Guerreiro (Ló-Pack); 24 - Artur Rosa; 25 - Sonny Gomes; 26 - Armindo Manhão Roberts; 27 - Francisco Xavier (Chico); 28 - José Salvado da Silva (Boi); 29 - João Couto; 30 - José Maria Inácio; 31 - Luís Xavier (Nháio); 32 - Luís Baptista: 33 - João Almeiida (João Zoi); 34 - Fernando Zeferino de Souza (Hám-Pao); 35 - Leonel Gomes; 36 - Sebastião José; 37 - Euclides Viana; 38 - Alfredo Amorim; 39 - Fernando Siqueira (Ká-Tchat); 40 - Lopes: 41 - Felisberto da Rosa (Padre); 42 - Demmee; 43 - Vasco Sales da Silva (Kéu-Kéu): 44- Daniel Oliveira; 45 - Móises Bernardo; 46 - Alfredo Almeida; 47 - Renato Ridrigues; 48 - Lourenço Fong Assis ?; - 49 - ???; 50 - Artur da Rocha (Tutu); 51 - Rui Ramalho; 52 - Antunes (Magno); 53 - Victor S. da Silva; 54 - Ramiro da Rocha; 55 - Francisco Marques (Chico); 56 - António Manuel dos Santos (Tótó); 57 - Sérgio Rui da Pina (Bobby); 58 - Amilca Vaz Placé (Mickey); 59 - Eduardo (Eddie) Bontein da Roza; 60 - Adrião Pinto Marques Jr. (Júnior); 61 - Viriato do Rosário (Só-Pi); 62 - André Bahares; 63 - Manuel Sequeira; 64 - Rui Ayres da Silva; 65 - Domingos José de Almeida (Kai-Pou); 66 - Francisco Mendes (Mincee); 67 - Alberto Chi Chi Fernandes; 68 - Leonel Sequeira (Napoleão); 69 - Johnny Fernandes; 70 - Alberto F. Rodrigues (Tou Chai); 71 - Dias (Irmão de Miss Dias); 72 - Gregório da Silva (Góio); 73 - Henrique da Luz (Jap).1314461530121110987654321282627297372 71 706865 62 6157555352 51504849 473369673566 64 60595856 544216454417431841401920393837633634323125 2423 22 21

65m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nCHAPTER 6Genti di Macau People of Macau

66

67m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nDescendants of the Portuguese, most Macaenses born in Macau, though revealing some Asian genes in their faces, retain their evident European appearance. The long history of their ancestors dates back to 1557 when the Portuguese first settled in this small peninsula on the southeastern coast of China. Changing times following the World War II and the emergence of a restructured and modern-day China has eclipsed the significance of European colonialism leaving the Macaense with no reason to remain an isolated community among the emerging Chinese population, annulling their raison-d’etre. Left are their memories and the cultural influence that have survived for almost 450 years. A glimpse into their lives will amplify one’s understanding of their spirit in an environment where they were distinctive in a diverse society and a minority among indigenous population. Their bond to their Portuguese roots was almost an imagined reality to a distant place they had never seen. Like their cuisine, they were a mixture of mixtures embryonic of their Portuguese heritage.These hard-working, fun-loving people will soon only be a memory and photo-graphs in the books that venerate their names and faces, and feature their achieve-ments in sports and other aspects of the lives they left behind. This is true not only of those who lived in Macau, but also in Hong Kong, Shanghai, and other Treaty Ports in China. Genti di Macau (people of Macau) in Maquista patois may have once referred only to those living in Macau itself, but now includes all Macaenses — those born in Ma-cau and those who left to reside in other parts of China, some even in Japan and other parts of Southeast Asia. Just like their cuisines, which originated in Macau, they are collectively the same cuisine, though the recipes have evolved in place and time, so the people and their descendants too are collectively Macaenses. “Once you are nos-sa genti [our people], you’ll be it to the end of your days…”33 33 Senna Fernandes, Miguel de, email to the author, Octo-ber 7, 2015.CHAPTER 6Genti di Macau People of Macau

68Photographs below give a glimpse of these people celebrating their recent historical past in the twentieth century. Looking at their faces one can readily see the fusion of Asian genes in their corresponding European faces — some more than others, of course. One is looking at over four hundred years of genealogical progeny, a people whose ancestors hardly ever left their Asian shores. Yet their Portuguese patrilineal characteristics in appearance is ever apparent and their names always Portuguese. Well educated, most adults with prior business experience, they are now spread all over the world, Macau is their home no more. A very few remain behind, but for all intents and purposes, they and their cuisine will meld into the world of the future. What was will eventually fade into history.Carnaval at Clube Macau, circa 1930sChinese ThemeCourtesy: António E. Rodrigues da Silva collection

69m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nGathering of Musicians and Partygoers, 1935Courtesy: Fernando Ribeiro collectionChildren in Macau November 16, 1937Back Row: Mariana Maher, Maria Fernanda Nolasco? Cijigal? “Lele” Silva, Gustavo “Guta” da Silva, Fernando Ribeiro, José “Zéca” Trigo da Silva, Fernando Rosa2nd Row: ? Cijigal? Cijigal, Maria Armanda Piano Martins, Maria Lourdes Trigo da Silva, Albertinho Rosa, Maria Teresa Maher, Mariazinha Carmona3rd Row: ? Cijigal, Edith Noloasco, Rui Lopo de Menezes, João António Piano Martins, José “Zézé” da Silva, Hermes RosaFront Row: Luisa Trigo da Silva, Maria Augusta Piano Martins, Terezinha Catela, Lourdes de Menezes, Pedro Zanati, Mário Zanati, Artur RosaCourtesy: Fernando Ribeiro collection

70Show at Clube Macau, February 2, 1952...? Delgado, José António “Zécas” Vidigal, António Nolasco, Freitas Ribeiro, João Canavarro “Josing” Nolasco, Julian ...?Courtesy: Manuela “Bebé” Vidigal Pacheco Jorge collection

71m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nNew Year’s Dance at Clube Lusitano, Shanghai 19361. Unknown 2. Unknown 3. Unknown 4. Manuel “Al” Sequeira 5. Cecilia “Cissy” Xavier Sequeira 6. Unknown 7. Manuela “Malita” Silva 8. Unknown 9. Palmira “Pam” de Aguiar 10. Jerry Senna 11. Unknown 12. Giles Deitz 13. Unknown 14. Unknown 15jagr. Unknown 16. José “Joe” Gonçalves 17. Antonio “Anty” Brito 18. Maria da Conceição “Connie” Silva Brito 19. Unknown 20. Lt. Frederico “Puffy” Gutierrez 21. Unknown 22. Margaret “Peggy” Barnes Gutierrez 23. Unknown 24. Marie Silva Ribbons 25. Victor Ribbons 26. Ernestina “Ernie” Baptista Silva 27. Alfredo Silva 28. Danuzito Gutterres 29. Augusto Braga 30. Unknown 31. Celeste Caldas 32. Unknown 33. Unknown 34. Eduardo “Dick” Sousa 35. Unknown 36. José “Mano” Rozario 37. Unknown 38. Dr. António “Tony” Diniz 39. Vivian Butler Diniz 40. Unknown 41. Unknown 42. Mercia Barreto 43. Olle Edgren 44. Sara “Sarita” Lobo 45. Louis “Louie” Oliveira 46. Unknown 47. Unknown 48. Cecilia “Cissy” Rozario 49. Vasco de Sousa 50. Unknown 51. Carmen Augusta de Brito 52. Julio Gutierrez 53. Silvia Vieira Gutierrez 54. José “Zinho” Gutierrez Jr. 55. Unknown 56. Unknown 57. Unknown 58. Unknown 59. Unknown 60. Hilda Gladys Osorio 61. Unknown 62. Julia Aguiar de Campos 63. Unknown 64. José Alves (Portuguese Consul) 65. Mrs. José Alves 66. Matias de Campos 67. Carmen ”Carmelita” Carion Braga 68. Alvaro Portaria 69. Rosalia Vieira Passos 70. Unknown 71. Celeste “Ross” de Aguiar 72. Unknown 73. Carlos Passos 74. Maria Augusta Figueiredo 75. Unknown 76. Maria de Gloria “Marzita” Carion Collaço 77. Theobaldo “Bado” Collaço 78. Emilio Silva 79. Evelyn Xavier 80. Antero Silva 81. Armanda “Mandy” Collaço Silva 82. Carlos Conceição 83. Vincent “De De” Xavier 84. Nelia Cruz 85. Eduardo Carion 86. Ernesto “Ernie” Silva 87. Lilian Alarcoon 88. Alberto ”Nanão” Carneiro 89. António Ferrer Gomes 90. Unknown 91. Bonifacio “Bones” Pintos 92. Mercedes Xavier 93. Colonel Mike Hogan 94. Catarina “Kate” Remedios Hogan 95. Alda Ribeiro 96. Frederico “Fred” Machado 97. Armando “Adidi” da Costa 98. Emilia “Millie” Collaço Names identified by: Alfred Machado, Amelia Roliz, Angie Petersen, Aurea Collaço Meyer, Evelyn Nyland, Gil da Silva, Oscar CollaçoNew Year’s Dance at Clube Lusitano, Shanghai, 1936Courtesy: Aurea Collaço Meyer collection161 2 3 456 7 8 9 10111213 141517 18 19 2021 2223 242526 2728 2930 3132333435363738 394041 42 43 4445 46 47 48495051525354 5571706996959493689291908967666588868785646362618498838281807978777660595857757497737256

72Chá Gordo at Clube Militar, circa 1930António M. Jorge da Silva collection

73m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nCHAPTER 7Recipes

74

75m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o n Cooking Terms, Produce, and MeatThere are several terms used in Macaense cooking that one should know and the names of popular fruits, vegetables, herbs, etc., that we should be aware of. The list below is far from complete but contains those used in some of the recipes in this book. Most are words in Maquista; some are Portuguese, indicated as (P), and others, such as Ade, are from archaic Portuguese, but still used in Maquista.• Maquista or Portuguese • EnglishAde DuckAde CabidelaStewed duck in its own bloodAlo or Alho (P) GarlicAluá Macaense sweet, usually made at Christmas timeAssado (P) — the past tense of Assar, grill, or bakeAmechom Clay pot, glazed on insideAnidiu Melon like honeydewAnona Custard appleApabico Steamed rice wrapper filled with pork, mushrooms, etc.Arroz (P) RiceArroz Carregado Pressed riceArroz Gordo (P) Literally “fat rice” but meaning rich and full-bodiedArroz Pulu Glutinous rice also known as sticky rice and sweet rice*Bafado (P) the past tense of Abafar to stew (literally smother or stifle) or steamBafassá (from Bafado e Assado) Stewed and roastedBagi Dessert made from coconut, glutinous rice, etc.Balichão Shrimp pasteBatata (P) PotatoBatatada Dessert made from sweet potatoes, coconut, rice flour, etc.Bebinca or BebingaDessert made from eggs, evaporated milk, coconut, etc.GLOSSARY OF TERMS

76Bicho-bicho Twisted fried pastiesBífe (P) Beef or steakBolo (P) CakeBolo Minino (P) Cake made from toasted coconut, nuts, crushed biscuits, etc.Cabelo de Noiva (P) Sweet like golden strands of hair made from eggs, etc.Cabidela (P) Stewed giblets: in Maquista this word is associated with “cooked in its own blood”Calikok Triangular deep fried curried meat in a wrapperCanji or Chook Rice broth with different additivesCasquinhas (P) Small crab shellsCaríl or CarilCurryChá-gordo High tea with multiple appetizers and finger foodChachini or Chetini Chutney — also a paste of cooked shredded fish with coconut milk and chiliChau-chau Stir-fry or sautéChau-chau Parida Stir-fry supposedly to invigorate women after giving birthChau-chau Pele or Tacho Mixed stew with pig’s skin, Chinese sausages, etc.Chile-miçó (often spelled misó) Chili and vinegar paste as in Chinese Chili sauce lat-chiu cheungChilicóte Type of Samosa made with minced meat fried in a wrapperChincha The filling of a roll or pieCoquéra Small coconut cakesCozido (P) Cooked or bakedCria-cria Appetizer made with several chopped meats rolled in rice flour Coscorám Fried small cakes of eggs and flour, usually made at Christmas timeCurcuma or Curcumino, or SaffrangGround turmeric, often incorrectly written in Macaense recipes as saffrangCuscús SteamedDiabo (P) Literally meaning devil; a stew made from leftover meats after a banquetDóci or Doce Sweet, Confection

77m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nEmpada (P) Pastry made with fish in Macau, usually at Christmas timeFeijoada (P) Bean stewFrito (P) FriedFula-fula Flowers, usually papaya flowers or orange blossom, used in cookingGalinha (P) HenGeléa or Geleia (P) Jelly, such as Calf ’s Foot Jelly — Geléa Mam di VacaGenetes Cornstarch cookies sometimes incorrectly known as Bicho-bichoGrelhado (P) Grilled Guisado (P) StewedJagra Slab brown sugar made from the sap of the palm tree, usually sold in small slabs Lacassá Spicy soup made with fine rice noodlesLadú Dessert made with glutinous rice, pine nuts, coconut, etc.Lombo (P) Loin, such as pork loinLin ngau Lotus root, actually a rhizome, also known as restrateMaizena (P) CornstarchMargoso or Amargoso Bitter squashMinchí or Minche Pan cooked Macaense dish made with ground pork or ground beefNhameYam or sweet potatoPápa Soft cooked rice like a thick congee, usually with shredded chickenPeixe (P) FishPiri-piri (P) Also called African Bird’s Eye Chili, a cultivar of Capiseum Frutesceus is also refered to as a piri-piri chili saucePorco (P) PorkPulú* Glutinous rice (oryza sativa) grown mainly in East and Southeast AsiaRábano (P) Turnip or radishRecheado (P) StuffedRestrate Lotus root (rhizome)Saffrang Turmeric, derived from the word açafrão (P) saffron, because of its color

78Sópa or Sopa (P) SoupSutáte Soy sauceTacho (P) Pan or pot in Portuguese also to mean Chau-chau Pele, a Macaense dishTamarinho or Tamarindo (P) Tamarind (tamarindus indica)Tifim Luncheon (Tiffin in English)Vinho d’Alho (P) Dish made with vinegar (originally as a preservative) and usually pork Virado (P) Literally stirred or turned, is the name of a mixed stew in macaense cuisineVaca (P) Cow or beef* Glutinous rice, also known as sticky rice and sweet rice, is grown mainly in East Asia and Southeast Asia. Though known as “glutinous” rice, it does not contain dietary gluten and is safe to eat in gluten-free diets. In Cantonese, this rice is called nhó mai (or nhó-mai fan when cooked) and in Malaysia, Singapore, and Sumatra, it is called pulut. In Maquista, this rice is known as arroz pulu and used in the preparation of arroz caregado, an essential part of the Balichão Tamarindo dish.

79m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nDaily Meals and PartiesBreakfast — Pequeno AlmoçoThis was a simple meal, usually with eggs, bread, and coffee. Sometimes Chinese congee (Chook) was bought from street vendors and added to the meal.Lunch — Almoço or Tifim (from Tiffin pronounced tif-feeng in Maquista)This meal could be light, such as a fish dish like Macau Sole, Portuguese Salad, Sopa Lacassa, Chinese Fried Noodles, or included a main course with rice. The latter was often used by employees of the Hongkong Bank or other places of work brought in the morning in a layered food container of Chinese origin known as a cactau.Tea — CháUsually a light snack at 4:00 p.m., which did include tea with evaporated milk and sugar. Coffee was usually served with breakfast or after a dinner meal. Chá was also the name for gatherings or parties, such as birthdays and baptism, where an assortment of snacks, cakes, and sweet delicacies were placed at the table for guests to serve themselves. A more elaborate version of this could be for a gathering that would last several hours or even into the night known as Chá Gordo (Fat Tea).Dinner — JantarThis was the main meal of the day for the Macaense, usually served at 8:00 p.m. This meal could be as simple as rice with a main course, or in some homes a three- or four-course meal served by the amahs. The meal would begin with appetizers, then soup, then a fish or seafood course, then dessert or fruit, ending with coffee and Port wine.Supper — CeiaRarely a daily routine, this meal was usually eaten after a long day, such as by evening moviegoers in the 50s and early 60s particularly, and those who just stayed up late or after a long fast during Lent before Easter or Christmas Eve. This late evening meal was often eaten at food stalls (tai-pai dong) or in restaurants. At home, for example after a Christmas Eve midnight mass, the meal would usually be a fish dish such as Empada.

80Macaense recipes in this final phase of their history are greatly influenced by Chinese ingredients and, to some extent, Chinese cooking methods. The desserts and sweets on the whole remain more European than Chinese, though the Peranakan Chinese ingredients brought in by the Nhonhas centuries before remain. Entering into the world of fusion cuisine, some of the recipes will yet evolve. It is both interesting and essential that a record of what was and how it has evolved is represented here.Each recipe is preceded by some description of either the origin of the dish, its name, or some other features of interest. Recipes written before the 1980s are dated, whereas the current ones are not. Old recipes that have been modified recently are also not dated, but they are representative and/or based on Macaense traditions and style of cuisine. Some recipes incorporate others that are similar for comparison purposes. Many recipes written and dated before 1980 though translated from Portuguese to English are included for illustration purposes only, to show the types of ingredients used and how they may differ from what is used as recipes evolved through the years. As those recipes are taken from personal notepads of the cooks, the cooking methods and the sequence in preparation are often abbreviated. In using these recipes it is important to appreciate that gravy plays a big role in Macaense cuisine as do the interface of sweet and sour and the use of soy sauce. The complexity of ingredients in some recipes comes from the frequent omission of “a little of this and a touch of that” in older recipes as those cooks improvised as they went along. I feel it necessary to include those subtleties, making the list of ingredients longer and the recipes more complex. Further substitution of ingredients is another factor that may affect the outcome of the dish. Jagra,1 for example, can be substituted with brown sugar, but the taste will be compromised. The same applies to the use of Portuguese olive oil, which has a significant influence on the taste.Included as a separate section at the end are recipes that are purely Chinese and now often prepared in Macaense homes, some as accompaniments to Macaense dishes and others main courses for dinners without any European influence at all.There are many recipes in the Macaense community worldwide that may be similar or may vary from those in this book. That is the nature of recipe evolution decades after the diaspora. Several cookbooks with Macaense recipes have been published and are worth referring to. Those that the author has come across are listed in the Bibliography in this book. 1 Jagra is coarse brown sugar made from the sap of the palm tree, usually sold in 1 ½ x 5 x ½-inch slabs and found mainly in Chinese supermarkets. This sugar is hard to cut or crush into measurable quantities.

AppetizersAppetizers in Macaense cuisine include those that are continental Portuguese both in origin and have evolved, and those unchanged from what is available in any Portuguese city today. The same can be said for the desserts and cakes. Often these appetizers are served in Chá Gordo (Fat Tea) festivities, during which cakes, sweets, and desserts are usually set on the table.

82This appetizer is often served in gatherings of the Macaense community. Its name Apabicos is derived from the Tamil word apa, meaning a small, thin, and flat circular pancake, and bico, meaning beak in Portuguese. The filling often includes chopped mushrooms, “…and for more flavor a light touch of hot chili paste, ‘chili misso,’”1 in Maquista spelled chili miçó2 and more often spelled misó. The filling is obviously Chinese in origin with a touch of British in the use of Lea & Perrins Worcester-shire sauce.(Makes about 50 pieces)1 Jorge, Graça Pacheco, A Cozinha de Macau da Casa do Meu Avô, 42.2 Batalha, Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, 47.INGREDIENTS• ½ lb ground pork• 3 cups wheat starch • 6 oz dried chung choi (preserved salted turnip) • ½ tsp Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce• ½ tsp vegetable oil• 1 tbsp black pepper (salt, if needed)APABICOS Pork and TurniP dumPlingsDorothy Oliveira AbbasMETHOD1. Soak chung choi overnight and rinse out. This is very salty.2. Squeeze out all the water from the chung choi and chop it very finely in a Cuisinart. 3. Using a frying pan without oil, fry the chung choi until it is dry. 4. Add ground pork and black pepper, and cook until the meat is thoroughly cooked. 5. Add a dash of Lea & Perrins sauce. Season with salt to taste. Set aside and leave to cool.6. Make in 3 batches: In a bowl add 1 cup of wheat starch mixed with 1 cup of boiling water. Stir and mix until smooth; combined with ½ tablespoon oil to form a dough. 7. Take a little of the dough (about 1 ½ inches in diameter) and roll into a ball, then flatten out as much as you can without breaking the dough. Put about 1 teaspoon of the chung choi-pork mixture into the middle and fold the dough around it finishing into a pointed end (in the shape of a Hershey chocolate “kiss”) or a “beak,” hence a bico in Portuguese. Repeat until all the dough or pork mixture is used. 8. Steam the little Apabicos in a steamer for 20 minutes. 9. Serve with soy and hot chili sauce.

83m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Lightly toast the bread slices, then set aside. 2. Thoroughly mix all other ingredients to the consistency of a thick paste. 3. Spread the paste, thicker in the middle, on one side of each bread slice.4. Place the slices under the low broiler, cheese side up, until the surfaces of the cheese are medium-brown. 5. Serve right away. INGREDIENTS• 6 slices white bread, crust cut off, toasted, and cut into triangular halves, or French baguette, sliced• ¾ lb Edam cheese, finely grated• ¼ lb Parmesan cheese, grated (optional)• ¼ lb unsalted butter, softened• 3 tsp Coleman’s mustard powder• 2 tsp sugar • ½ tsp salt• ½ tsp Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauceCHEESE TOAST Lusitano, Hong KongThis appetizer of British origin was adopted by the Portuguese in Hong Kong and, as usual, modified to please the taste of the many members of Club de Recreio and Club Lusitano. The recipe was first given to me by one of the cooks of Club Lusitano, after some friendly coercion at a late lunch I had there in 1997 before that clubhouse was demolished. A recent modification of this recipe by the Club’s kitchen adds grated Parmesan cheese over the top of the Edam cheese before toasting. There might have been a recent (2000–2005) addition by the new chef after the new club building was completed. Francisco da Roza, the club’s new President, gave this information to me in 2011. Below is the original recipe given to me in 1997 showing Parmesan cheese as an optional addition to the topping before broiling.The slight sweetness of this cheese toast is characteristic of those served in Club Lusitano, Hong Kong.(Serves 12)

84The name Calikok is made up of two Chinese terms — cali meaning curry and kok meaning corners. The ingredients of Calikok are very similar to that of Chilicote. The pastry of the Calikok is crispier and the filling usually spicier as there is only minced meat in the filling. “Koon Yick” and most other Chinese curry powders use a little 5-spice powder that gives a unique scented taste. The wrappers used are paper thin and the same as that for Filipino Lumpia.METHOD1. Mix the spices and set aside.2. Stir-fry the onions and the garlic over medium heat for 5 minutes, then add the grated ginger and continue to fry until the onions are translucent.3. Add the ground pork and the beef mix and stir-fry until thoroughly cooked.4. Add the soy sauce, spice mix (or curry powder), and the sugar, then thoroughly mix with the ground meat. Taste and season as necessary.5. Cut each spring roll wrapper into 4 strips. 6. Scoop 1 rounded teaspoon of the mixture onto one corner of the pastry wrapper. Fold the strip diagonally over the meat to form triangular shaped packages. Rub the end of the strip with egg wash to seal. Continue this process until all the mixture is used.7. Deep-fry several pieces at a time over very hot oil until golden brown. Set aside to drain over paper towels. Fry the other pieces until all done. Serve warm or at room temperature.INGREDIENTS• 1 lb ground pork• 1 onion, finely diced• 3 cloves garlic, minced• 2 tsp ginger, grated• 2 tbsp light soy• 1 x 16 oz pkt rice paper wrappers (shortcut method) vegetable oil for fryingSPICES• 1 tsp cumin • ½ tsp white pepper• 2 tsp turmeric• ⅛ tsp cinnamon powder • ¼ tsp cayenne pepper or to taste• ¼ tsp 5-spice powder• 1 tsp sugarCALIKOK sPicy ground Pork and Beef samosasAntónio M. Jorge da Silva84

86Chilicote is an appetizer served for many occasions. It is found at most family and group events, be it a birthday party, a gathering of friends for dinner, or special social events, such as a Chá Gordo. There are two types of Chilicote, the most common being semicircular shaped and deep-fried, and the other, Chilicote-Folha, is wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed. The recipe here is the fried Chilicote, the filling of which is basically a spiced Minchi. The earlier recipes used what some called Chinese turnip, which is jicama (cót in Cantonese), and not daikon radish. Not always easy to find, most now use boiled potatoes, which are then diced.The word Chilicote is said to be of Malay origin — chelis meaning “chopping into small pieces,” or, more likely, chelakuti meaning “a cake or sweetmeat.”* Samosas originated in the Middle East where they are called sambosas. They were introduced to India by those who went there from that region to cook for the Sultans and nobility. Chilicote being a type of samosa is of that origin. In Goa they are called Chamuças.* Wilkinson, R. J., A Malay-English Dictionary.CHILICOTE sPicy ground Pork PasTiesAntónio M. Jorge da Silva

87m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Boil the potatoes with skin on in water with 1 tablespoon salt. Cook until tender, drain and leave to cool, then peel and cut into ¼-inch dices.2. Mix the spices and set aside, if not using “Koon Yick” curry powder.3. Oil the bottom of a pre-warmed pan with about 3 tablespoons vegetable oil. Add the diced onions, garlic, and a pinch of salt. Stir-fry over medium heat until the onions are translucent.4. Add the ground pork/beef mix and stir-fry until thoroughly cooked, then mash the ground meat with a potato masher until it is completely separated and not lumpy.5. Add the soy sauce, spice powder, and sugar, mix thoroughly with the ground meat. Season to taste as necessary.6. Mix in the diced potatoes, adding 1 teaspoon salt. When thoroughly mixed, season again to taste as necessary.7. Scoop 1 teaspoon of the mixture onto the center of a pastry wrapper. Wet the edge of the wrapper with a little water. Fold over and seal the sides with a ¼-inch folded flap. Crimp down the sides with a fork or crimping tool and set aside.** Continue this process until all the mixture is used.8. Deep-fry a few pieces at a time in very hot oil until golden brown. Set aside to drain over paper towels. Fry the other pieces until all done. Serve warm or at room temperature.* Crisp crust-like pastry is very important to a traditional Chilicote, but takes time to make. One suggested recipe for the pastry is 2 pounds self-rising wheat flour, 8 egg yolks, 2 egg whites, and a pinch of salt, but this is for a large quantity. ** Chinese markets sell a hinged clam-shaped metal disc that seals the edges. INGREDIENTS• 1 lb ground pork• 1 lb ground beef • 3 medium white potatoes• 1 onion, finely diced• 3 cloves garlic, minced• 2 tbsp light soy• 2 tbsp sugar• 1 tsp salt• 1 tbsp Kosher salt for cooking potatoes• 1 x 16 oz pkt round Wonton wrappers* (shortcut method)• 1 tbsp Koon Yick curry powder if available, otherwise use the spice ingredients listed below • vegetable oil for fryingSpice Alternative to “Koon Yick” Curry Powder • 1 tsp cumin• ½ tsp coriander • ½ tsp white pepper• 2 tsp turmeric• ¼ tsp cayenne pepper or to taste• ¼ tsp 5-spice powder (or fine ground star anise)• 2 tsp sugar

This is a Chilicote recipe that goes into a lot of detail of how it was done in the 1930s. Ms Alvares used a Chinese fungus known to the community as orelhas de rato (rats’ ears), a curly wood-ear fungus (uricularia auricula-judae), but is substituted in this recipe with minced potatoes, which is used in most other recipes. METHOD1. Sift the flour in a bowl, add the egg yolks and mix.2. Add cold water mixed with a pinch of salt gradually, mixing until the paste comes to a consistency that can be kneaded. Place the dough on a board. Knead until smooth adding water as necessary so that the dough is neither too hard nor sticking to the hands. Knead for 5 minutes, then gradually knead the lard into the paste. Test by cutting the dough in half and “plenty of holes are visible” to verify that the dough is ready.3. Set aside, covering with a damp cloth until the stuffing is ready.METHOD1. Heat the lard in a frying pan. Fry the green onions for a minute, then add the minced pork, salt, and pepper. Fry until the pork is cooked thoroughly, then add the diced potatoes and mix well.2. Add enough water to halfway of the mince and leave to simmer, stirring occasionally until the mince is moist but not wet. Remove from heat and leave to cool.3. Cut out a quarter of the dough and roll it out to a thin strip about 16 inches long and 4 inches wide. Cut into 4-inch squares for each Chilicote. 4. Add one teaspoon or a little more to the center of the square, 1 inch from the ends, brush a little cold water on the exposed ends of the dough. Fold the pastry over the filling, press on the dough flaps firmly, then cut out the Chilicote in the shape of a half moon. 5. Fry the Chilicote in small batches until medium brown and set aside over paper towels. INGREDIENTSPastry• ½ lb flour• 3 egg yolks• 1–2 tsp lard• cold water and a good pinch of saltFilling• ½ lb minced pork• 4 stalk green onions, washed and chopped• 2–3 medium white potatoes, boiled and diced to ¼ inch• 1 ½ tbsp. lard for frying• salt and white pepper to tasteCHILICOTE FRITO — an older variaTionDelmira Alvares Fried Spicy Minced Pork Pasties Guilhermina “Guilly” de Figueiredo collection Recipe circa 1920s88

METHOD1. Dissolve the jagra in a small pan with ½ cup of water over medium heat and continue to heat until the sugar becomes syrupy.2. Beat the eggs in a bowl. Set aside.3. Add 1 tablespoon butter to a frying pan over medium heat. When butter is dissolved add the eggs, quickly stir in with a fork, then add the dissolved jagra and continue to stir the eggs until thoroughly mixed with the jagra.4. Serve with bread or toast for breakfastINGREDIENTS• 4 eggs• ¼ cup jagra• 1 tbsp butter• ½ cup waterThis is typically used as a breakfast dish and very much enjoyed by children as the shredded eggs are sweet.(Serves 2) OVOS COM JAGRA eggs wiTh slaB Brown sugarOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1950s89m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o n

90METHOD1. When purchasing the pork butt, ask the butcher to leave all the fat on and coarse-grind, or “chili grind,” the meat.2. Thoroughly mix the ingredients with the meat. Use a large ceramic or glass bowl. Do not use plastic or metal. Cover and leave to marinate for 3 days. Thoroughly mix the meat daily. Remove a sample piece and steam or otherwise cook well, then taste. Add more salt if necessary.3. Wash sausage casings under running water. Find the opening at one end and run a small stream of water through the casing before stuffing the meat.4. Stuff marinated meat into the sausage casings, using a plastic funnel or sausage-stuffing machine. Puncture small pinholes as necessary to remove air pockets in the casings, allowing sausage meat to completely fill the casings during the process. Twist off and tie sections to form sausage links of about 5 inches in length. Tie knots at both ends of the casing.5. Hang the sausages over a pan for a day or two in a cool place to allow sausages to drip off excess liquid.Note: The sausages should be vacuum sealed or freezer wrapped and frozen if not used within a few days.INGREDIENTS• 10 lb pork butt, coarse “chili” grind• 60 sausage casings• 3 tbsp Kosher salt• 4 tbsp white pepper• 2 tsp black pepper• 2 tbsp cumin• 2 tsp coriander• 2 tbsp turmeric• 2 tsp paprika• ½ tsp ground cloves• 1 ½ tbsp cayenne pepper• 1 ½ tbsp chili flakes• 2 tbsp garlic (about 8 large cloves), chopped• 10 red cayenne chilies, rough chopped • ½ cup sherry• ¾ cup Portuguese brandy• ¾ cup distilled vinegar (rice vinegar is too light)• 2 tsp sugar (to offset bitterness of the turmeric)CHOURIÇO VINHO D‘ALHO — macau sPiced sausages wiTh garlic, vinegar, and BrandyAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaChouriço Vinha d’Alhos or Chouriço de Vinho e Alho originated in Goa and made its way to Macau where it picked up Chinese ingredients in many of the recipes used in different households. I do not use Chinese ingredients; I try to keep the ingredients my mother wrote. However, I thought I would research and modify the recipe to be more akin to the origins of this spicy and very tasty sausage. I also added sherry and brandy to make it more interesting. Originally the meat was hand cut into about ½-inch pieces but this is very time consuming and some butchers having grinders to coarse-grind the meat makes the process easier. Also grinding the meat and fat together makes the finished sausage moist and allows for grilling them on the BBQ and easier slicing. (Makes 36 to 40 sausages)

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92This fish pie, Empada de Peixe, with its roots from Portugal, is traditionally served on Christmas Eve. The use of nuts, Port or Madeira wine, and a slightly sweet pastry make some think of this as a dessert, but it is not. It is normally served on Christmas Eve when the Portuguese return after Midnight Mass. Many Catholics abstain from eating meat before Midnight Mass.EMPADA macau fish PieBetty McDougall (minor modifications by son, Gerry)

93m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nCrust for one 10 inch pieINGREDIENTS• 5 cups self-rising flour• ¾ cup sugar• ½ lb lard• 1 tsp salt• ¼ lb pine nuts, very finely ground• 8 egg yolks, beaten separately• ¼ cup medium sweet Port or Madeira wine1. Season fish with salt and pepper, and brown lightly in pan with olive oil. Drain fish on paper towels and break up into small pieces with fork.2. Leave enough oil in pan to sauté the shallots until translucent, add the garlic and green onions, and continue to sauté for 30 seconds, then turn the heat down. Add the spices and all the other ingredients including the olives and the pine nuts; cook for 2 to 3 minutes, making sure there is a light sauce formed that is enough to coat the fish.3. Add a little coconut milk at a time and allow to simmer until the liquid has evaporated and absorbed by the fish. Do not allow the fish to dry.ASSEMBLY1. Fill the pie bottom with the curried fish filling, adding the egg halves carefully and equidistant from each other. Sprinkle the top of filling with Parmesan cheese lightly before covering with upper crust.2. Cover with the upper crust and prick piecrust with fork tines before baking in a pre-heated oven at 375ºF for 40 to 45 minutes.Filling• 1 ½ lb sea bass, striped bass or halibut, boned and cut into 1-inch pieces• 2 tbsp extra virgin, usually Portuguese, olive oil• ½ cup coconut milk• 1 tbsp cumin• 1 tbsp turmeric• 1 tbsp ground coriander seed• 1 ½ tbsp Madras curry powder • 2 cloves garlic, minced• 2 shallots, minced• 1 tbsp sugar• 3 stalks green onions, chopped• 20 green or black olives, chopped• 2 oz pine nuts, lightly toasted• 3 eggs, hard-boiled, shelled and halved• ½ oz grated fresh Parmesan cheese• salt and pepper to tasteMETHOD1. Sift flour together with sugar and salt into a large mixing bowl. Stir in the pine nuts.2. Melt lard in a small saucepan and when hot, slowly pour over the dry flour mixture. Mix thoroughly with a dough hook until small grains form, then allow to cool. To the cool dough add beaten egg yolks and Port or Madeira wine, and combine thoroughly. Allow to further cool in the refrigerator.3. When cool, divide the dough into two portions, one for the lower crust and one for the upper crust. When shaping the pie, use a wide-rimmed pie pan and make sure the edge of the pie is contained within the pan, i.e. not resting on the edge of the pan edge. The crust will expand upon cooking and the edge may break off if it extends beyond the edge of the pan edge.

94This dish is typical of the enormous 8- to 10-inch long prawns served only in Macau. Solmar restaurant in the late 1960s added chopped red chilies to the stuffing, making the prawns fiery hot yet delicious, especially with a glass of very cold vinho verde. (Serves 4 to 6)INGREDIENTS• 1 lb large prawns, shells split and deveined • 1 tbsp baking soda• 1 tbsp olive oil• 2 tsp white pepper• 2 tsp salt• 1 tsp fresh ground black pepperStuffing• 1 tbsp garlic, minced• 2 tbsp ginger, minced• 2 tbsp spring onions, chopped• 2 tbsp cilantro leaves, chopped• 1 tsp chili flakes• 2 tbsp vegetable oil• 1 tbsp cream sherry• 1 tbsp honeyMACAU PRAWNS António M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Split the back of the prawns and devein. Toss the prawns in 1 tablespoon baking soda, then rinse twice in cold water. Pat dry with paper towels, add 1 tablespoon olive oil and 2 teaspoons white pepper, then mix thoroughly. Set aside.2. For the stuffing, chop the garlic, ginger, spring onions, and cilantro, mix them thoroughly with chili flakes, sherry, and honey. Do not add salt. Set aside.3. Stuff the back of the prawns with the mixed ingredients and leave to marinate for 1 hour.4. Heat cast iron skillet or other heavy-bottomed pan until very hot. Coat the bottom of the pan with vegetable oil.5. Add the prawns, then sprinkle with salt and fresh ground black pepper on each as the prawns are fried. Pan-fry each side until the shells are blistering red, yet the prawns just cooked. Do not overcook the prawns.

95m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Cut off the legs from the prawns, split the back of the shells without cutting them in half.2. Chop the chilies, garlic, and bay leaves, mixing them with the oil and butter. When the butter dissolves and the ingredients well infused, transfer the mixture to a grinder [use a blender today] and grind for a few minutes until it is pureed to a smooth paste.3. [Stuff and marinate the prawns with the chili puree, leave for an hour or so, then fry them in a pan and serve hot.]INGREDIENTS• 18 large prawns (6 inches in length)• 1 cup chili peppers (red cayenne peppers)• ½ cup garlic cloves• ½ cup butter• 5 bay leaves• ¼ cup brandy• ½ cup vegetable oil• paprika to taste• salt to tasteThis is an old recipe written in Macau where giant prawns can be 8 to 12 inches long from head to tail. As these are not available outside of Asia, the recipe is modified to 18 large prawns serving 4 people. The English translation below is as close to the original recipe as possible.(Serves 5) PRAWNS PIRI-PIRI hoT chili PrawnsVicência do RosarioRecipe circa 1920s

96When my girls were very young, we had fun inventing this new way of eating leftover Minchi, stuffed in buns and toasting them over the BBQ. This was in the mid-80s, I believe. It was not long before the recipe evolved from Minchi Buns to Curried Minchi Buns — similar to another Macau dish of Portuguese origin, Pãezinhos Recheados (Stuffed Little Buns), which was modified to become a very popular appetizer.Chinese curry powder uses a lot of turmeric and ground spices — ginger, white pepper, chili, cinnamon, and 5-spice powder. Very distinct and different from other Indian curry powders used in recipes from the Indian sub-continent, its use should result in a medium-hot spicy and fragrant filling. By using the Indian curry powders, the taste of the filling would be more like a meat Samosa. The additional cayenne pepper in the recipe gives an additional “kick,” but can be omitted. (For 5 to 7 buns, depending on size )INGREDIENTS• 1 cup Minchi (see recipe)• ¼ cup peas• 1 tsp Chinese curry powder — “Koon Yick” or other Chinese brand• 5 buns (dinner size) hollowed out carefully• ½ tsp cumin• ¼ tsp coriander• ⅛ tsp cayenne pepperSpice alternative to “Koon Yick”• 1 tsp cumin • ½ tsp white pepper• 2 tsp turmeric• ⅛ tsp cinnamon powder • ¼ tsp cayenne pepper or to taste• ¼ tsp 5-spice powder• 1 tsp sugarMINCHI BUNS OR CURRIED MINCHI BUNS Pãezinhos RecheadosAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Cut a 2-inch wedged flap out of the bottom of the buns. Set the flaps aside, then hollow out the most of the interior of the buns. Set buns and flaps aside. The soft bread removed is not used.2. Heat the spices in a dry pan for about 1 minute, until fragrant.3. Add Minchi and peas, turn heat to medium high and stir to mix well and warm the peas — about 2 minutes.4. Leave to cool, then stuff into the hollowed-out buns.5. Brush olive oil on the surface of the buns and bake in a preheated oven at 350ºF for about 10 minutes or until they are lightly browned and crispy. Instead of using the oven, the stuffed buns can be toasted over the BBQ.

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98Also known as Bolinhos de Bacalhau, particularly in Macau, when it was made smaller and shaped into elongated balls. It is a national favorite in Portugal and served at most festive occasions in Macau. Bacalhau is salted cod that has to be reconstituted by soaking overnight and changing water several times to remove the salt it was preserved in.This is a slightly modified version of the traditional Portuguese recipe.INGREDIENTS• ½ lb bacalhau — soak for 24 hours, change water 3 times • 4 medium-sized potatoes• 3 tbsp parsley, minced• 2 eggs, yolks separated from whites• 2 cups milk (enough to almost cover the bacalhau) • 2 tbsp butter• 1 ½ tsp sea salt or to taste• 1 ts white pepper• Portuguese olive oil and vegetable oil for fryingPASTÉIS DE BACALHAU codfish PasTriesTraditional (Modified by António M. Jorge da Silva)METHOD1. After soaking the bacalhau and draining it, boil the milk, remove from heat and soak the bacalhau in it for about 10 minutes until it starts to flake. Do not add salt. When cooked, drain then remove skin and bones. Peel off the dark parts of the bacalhau as they do not shred easily. Reserve ¼ cup milk in case needed to add to the mashed potatoes if it is too dry. Place the pieces of bacalhau in a food processor and pulse to finely shred in batches. Pull apart pieces that stick together.2. Cook the potatoes in salted water. When cooked, mash the potatoes adding ¼ cup bacalhau milk (from step 1) and 2 tablespoons butter.3. In a bowl, mix the bacalhau, pureed potatoes, chopped parsley, and 1 tablespoon Portuguese olive oil. The ratio of bacalhau to mashed potatoes should be one to one. Mix thoroughly, adding pepper and salt to taste. If not preparing the dish right away, the mixture can be covered and refrigerated for up to 24 hours.4. Separate the egg yolks and the whites. Beat the yolks and set aside. In a separate bowl beat the egg whites (adding a pinch of salt) until they are stiff. Set that aside also.5. Add the egg yolks, a little at a time, to the bacalhau while mixing thoroughly, then fold in the egg whites a little at a time. Fold the mixture until consistency is smooth but not wet; the mixture should be doughy, yet light but not mushy.6. Mold the mixture between two tablespoons or, for smaller balls, two teaspoons. Set on a tray of wax paper, cover with plastic wrap then refrigerate to chill for at least one hour.7. Deep-fry with a mixture of ⅔ Portuguese olive oil and ⅓ vegetable oil. Use ⅓ pan of oil at high temperature

99m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o n— between 350°F to 375°F. Dropping a small piece of bread into the oil can also test the correct temperature. If it browns within one minute, the oil is ready. This is very important because if the heat is not high enough, the oil will soak in and the finished product soggy and oily. Remove when lightly golden and set on paper towels. When all have been fried, set aside to cool, then return them in batches to fry again for a few seconds until golden brown. The second frying will make the surface part crispy. Drain over paper towels in layers until all the pastries (literal translation of pastéis) are fried. Serve warm if possible.

100METHOD1. Oven-dry the bread slices for 5 minutes at 275°F.2. Wash the shrimp in baking soda, rinse and mince. Set aside. 3. Beat the egg white until stiff and set aside. 4. Place the shrimps, ginger juice, green onions, parsley, sherry, cornstarch, salt, and pepper in a bowl and thorough mix, then fold in the stiff egg white. 5. Spread about 1 tablespoon shrimp mixture over one side of each piece of bread, mounding in the middle. Roll the shrimp side onto the breadcrumbs and set aside.6. Heat oil to smoking point. Place one slice of bread, shrimp side down, in a slotted or mesh spoon. Immerse in the oil and fry until the bread turns golden brown, Turn it over and fry for another minute.7. Drain over paper towels and place on pre-heated plate. Serve hot.INGREDIENTS• 1 lb shrimp, shelled and deveined• 1 egg white• 1 tsp ginger juice (squeezed from ginger root)• 1 tbsp sherry• 1 tbsp cornstarch• 1 tbsp parsley, minced• 1 tbsp green onions (green part only), minced• 6 slices white sliced bread, crust sliced off then quartered• 1 cup breadcrumbs• ½ tsp salt• ½ tsp white pepper• vegetable oil for deep-fryingThis tasty appetizer was a favorite of many members of Club de Recreio in Hong Kong. I remember enjoying this great appetizer in the large veranda (before it was enclosed) overlooking the green grass of the sports ground in the late 50s and 60s. SHRIMP TOAST haR Toh-seeClub de Recreio, Hong KongRecipe circa 1960s

Soups

102Caldo Verde is the traditional soup of the Portuguese. It is served in almost every restaurant in Portugal and Portuguese restaurants in Macau. To my knowledge, it is still a favorite with the Goan population in India. The use of Portuguese olive oil is essential as the pungency of that oil when sautéed with garlic produces the aroma and flavor that is very Portuguese. Some now puree the vegetable, onions, and potatoes before serving. Leaving the vegetable in julienned strips is the traditional country style of Portugal. The traditional vegetable used for caldo verde is Portuguese kale, couve galega (brassica oleracea acephala), but in California collard greens are used as the substitute.(Serves 6)INGREDIENTS• 1 bunch collard greens cut into ¼ x 4–6-inch strips (julienned)• 1 linguiça sausage, sliced• 8 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered• 1 large onion, minced• 8 cloves garlic, crushed• 2 bay leaves• 10 tbsp olive oil (Portuguese)• 14 cups water to boil the potatoes• 1 tsp white pepper• salt to tasteMETHOD1. Boil the potatoes in a covered pot with 1 tablespoon salt. When cooked, remove 8 pieces of potatoes, cut or crush them into about ½-inch pieces. Cover and set them aside. Cover the remainder of the potatoes in the water and remove from the heat.2. In a separate pot, add the olive oil and fry the linguiça until both sides are lightly browned. Remove and set aside in a small bowl, covered with plastic wrap.3. Add the chopped onion, garlic, and bay leaves to the pan over medium heat for a couple of minutes until the onions are translucent. Do not brown the onion. Remove the bay leaves and discard.4. Meanwhile, in a separate pot, boil the vegetable strips in 3 cups of water. Lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, then remove from the heat.5. Add the rest of the potatoes and the water they were cooked in to the onions. Crush the potatoes and blend in a blender until smooth, in 2 batches if necessary. 6. Just before serving, pour the blended onion-potato mixture back into the pan. Add the potato pieces that have been set aside, then bring to the boil and leave to simmer for 5 minutes or so. Add the white pepper and stir in. Season to taste if necessary.7. Strain the water off the kale and add to the broth. 8. Add 2 to 3 slices of the linguiça that have been set aside to the bottom of each serving bowl, then ladle the broth with the kale over. Drizzle each serving with Portuguese olive oil and serve hot.CALDO VERDE green vegeTaBle BroThOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1960s

103m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. In a covered pot, boil chicken, 2 pieces of ginger, and the cilantro stalks in 8 cups (2 quarts) of salted water. Skim off scum occasionally. After boiling for 1 hour, remove the chicken. Strain the liquid, leave to cool, then skim off the fat. This can be better accomplished if left in the refrigerator for a few hours for the fat to solidify. Remove the skin from the chicken and discard, then shred the meat and set aside. 2. Put 2 cups of rice in a pot with the broth saved after boiling the chicken. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer over low heat for ½ hour, stirring occasionally so that the rice does not stick to the pot. Then add shredded chicken and the sliced spring onions, stir in and leave to simmer, uncovered, for another 10 minutes.3. Serve with a few cilantro leaves and chopped spring onions added on top.INGREDIENTS• 1 chicken, left whole• 6 sprigs cilantro, stalks left on*• 2 pieces ginger (2 inches each), smashed• 2 stalks spring onions, sliced ¼ inch*• 2 cups rice• 8 cups water• ½ tbsp salt*Reserve 1 tablespoon each of the cilantro leaves and sliced spring onions for garnish.PAPA macau chicken rice BroThPenelope J. Jorge da SilvaPapa, obviously a variation of Chinese Chook is one of the favorite comfort foods of children in Macau and often used by those who really want to enjoy a savory, yet light tasty thick, broth (more like a gruel) of soft rice. In Macau it was often used for those convalescing from minor illnesses. As a matter of interest the term papa is Portuguese meaning mush or gruel.(Serves 6)

104METHOD1. Boil shrimp shells, diced onion, and the crushed ginger in 8 cups (2 quarts) water, then turn heat down and leave to simmer for 20 minutes. Strain and set aside.2. Blend the spices until smooth and set aside.3. In a separate pot, boil a quart of water, add the noodles when water is boiling and stir for ½ minute. When the noodles are al dente, drain off the water, rinse in cold water and set aside. 4. Fry the garlic and the spring onions for about a minute, then add the spice paste and stir for about ½ minute. Add the chicken stock, stir in and pour the contents to the shrimp broth.5. Add the crushed base of the lemon grass stalks and chilies, and bring the broth to the boil, stir for 1 minute, then lower heat to medium, add the shrimps and cook until the shrimps turn pink. Stir in the lime juice, remove and discard the lemon grass stalks.6. Divide the noodles into separate bowls, add prawns to each, then pour the shrimp broth over.7. Garnish with julienned Kaffir lime leaves or cilantro leaf tips and serve hot.INGREDIENTS• 1 lb prawns, peeled, shells set aside• ¾ lb vermicelli rice noodles• 1 tsp garlic, minced• ½ onion, diced • 2-inch piece ginger, crushed• 2 stalks lemon grass, use white part only• 2 stalks spring onions, sliced• 2–4 red chilies to taste• 2 tbsp lime juice• 1 tbsp Kaffir lime leaves or cilantro, julienned for garnish• ¼ cup cilantro stalk tips with leaves for garnish• 1 cup chicken stockSPICE PASTE• ½ cup coconut milk• 2 tbsp balichão sauce• ½ tsp turmeric• ½ tsp cumin• 1 tsp coriander• ½ tsp sweet paprika• ½ tbsp cayenne pepper• 1 tsp white pepper• 1 tsp light brown sugar• 1 tsp salt• 1 tbsp vegetable oilSOPA DE LACASSÁ sPicy Prawn souP António M. Jorge da SilvaLaksa is a spicy noodle soup in Peranakan (Straits-born Chinese) cuisine. This is a variation of a Nhonha dish still very popular in Southeast Asia, but rarely found these days in a Macaense kitchen, perhaps because it is somewhat complicated to make. Like Empada it also used to be served on Christmas Eve, as it was a day of abstinence and fasting for Catholics. This recipe is closer to the traditional Malay Laksa soup as the Macau recipe does not have the spice paste, lime juice, lemon grass, or Kaffir lime leaves, and garlic is seldom used. This soup is spicy hot.(Serves 4 to 6)

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106Sopa Assada is normally made with leftover meats after a party, as are several Macaense dishes. Soup is actually a misnomer as it is made of layered meats, bread, cheese, and, in this case, even macaroni. This recipe is not from leftover meats from a party. It is specifically a baked chicken soup, but then there is the addition of ground beef for some reason. (Serves 6)INGREDIENTS• 1 chicken, halved• 1 lb ground beef• 1 linguiça, sliced• 1 onion, halved then sliced• 3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped• 3 tomatoes, sliced in rings• ½ lb asparagus• ½ lb macaroni, cut 1-inch lengths• 4 slices of bread, fried then cut into ½-inch cubes• olives• shredded cheese, Dubliner or Mild Gouda• Portuguese olive oil• salt and pepper to tasteMETHOD1. Boil the chicken for 15 minutes in 4 cups of salted water (1 tablespoon salt) to create a soup base. Take out the chicken, remove and discard the skin, then shred the chicken. Season the soup base with salt and pepper, then set aside.2. Sauté the onions in olive oil and add the sliced linguiça.3. In a Pyrex dish add the first layer of macaroni, then the ground beef, followed by the slices of linguiça, sliced tomatoes, the shredded chicken, cubed fried bread, shredded cheese, and finally olives spread about 3 inches evenly on top between the asparagus.4. Continue with a second layer in the same order as above until the Pyrex dish is almost full.5. Add the soup over, taking care that all the layers are moistened and not too wet. Use about ½ cup of the soup base and reserve the rest to serve with the baked mixture.6. Put into the oven to bake at 375°F until the top is golden brown.SOPA DE GALINHA ASSADA Baked chicken souPOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1960s

107m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMain Courses

108Arroz Gordo is literally translated as “fat rice” but meaning full bodied and rich. The origin of Chá Gordo probably came from a substantial meal served on “Quinguagésima Sunday” (Sunday before Lent, fifty days before Easter), after which fasting would begin and last for forty days from Ash Wednesday to Easter Sunday. However, an intriguing observation of its origin is said by Margarida Gomes in her interesting booklet to be “an adaptation of ‘Paella’ that arrived (in Macau) from Valencia, via Latin America or the Philippines.”*This wonderful dish would be the feature whenever Gerry (Betty Ozorio McDougall’s son) had a large crowd for dinner. Gerry, one of the better cooks of Asian cuisine I have known, takes pride in his cooking and glows whenever a large tray of his Arroz Gordo adorns the center of his table.(Serves 12 to 14)* Gomes, Maria Margarida, A Cozinha Macaense, 9.INGREDIENTS• 12–14 ham hocks (fresh) • 2 chickens (fryers) • 12–18 pork chops (thin cuts and pounded flat) • 4 chouriço or linguiça links — steamed• 4 tomatoes, medium size — diced • 2 cans tomato paste, medium sized — 8 to 12 oz• 10 eggs, 4 hard-boiled and sliced, and 6 raw • ½ lb shallots• ¼ lb croutons — fresh fried in olive oil• ¼ lb raisins• 3 heads garlic, minced• ½ lb breadcrumbs• 8 cups rice• 1 cube butter (traditionally lard)• dark soy as required• peanut oil as required• salt and pepper as requiredMETHODThings to do the night before1. Boil the ham hocks in lightly salted water with the diced tomatoes. Bring to the boil and simmer for 1½ hours. Allow to cool, then remove the ham hocks, place in a covered container, and store in the refrigerator. Do not strain off the tomato and bits and pieces. Keep the liquid in the refrigerator overnight and allow to jell. In the morning, skim off and remove the layer of fat.2. Mince the garlic.3. Pound pork chops flat, lightly salt and pepper, and press minced garlic on both sides of each chop. Store in covered container and refrigerate.4. Steam the chouriço, leave to cool and refrigerate. Do not slice until the next day.5. Peel and dice shallots.6. Hard boil the 4 eggs.7. Defrost the chicken fryers overnight if frozen fryers are used.ARROZ GORDO Baked Assorted Meats and RiceBetty McDougallRecipe circa 1970s

109m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nThings to do 2 to 3 hours before the dinner or earlier 1. Skim off the fat from the liquid saved and allow jellified liquid to cool. This liquid is to be used to boil the rice later (Ergo: Arroz Gordo!!)2. Dry the chickens, lightly sprinkle with salt and white pepper, then press liberal amounts of garlic against the entire chicken. Salt and pepper the cavities. Roast the chicken pieces in a preheated oven at 350ºF for 30 minutes, then baste every 30 minutes with a mixture of ½ cup peanut oil and ½ cup of dark soy.3. Do not overcook. Roast for 1 ½ to 1 ¾ hours, no more! When chickens are crisp and brown, allow to cool. Do not cut up the chicken until the dish is ready to be assembled.4. Heat olive oil, brown a tablespoon of chopped garlic and sauté the ham hocks with a little salt and black pepper. Do not overcook.5. Beat up 6 eggs, dip each pork chop into the eggs, then dip the chop into the breadcrumbs. Fry in peanut oil (medium fire) until golden brown. Remove the chops and drain off excess oil on paper towels.6. Using a large rice cooker, boil the rice in the jellified water inclusive of all the tomato bits and pieces. When rice is cooked, stir in the tomato paste and butter, then transfer into large dish.7. Chop the chicken into bite-size pieces.8. Fry the shallots in olive oil until golden brown. Remove and drain off excess oil on a paper towel. Set aside.Things to do 15 to 20 minutes before dinner 1. Assemble the dish by placing the pork chops on top of the rice; then the ham hocks, then the chicken. Finish off by adding the sliced chouriço or linguiça, sliced eggs, raisins, fried shallots, and croutons.2. If the oven is large enough, place the entire dish in the oven to warm before serving.3. Serve with stir-fried sliced cabbage cooked in butter, salt, pepper, and garlic.

110Beef steaks or similar cuts in Macau before the mid-twentieth century were often tough and stringy. Small strips flattened with a mallet not only made the meat easier to chew but also allowed the marinade to soak in. The ingredients are similar to those used in a Chinese beef stir-fry.(Serves 4)INGREDIENTS• 1 lb skirt or pan steaks, slice diagonally across the grain to ½-inch slices, then flatten with mallet• all-purpose flourMarinade• ½ tbsp garlic, minced• 2 tbsp ginger, minced• ¼ cup green onions, thinly sliced ¼ inch or less• 2 tbsp dark soy• ½ tbsp sesame oil• 3 tbsp sweet sherry• 2 tbsp brown sugar• 1 tsp rice vinegarBIFE macau sTyle Beef slicesAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Mix all the above marinade ingredients. Cover both sides of the meat slices with the marinade and leave for 2 hours or more.2. Drain the meat slices back into the bowl, pat dry then lightly coat both sides with a little flour. 3. Brown both sides of the meat. Remove and set aside on a warm platter.4. Add ½ cup water to deglaze the pan then add to the marinade. Simmer for about 3 minutes to create a sauce before serving.5. Pour sauce over the steaks and serve.

111m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Mix all the above marinade ingredients. Cover both sides of the meat slices with the marinade and leave for 2 hours or more. Turn over the slices of meat occasionally.2. Drain the meat slices back into the bowl. Pat dry the meat.3. Mix the flour with 1 ½ teaspoons salt and 2 teaspoons black pepper. Coat both sides of the sliced meat with the flour mixture. 4. In a hot pan brown both sides of the meat then remove and set aside on a warm platter.5. Add ½ cup red wine to deglaze the pan then add the remaining marinade and the wine. Bring to the boil and simmer to reduce 70 per cent.6. Pour sauce over the steaks and serve.INGREDIENTS• 4 lb chuck beef steak, thin-sliced then flattened with a mallet • 1 bottle red wine, rendered • ½ cup flour• vegetable oil• salt and black pepper to tasteMarinade• 1 tsp garlic, chopped• 2 onions, chopped• 4 tbsp tomato paste• 1 tsp turmeric• 2 tbsp light soy • 1 ½ tbsp. paprika • 1 tbsp brown sugarFlávio’s Bife Macau is one of my family’s favorite. I was unable to reproduce Flávio’s dish but got a copy of his recipe many years later. As there is not enough information written by Flávio, I have to improvise.(Serves 4 to 6) BIFE MACAU by Flávio Flávio da Luz Macau Style Beef SlicesRecipe circa 1970s

112Some in the Macaense community have suggested that the name of this dish came from capela, meaning chapel in Portuguese. Traditionally, a thin membrane of fat tissue that envelopes pigs’ intestines (mesentery) — redenho de porco — coated the upper part of the meatloaf but nowadays this product is not readily available in the market and is replaced by fat meat such as bacon. Probably this coat of fat tissue gave the name of Capela to the dish, which in archaic Portuguese means coat — capela or capa. It is believed that this typical Macaense dish came from an original recipe from the northern part of Portugal, Beira Litoral, called Anel de Carne or Rolo frio à moda antiga. In Macau and Hong Kong, Capela was served for many special dinners and festive occasions.Cooking the meatloaf in bain-marie is a typical Cantonese way of preparing the dish. This preserves the moisture in the meat itself. (Serves 6 to 8 persons)INGREDIENTS• 2 lb pork (with some fat)• ¼ lb Edam Cheese, grated, divided• 8 strips bacon• 2 egg whites• 4 egg yolks (preferably one of duck)Ingredients of Group A:• 6 black olives, chopped• 2 tbsp butter• ⅓ cup shallots, minced• 4 cloves garlic, minced• ¼ cup linguiça or bacon, minced• ½ tsp sugar Ingredients of Group B:• ¼ cup mix of pine nuts and almond, minced • ¼ lb overnight bread (crumbled and soaked in water) • 4 tbsp breadcrumbs• ¼ cup Port wine • salt and pepper, to taste CAPELACatarina Canavarro RamosMETHOD1. Beat the egg whites until fluffy. Save some of egg yolk for coating the meatloaf later, as well some pine nuts and almonds for decoration. Keep also about 1 ounce of grated cheese for the same purpose.2. Manually chop the pork and 2 strips of bacon, and add to the ingredients of group A.3. Mix it with the remaining ingredients (group B) and the eggs, yolk and white.4. Form a ring of about 8 cm with the meat on a plate greased with some butter. 5. Cover the meatloaf with the remaining strips of bacon, sliced in half, the pine nuts, and almond.6. Cook this dish in a bain-marie, slow cooking, for 8 to 10 minutes, covering it so that the water from the steam does not get into the dish. 7. Let the dish cool down for about 5 minutes, brush the surface of the meatloaf with egg yolk to coat and sprinkle it with additional grated cheese.8. Cook the meatloaf in a pre-heated oven at 450°F for 15 minutes, then reducing the heat to 250°F, with heat on top, for additional 45 minutes.9. Serve with salad, rice, or fried potatoes.

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114INGREDIENTS• 4 Dungeness crabs, about 4 cups crabmeat• 1 (or ½ cup) onion, minced• ½ cup shallots, minced• ½ tsp turmeric• 12 (or 2 tbsp) black olives, pitted and minced• 3 egg yolks• 1 egg white, stiffly beaten• 2 cloves (or 1 tsp) garlic, minced• 4 tbsp breadcrumbs• 1 tsp white pepper• 1 tsp sea salt (or to taste)• Parmesan cheese (optional)• Béchamel sauce• Portuguese olive oilCasquinhas is Portuguese for “little shells.” As in Macau where live crabs were used for this dish, this is always recommended instead of store-purchased cooked crabmeat. The Macau crabs are smaller than Dungeness crabs and the finished dish fits nicely in the crab shells. This recipe using 4 average-sized crabs (about 1½ pounds each) would serve 4 to 6 people. The shells, however, are too large to be used and this dish would fit better in large scallop shells. The crabs are first cooked then the meat removed and shredded before use.(Serves 4 to 6) CASQUINHAS craBmeaT in Their shells António M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Steam the crabs for about 20 to 25 minutes until they are cooked. Do not overcook. Crack open the crabs, remove the unwanted tissues then crack the shells and remove all the meat. Shred the meat, put in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set aside. Clean out the shells and set aside.2. Prepare the Béchamel sauce: Melt the butter, then add the flour and mix to a smooth paste with a wooden spoon. Stir over moderate heat until the mixture foams without the butter turning more than a “buttery yellow.” When the bubbling stops, add ¾ cup of the milk (set ¼ cup aside for thinning out the sauce later) and whisk vigorously to blend thoroughly, then continue to stir slowly over moderately high heat until the sauce comes to a simmer. Continue stirring, leaving it to simmer for about 2 minutes. Thin out the sauce occasionally by adding the remaining ¼ cup hot milk a little at a time. When all the milk is added and the sauce is thick enough to coat the spoon evenly, add the salt and pepper and mix well, tasting to see if more is needed. Set aside.3. Fry the garlic, onions, and shallots in olive oil until translucent but do not brown. Add turmeric and continue to fry for another minute.4. Over very low heat add the crabmeat, salt, and pepper, and stir to mix thoroughly. Add the minced olives and Béchamel sauce, mixing it well. Add and fold in the stiffly beaten egg white.5. Fill the crab shells evenly pressing firmly into the shell, then cover the crabmeat of each shell with the beaten egg yolks (½ egg yolk per shell), followed by covering with breadcrumbs on top.

115m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o n7. Sprinkle a little Parmesan cheese over the tops, then place the shells in a pre-heated oven at 400ºF (high oven shelf) until top begins to brown. Turn oven heat to broil with door partly open for 2 minutes. Remove when the tops are golden brown and crispy (The way this was done in the 1950s and before: Fry shell side down in hot oil, when crust forms, turnover and fry the other side).8. Serve hot in the shells.Béchamel sauce:• 1 ½ tbsp butter• 1 ½ tbsp flour• 1 cup hot milk, divided• ¼ tsp Kosher salt • ¼ tsp white pepper

116This is a unique Macaense dish normally prepared the day following a banquet prepared at home. It is from the leftover meats of such a banquet that the dish was prepared. As such, the meats used are not always the same. Also used are a few Chinese meats and ingredients that may not be part of the banquet but essential to the taste. The name of this dish Diabo literally means devil. My mother told me that it was so named because the variety of meats symbolizes the diverse people who are in hell. The description in some cookbooks that the dish is “spicy as hell” is incorrect as this dish is not spicy at all, though there are variations from the original that might be. The one or two chilies my mother used instead of pepper does not make the dish spicy. Some also say the variety of ingredients in this dish symbolizes the fusion of races as in the Macaense people, but what has this to do with the term devil?The proportion of ingredients such as onions and garlic, for example, depends on the amount of leftover meats used. The leftover meats can consist of: Vaca Estufada, pork chops, roast chicken or duck, roast lamb, or any other meat used in the banquet. Not listed in my mother’s recipe and used in most Diabos I have tasted are Chinese ingredients such as Chinese Roast Duck (Siu Ngap), Roast Pork (Char Siu), pickled shallots (kiu tao). There is no vegetable in this dish except for onions, garlic, shallots, and tomatoes.INGREDIENTS• 3 lb diverse meats cut to about 2-inch pieces• 2 lb onions, sliced• ½ lb shallots, sliced• 2 cloves garlic, chopped• 3 lb tomatoes, chopped• 2 tbsp powdered Coleman’s mustard• 2 cups leftover meat gravies combined or beef broth• 6 oz Port wine or sherry• 5 hard boiled, chopped• 1 lb potatoes, boiled and cut into 2-inch pieces• wine vinegar (red or white)• olive oil or vegetable oil• salt and pepper to tasteMETHOD1. Add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Fry the shallots, drain and set aside. Add the sliced onions and garlic to the oil and fry until the onions are translucent, then add the tomatoes and cook until soft.2. Add all the meat, then add the leftover gravy or beef broth. Season to taste, stir well, and leave to cook over medium heat until the sauce thickens — about 30 minutes.3. Mix the mustard powder with wine vinegar to make a paste, then add the Port wine and stir to mix. Add this to the meat in the pot and mix thoroughly.4. Add the potatoes and stir in. Lower the heat to simmer and cover the pot. Leave to simmer for another 15 minutes or so to blend the flavors.5. Serve in the pot or a platter.DIABO À OLGA devilled meaT sTew Olga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1960s

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118Bosco Correa, the author of this recipe, Julinho Ribeiro, Paul Silva, Carlos Noronha, Fernão Vas, and I, to name a few I can remember, went on an outing to the hills of Sai-kung in Kowloon in February1966. Bosco, who was to cook the Diabo, wrote to me saying that he gave Julinho “the task of bringing the water with him, but typical of him, he forgot to do so, instead he brought a good supply of San Miguel beer. I was truly annoyed and confiscated his beer using it in the Diabo, which as you remember turned out very well. To this day I use beer in my Diabo.”*1 The use of Chinese cuts of meat is obvious in this recipe, as this dish is not from leftovers of a Macaense banquet, but one that can be cooked anytime.(Serves 8 to 10) * Correa, J. Bosco, letter to the author, Brisbane, Australia, September 8, 2013.INGREDIENTS• 1 Cantonese Roast Duck (Siu Ngap), chopped into half serving pieces• 1 Cantonese Roast Chicken (Siu Kai), chopped into half serving pieces• 2 lb Cantonese Roast Pork (Siu Yuk),** cut into ¾ x ¾ x 1 ½-inch pieces • 1 lb roast leg of lamb, cut into ¾ x ¾ x 1 ½-inch pieces• 1 lb Vaca Estufada with gravy, cut into ¾ x ¾ x 1 ½-inch piecesDIABO À BOSCO CORREAJ. Bosco Correa** There are two different kinds of Cantonese roast pork, Siu Yuk and Char Siu. Siu Yuk is made by roasting an entire pig with seasoning over a charcoal fire at high temperature, while Char Siu, usually referred to as Chinese barbecue pork, are seasoned, honey-basted boneless long pork strips skewered with long forks and cooked over a hot fire or covered oven. • 6 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and quartered• 3 large onions, peeled and finely diced• 1 ½ cups tomato paste• 20 pickled scallions (kiu tao), halved lengthwise• 1 cup sliced pickled sweet & sour ginger (suen kiong) sliced again into ½-inch strips• 6 tbsp Worcestershire sauce (Lea & Perrins)• 2 tbsp prepared English mustard (Coleman’s)• 3 hard-boiled eggs — separate yolk from the white and finely dicing the white• 4 cups beer• 1 cup Port wine (optional)• 3 tbsp sugar• ½ cup olive or vegetable oil• salt and pepper to taste

119m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. In a large pot fry the onions until soft and golden. Stir in the tomato paste and bring to a simmer.2. Add all the meats with gravy, the pickles, and 5 tablespoon of the Worcestershire sauce. Mix well with the tomato paste and until the meats are well coated, then add the potatoes, sugar, salt and pepper, and add in the beer. Stir to mix thoroughly then bring to the boil.3. Lower heat and simmer until the potatoes are cooked, stirring occasionally.4. Mash the hard-boiled egg yolks in a small bowl, then mix in the mustard, 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce and the Port wine, if desired, for an “extra kick.” Stir until well blended, then add the mixture to the meat.5. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary. Add more beer if more gravy is desired.6. Just before serving, sprinkle the diced egg white over the Diabo.

120This is an old recipe that differs in, yet confirms, the variety of meats used in this dish. The recipe and method of preparation has no specific reference to quantities or many of the ingredients as shown in the English translation. Many old recipes often use what is available and according to the whim of the cook, Diabo in particular.LEFTOVER MEATS, VEGETABLES, AND SPICES TO BE [OR THAT CAN] BE INCLUDED:• Vaca Estufada* • Curried Chicken• Duck Cabidela**• Fried Pork Chops • Roast Pork• Roast Duck• Roast or Stewed Lamb • Onions• Potatoes with carrots• Vegetables• Lea & Perrins sauce• Salt and pepper• Paprika • Soy sauce • Gravy from the meat • dishes• Pickles or tomatoesMETHOD1. Sauté the marinades, the chopped shallots, onions, garlic, fresh tomatoes, tomato paste, paprika, 2 cloves, a little cinnamon stick, and turmeric, then add all the diverse meats, all the potatoes, etc. If the gravy is insufficient add a little water and leave to cook until the vegetables are soft.2. Beat the mustard well with 6 or 8 raw egg yolks, then add Portuguese olive oil and continue to beat to mix well.3. When the Diabo meats are tender, add the mustard and egg mixture, and mix thoroughly.4. Add half a cup of Port wine or if one wants to add brandy, use only a quarter cup.* Stewed beef** Duck cooked in its own bloodDIABO — an old reciPeFilomena “Menica” Romana da SilvaRecipe circa 1920s

121m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMy very dear friend Zé taught me much about Macaense cooking when I was working in Hong Kong in the mid-1990s. This was one of the traditional dishes from Macau that is very rarely cooked today. The Macau patua term parida comes from the Portuguese word parir, meaning to give birth. This dish, as with Vaca Chau-chau Parida, was prepared to fortify women after giving birth in the old days of Macau.(Serves 4)INGREDIENTS• 1 chicken, cut into segments • ½ onion, minced• 3 potatoes, peeled and quartered• 1 tbsp light soy (sang chau in Cantonese)• 2 tsp white pepper• ½ tsp cornstarch• 2 cups water (when cooking)Marinade• 2 shallots, minced• 6 cloves garlic, minced• 1 piece ginger, 2-inch segment, sliced into ¼-inch strips• 2 tsp turmeric• 1 tbsp medium dry sherry, or Chinese sam ching wine• 1 tbsp saltGALINHA PARIDA Turmeric ginger chickenJosé dos Santos Ferreira Jr.METHOD1. Marinate the chicken for about 4 hours.2. Fry the onions until translucent, then add the chicken and fry over high heat for 2 minutes.3. Add the marinade, the light soy and white pepper, and continue to cook over high heat for another 2 minutes.4. Add the potatoes and leave to cook over medium heat, covered, for about ½ hour or until the chicken and potatoes are cooked.5. Mix the cornstarch with a little cold water and stir to mix well. Add to the chicken in the pot and leave to cook for about 3 minutes to thicken the gravy, stirring occasionally.6. Serve with white rice.

122Inspired by Macaense Feijoada, here I choose to use beef only for a deeper taste, with no cabbage, ham hocks, or smoked ham. Away from the Macaense environment, this recipe has evolved over the years as the new generation finds it hard to eat ham hocks and even cabbage in this bean stew. They enjoy this recipe.(Serves 6 to 8)INGREDIENTS• 2 lb beef stew, 2-inch segments• 1 Portuguese linguiça, sliced• 2 onions, quartered and sliced• 4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped• 4 tomatoes, roughly chopped• 1 carrot, diced• 1 tbsp tomato paste• 3 bay leaves• 4 sprigs thyme• 2 tsp paprika• ½ cup aguardente velha or brandy• 4 cans (4 lb) red kidney beans, drained and rinsed in cold water• ¼ cup fresh Italian parsley, chopped (for garnish)• Portuguese olive oil• salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteFEIJOADA À MINHA MANEIRA Feijoada my wayAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Cover the bottom of a Dutch oven (casserole) with olive oil, then sauté the linguiça slices until lightly browned on both sides. Remove the sausage slices to a bowl and set aside.2. Add the bay leaves, thyme, sliced onion, and the garlic to the oil, and sauté over medium heat until the onions are soft and translucent.3 Add the aguardente or brandy, raise heat to medium and leave to simmer until the brandy reduces 50%.4. Raise the heat to medium-high, then add the meat and fry to seal all sides, adding salt and pepper while frying. 5. Add the paprika, chilies, salt, and pepper, then half of the linguiça and continue to stir-fry until all sides of the meat are sealed.6. Deglaze the pan with a cup of red wine, reduce the wine by 50%, then pour into the Dutch oven over the meat.7. Add the diced tomatoes, carrots, and tomato paste, stir in and loosely cover. Cook over medium heat until the tomatoes are soft.8. Transfer the Dutch oven, covered, to a preheated oven at 225°F. Leave to cook slowly for 2 ½ hours.9. Remove from oven, uncover and add the beans. Stir to mix, then cover and return to the oven for 30 minutes.10. Remove from oven, uncover and stir. Taste for doneness. When the beans are tender, garnish with chopped parsley and serve with warm French bread.

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124METHOD 1. In a large saucepan add oil to cover the bottom, fry the slices of linguiça, lightly browning both sides. Remove the sausage slices from the pot and set aside in a small bowl or plate. 2. Add the bay leaf, garlic, and onions, and fry over medium heat until translucent. 3. Add the pork and the beef. Raise heat to high and stir to seal all sides.** 4. Add the Port wine, stir in and leave to cook for 5 minutes. 5. Add the tomatoes, stir in and cook loosely covered over medium heat until the tomatoes are soft. 6. Add the sausage slices, the pork hock. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. 7. Add the beef stock, bring to the boil, then cover the pot and simmer over very low heat for 2½ hours. Stir occasionally to prevent the meat from sticking to the bottom of the pot.In Macau this Feijoada would be cooked on the stovetop. Now in California, I cook it in the oven at 250°F for 2 ½ hours. This reduces the necessity of stirring and guarantees the meat to be very tender. 8. Remove the pot from the oven and continue to cook over the stovetop over low heat. 9. Add the cabbage and cook for 20 minutes, then add the beans, stir in, cover again and continue to simmer over low heat until the beans are cooked (about ½ hour if using pre-cooked beans).10. Serve with French bread or over rice.* Cooked canned beans are used to simplify preparation. If using uncooked beans, soak the beans overnight to soften. Rinse and set aside.** “Seal” is a term I use to mean lightly brown, often with the purpose of sealing in the juices of the meat.INGREDIENTS• ½ lb pork shoulder, 2-inch cubes• 1 lb beef, 2-inch cubes• 1 pork hock, butcher cut into 2 pieces (optional)• 2 onions, sliced• 1 Portuguese sausage — linguiça, ¼-inch slices • 4 lb red kidney beans — canned* (uncooked beans are normally used)• 4 tomatoes, halved and sliced• 1 head cabbage or Swiss chard, cut into 1-inch strips• 1 bay leaf• 3 cloves garlic, chopped• ½ cup Port wine• 2 cups beef stock• ¼ cup Portuguese olive oil• salt and pepper to tasteFeijoada, originally a Portuguese bean stew made with white beans and meat, is made differently in Macau using red kidney beans, and in Brazil, using black beans. Cabbage is also used in the Macau version of this dish. The ingredients and the meat used also vary, depending on both availability and tradition. Tradition inasmuch as the use of a pig’s snout and ears would be used in a typical country recipe in Portugal and possibly Brazil, but not in Macau. The use of a pork hock with skin seems to be all that is left of that tradition.(Serves 6) FEIJOADA MACAENSE Bean and meaT sTew — Macaense sTyleOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1960s

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126GALINHA AFRICANA african chickenAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaAfrican Chicken, or Galinha Africana to the Macaenses, has been one of the most famous dishes in the restaurants of Macau since the late 70s. Every restaurant has its own recipe for this dish. Some add peanut butter to the recipes, others coconut milk, or a combination of the two; but none has the original recipe. The recipe for this dish remains one of the lost treasures of Macau. Many restaurants have it on their menus, but the real taste eludes them all.Galinha Africana is probably based on Galinha Cafreal from Mozambique on the East coast of Africa, though some say it came to Macau via Goa. Galinha Piri-piri, which appears more recently in Portuguese restaurants, particularly on the Algarve, is likely of West African origin, but very different from this dish. Américo Ângelo, chef of the restaurant Pousada de Macau in the late 1950s (previously Hotel Carmen), invented this dish and delighted his guests. This charming pousada (inn) had an elegant interior dining area overlooking the water and the large banyan trees that lined the beautiful and romantic Praia Grande. I have had the good fortune to taste the original dish many times in this once famous pousada. My aunt, Da. Carmen Sales da Silva, owned Hotel Carmen but later sold the property to a syndicate, which included Américo Ângelo. They refurbished the premises and renamed it Pousada de Macau.In the late 1960s, the property was sold for development. Américo took his talent to the Estoril Hotel and when the new casino-hotel was built by the Sociadade de Turismo e Diversões de Macau (STDM), he moved to Restaurante Portas do Sol in the Lisboa Hotel, where he proudly served this dish as well as the very piquant spicy prawns listed on the menu as “Deviled Prawns.” The latter is another of Américo’s recipes, but time has forgotten to credit this great chef for yet another of Macau’s favorite dishes.When I first tasted Deviled Prawns it was on the menu in Hotel Estoril, which preceded the Lisboa Casino-Hotel. After the second bite my mouth was close to hell, but my whole being in Food Heaven. Very similar to Gambas ao Alhinho (garlic prawns), Américo’s prawns were very spicy. In fact, much like the spice of his Galinha Africana, but with a distinct taste of Portuguese olive oil.Américo Ângelo died in Macau on September 5, 1979 at the age of 61.This is yet another attempt to reproduce or approach the delicious spicy recipe of the Macau chef Américo Ângelo. Many restaurants list this dish on their menu, all are different but none tastes like Ângelo’s Galinha Africana. My recipe too is but an attempt to replicate what may have been lost forever.(Serves 6)

127m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHODSauce 1. For the sauce, sauté the onions, garlic, and bay leaves until the onions are soft and translucent. 2. Add the chilies, tomato paste, half the coconut milk, salt, and the Madeira wine, stir in and bring to the boil, then lower the heat and continue to cook for about 2 minutes.3. Leave to cool, remove the bay leaves, then add the peanuts, olive oil, and the other half of the coconut milk. Pour into a blender and grind until smooth. Set aside.Roasting the Chicken1. Wash the chicken and pat dry. Split chicken in half and butterfly leaving the two halves attached at the breastbone. Flatten as much as possible by cutting off the breast cartilage. Lay chicken skin-side down on a Pyrex roasting dish.2. Mix the spices in a bowl, then add the yogurt and mix into the spices. 3. Spread on the meat side of the chicken and press onto the surfaces, then turn the chicken over and spread the marinade under the skin without separating it too much. Refrigerate for a minimum of 3 hours, but preferably overnight.4. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator; leave for about half an hour to let it come up to room temperature.5. Preheat the oven to 425°F, then place the Pyrex dish with the chicken skin side up in the oven. Leave to roast for 45 minutes until the chicken is cooked. 6. Remove from heat and transfer the chicken onto a serving platter. Garnish with chopped cilantro and ground peanuts. Arrange lemon wedges. Serve the sauce on the side.7. Serve with grilled tomatoes and cubed potatoes boiled with tumeric. Drizzle with olive oil over the potatoes just before serving.Note: If barbecuing the chicken, do it indirectly with the lid closed. When cooked, follow steps 6 and 7 above.INGREDIENTS• 1 chicken or 8 chicken thighs• 1 lemon, cut into wedges for garnish• 1 tbsp cilantro, chopped for garnish• ½ cup honey-roasted peanuts, medium ground for garnisSpice Rub Marinade• ½ tsp turmeric• ½ tsp cumin• 2 tsp paprika• 1 tsp cayenne pepper• 2 tsp garlic, minced• 2 red hot chilies, minced• ½ cup yogurt• 1 tsp sea salt• 2 tsp white wine vinegar• ¼ cup Portuguese olive oil Sauce• 1 sweet onion, chopped• 1 tsp garlic, chopped• 4 red hot chilies, minced• 2 tsp tomato paste• 1 cup honey-roasted peanuts• 1 cup coconut milk, divided • ¼ cup sweet Madeira wine• 2 bay leaves• ¼ cup Portuguese olive oil• 1 tsp sea salt or to taste

128GALINHA SAFFRANG chicken wiTh Turmeric sauceOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaModified by António M. Jorge da SilvaIn Maquista this dish is called Galinha Saffrang; my mother called it Galinha com Molho de Açafrão, both of which are really incorrect as no saffron is used, but powdered turmeric (curcuma in Portuguese) instead. Using the term and misnamed assafrão by some in Macau, this dish probably originated in Malacca. Ca-lei Kai (curried chicken) is a Cantonese derivation of this dish using curry powder instead of wong-keung fun (turmeric) and chilies to make it spicy hot.My mother cooked this dish using a whole chicken with no flour, and only after it was cooked was the sherry added and mixed into the sauce. Before serving, the chicken was removed and cut into segments. This recipe has been modified to cut the chicken into segments before cooking and the sherry cooked with the chicken.(Serves 4)

129m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Wash chicken, then pat dry with paper towels.2. Fry garlic in cast iron Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Before the garlic begins to turn light brown, add the chopped shallots, chilies, and the ginger. Stir and continue to fry for another minute or so, then add the vinegar and stir in to mix.3. Add the chicken segments, continue to cook over medium-high heat to lightly brown the sides. 4. Pour ½ cup water into the pot. Stir and scrape off the residue from the sides and bottom. Mix the turmeric, sherry, jagra, and Port in a cup and pour into the pot. Mix to coat all sides of the chicken. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons salt evenly over the chicken and mix in.5. Cook on stovetop for 1 hour over low heat (This dish can also be baked in the oven at 300ºF for 1 hour). Stir at halfway point, taste and add salt as necessary.6. Check if the chicken is cooked and almost falling from the bone. If not, cover the casserole and cook for another ½ hour. Serve with gravy over white rice or with saffron-roasted potatoes.Note: This dish can be served with turmeric roast potatoes or over rice, with deep-fried chopped shallots and croutons scattered over the rice. Arrange the chicken pieces on top. Serve with gravy on the side.Turmeric roast potatoes1. Parboil potatoes in 1 tablespoon turmeric for 20 minutes. Remove and set aside.2. Use the congealed fat formed at the top if the dish is made the day before and refrigerated. Add a little olive oil and mix in. Put the potatoes into a shallow roasting pan. Baste top of potatoes then put into a preheated oven at 375°F to roast for 1 hour. Potatoes should be golden brown and crispy on top.INGREDIENTS• 1 chicken, cut into segments• 1 tbsp turmeric powder• 3 cloves garlic, crushed• ¼ cup shallots, chopped, or spring onions• 2 tbsp ginger, cut into strips• 1 tbsp rice vinegar• ½ cup sweet sherry• ¼ cup Ruby Port• 1 tsp jagra or brown sugar• 2 tsp Kosher salt• ½ tsp green, red, and black pepper mix, freshly ground• 2 red chilies, split and seeded (optional)• ½ tsp chili flakes (optional)• 2 tbsp vegetable oil

130This is a variation of Galinha Saffrang using coconut milk and yogurt.(Serves 4)INGREDIENTS• 1 chicken, cut into segments, fat removed • 1 tbsp turmeric powder• 3 cloves garlic, crushed• 3 stalks spring onions, chopped• 2 tbsp ginger, cut into strips• 1 tbsp rice vinegar• ¼ cup sweet sherry• 1 tsp jagra, crushed• ½ tsp green, red and black pepper mix, freshly ground• 2 red chilies, split and seeded (optional)• ½ tsp chili flakes• 2 tsp Kosher salt• 2 tbsp vegetable oilMarinade• ½ cup coconut milk• ½ cup plain yogurt• 1 tsp turmeric• 1 tsp amchur (mango powder)• 1 tsp cayenne powder• 2 tbsp ginger, gratedGALINHA SAFFRANG CURRY chicken curry wiTh Turmeric sauceAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Wash chicken, remove visible fat, then pat dry with paper towels.2. Mix the marinade, add to chicken segments covering all sides, then refrigerate overnight.3. Fry garlic in cast iron Dutch oven over medium-high heat. 4. Meanwhile mix all the listed ingredients, and set aside.5. Before the garlic begins to turn light brown, add the chicken segments with the marinade, continue to cook over medium-high heat to seal all sides.6. Add the mixed ingredients, stir in, and continue to cook over medium heat for another minute. 7. Baked in the oven at 300ºF for 1 hour. Stir at halfway point. Add salt to taste as necessary.8. Check if the chicken is cooked and almost falling from the bone. If not, cover the casserole and cook for another ½ hour.9. Serve with okra and gravy over white rice.

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132METHOD1. Soak the dried mushrooms in ½ cup boiling water, covered, for 30 minutes. Remove the mushrooms, squeeze out the liquid back into the water in which the mushrooms were soaked and save the liquid (mushroom water). Slice the mushrooms into strips and set aside.2. In a small bowl, mix the light and dark soy, vinegar, mushroom water, chicken broth, and sugar, then set aside.3. Using a heavy pot with cover, fry the garlic over medium heat until lightly browned. Remove the garlic and set aside. 4. Add the chicken segments and stir over medium-high heat until the segments are sealed on all sides.5. Add the mushrooms, onions, garlic, and raw sliced radish into the pot, then pour the soy mixture over the chicken.6. Drizzle 2 teaspoons honey evenly over. Cover and place in a pre-heated oven at 275F° for 1 ½ hour.7. Serve with white rice. Pour gravy over the rice and the chicken.INGREDIENTS• 1 chicken (or 6 chicken thighs), segmented • 1 large daikon radish, peeled, cut into 1½-inch slices• 2 tbsp light soy• 3 tbsp dark soy• 1 tbsp Chinese rice vinegar• 4 cloves garlic, crushed• 2 tbsp vegetable oil• 2 onions, peeled, cross-cut halfway and left whole• 8 dry shitake mushrooms, soaked• 1 tbsp brown sugar• ½ cup chicken broth• 2 tsp clover honeyThis is a typical Macau dish and one of the few based totally on Chinese cuisine. The majority of Macaense dishes are based on Portuguese cuisine with eastern (including Indian and Malay) influence. Only a few are basically Asian, with little or no Portuguese influence; this is one of them.This is a combination of my mother’s recipes for Galinha Molho and Porco Sutate as the ingredients and methods of cooking are almost alike. This recipe can be made with chicken or pork. It may seem strange to use whole onions instead of cutting them, but that is what the original recipe states and it actually works. I have altered the soy (sutate in Maquista) and vinegar proportions to suit my taste. The addition of honey and brown sugar are also my modifications as is the use of chicken broth instead of water. Rábano in Portuguese is actually a French turnip. My mother’s recipe calls for a Chinese turnip, which translates here into the large carrot-shaped white daikon radish.(Serves 4)GALINHA COM RÁBANO chicken wiTh daikon radishOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1960s

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134Margoso Lorcha, also known as Amargoso Lorcha, takes its name from the shape of the halved and hollowed-out bitter squash resembling the shape of a Macaense fighting vessel of the seventeenth century, called a lorcha. Amargoso is the Portuguese name for bitter squash. A lorcha was a small, but very fast, armed fighting junk with a European hull and Chinese rigging used mainly in fighting off the Chinese pirate junks in the coastal waters of Macau and the South China Sea.José dos Santos Ferreira, my very dear friend Zé, used to cook this with me on weekends in a park in Sai Kung, Kowloon, when I was working in Hong Kong between 1994 and 2000. Zé and I would pack our guitars and all the ingredients for this dish and prepare it on the picnic table in our favorite spot in the park. We would start in the morning, cook the amargoso for a late lunch, then munch on other things and talk until sunset. We would then bring out our guitars and sing Portuguese and popular American songs for hours before going home. I will always remember this good friend for his humor, his music, his cooking, and our deep friendship. He left this world too soon in 1999.(Serves 4 to 6) INGREDIENTS• 1 egg• 1 ½ lb ground pork (or veal)• 2–3 medium-sized bitter squashes• 1 ½ tsp light soy sauce• 3 tbsp green onions, chopped, divided• 2 tbsp shallots, chopped• 2 tsp garlic, chopped• 3 tbsp balichão sauce• 2 tbsp vegetable oil• 2 hot Thai chilies, minced• 1 tsp turmeric• 2 tomatoes, seeded and diced• 1 tsp sugar• salt and white pepper to tasteMARGOSO LORCHA BiTTer squash wiTh ground Pork/Balichão sauce fillingJosé dos Santos Ferreira Jr.METHOD1. Cut squashes horizontally. Scoop off the seeds and ribs inside. Add 1 tablespoon of salt to 1½ quarts of cold water, then bring to the boil. Scald the squashes for 30 seconds, then remove them right away and pour off the liquid.2. Add cold water to the squashes and bring to the boil again for 3 minutes. Remove and pour away the liquid (if water is very bitter, repeat this process). Rinse with cold water and set aside.3. Marinate the pork with the marinade ingredients. Set aside for at least 15 minutes.4. Fry the garlic lightly, then add the balichão and fry over medium heat, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute.5. Add 2 tablespoons green onions (reserve 1 tablespoon), all the shallots, soy sauce, chili, and turmeric. Stir to blend over medium heat for about another minute. Set the sauce aside to cool.6. Add 1 egg, used as a binder, lightly beaten, mixing it thoroughly with the sauce.7. Add the ground pork, uncooked (cooking the ground meat will leave it crumbly and difficult to stuff) and mix the sauce into the meat.

135m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o n 8. Stuff the squash halves, pressing the meat down with a spoon. 9. Add equal amounts of the reserved chopped green onions over the meat of the stuffed bitter squash halves, press in. Fry the meat side only of the stuffed squash to brown lightly. When this is done place the stuffed squash in a Pyrex dish and steam in a bain-marie for 30 minutes.10. A tomato sauce can be made by cooking and rendering 2 chopped tomatoes seasoned with salt and pepper and simmering until it thickens to a light paste. Leave it to cool and serve with the amargoso.Marinade for the pork• 1 tsp vegetable oil• 1 tbsp light soy• 1 tsp cornstarch• 1 tsp salt • ½ tsp white pepper

136The word Minchi (pronounced Minchee) is not from the Macaense Creole language, nor is the dish originally from Macau. It is almost definitely derived from the British term “minced meat” after the occupation of Hong Kong by the British in 1842. It is likely that the Chinese could not pronounce the English word “minced” when their employers tried to teach them to cook a Cottage Pie or some other British dish using minced meat that the word Minchi was coined. To mince or “minsee the meat” became Minchi. Up to the 1950s, both in Macau and Hong Kong, the meat was usually chopped by hand with a Chinese cleaver, thus minced instead of ground.This dish is probably the most popular in all Macaense households. Everybody has his or her own recipe. Many mix equal portions of ground pork and ground beef, others use only ground pork, while some add vegetables or even thin rice noodles in their Minchi. Thick soy or tik yau (almost like molasses) was used in many households for sweetness, but more commonly white sugar is used instead. Sweet soy, now available in Chinese markets can be used to substitute the thick soy and any use of sugar. Fried diced potato chips (French fries) is used in almost all recipes and added over the Minchi just before serving. A fried egg (pó-tdan in Cantonese) sunny-side up, over half of the serving with the crispy fried diced potatoes on the sides, called Minchi-Pótdan in Portuguese clubs in Hong Kong, is also a popular way to serve this dish. Several families, not all as is claimed in recent articles on Macaense cuisine, have since adopted it as the way to present this favorite dish.My mother’s recipe used 1½ pound ground beef and ½ pound ground pork, and also increased her soy mixture to 3 tablespoons light soy to 1 tablespoon dark soy and 2 tablespoons Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce, which I do not use.(Serves 4)MINCHI minced Pork or Beef fricasseeAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaINGREDIENTS• 1 lb ground beef (can be ½ pork and ½ beef)• 2 tsp garlic, chopped• 1 ½ cup onions, chopped• 2 tbsp ginger, minced • ¼ cup spring onions, sliced ¼ inch• 2 tbsp double-black soy• 2 tbsp sweet soy• 2 tsp sugar• 2 potatoes, diced ½ inch • vegetable oilMETHOD1. Fry the garlic and the onions over medium-high heat until the onions are translucent.2. Add the ground beef and stir, turning it often until fully cooked.3. Add the ginger and the spring onions, stir for 1 minute, then add the sweet and double-black soy. Stir in to mix and continue to cook over medium heat for a minute or so to let the flavors blend in.4. Add the sugar and stir in.5. Deep-fry the diced potatoes separately until medium brown and crunchy.6. Add the fried diced potatoes over the Minchi and serve with white rice.

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138For the health conscious, some Minchi recipes use chicken instead of pork or beef. Different in texture and somewhat in taste, it is still a Minchi.(Serves 4)INGREDIENTS• 1 lb ground chicken, low in fat• 1 tbsp garlic, chopped• 1 ½ cup onions diced• 2 tbsp ginger, grated • ½ cup spring onions, sliced ¼ inch• 2 tsp red japaleno chilies, seeds removed, then chopped• 1 tbsp sweet soy • 1 tbsp double-black soy • 1 tsp sugar• ½ tsp white pepper • 2 tbsp vegetable oil MINCHI — CHICKEN minced chicken fricasseeAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Sauté the garlic and the onions over medium-high until onions are translucent.2. Add the spring onions, stir for 1 minute, then add the grated ginger and the chopped chili. Stir to mix then continue to cook over medium heat for 1 minute.3. Add the ground chicken and stir, turning it often until fully cooked. Add the white pepper, then use a potato-mashing tool to break up the chicken as much as possible.4. Add the sweet and the double-black soy. Stir in to mix and continue to cook over medium heat for a minute or so to let the flavors blend in.5. Add the sugar and stir in.6. Serve with white rice and sautéed bean sprouts (optional).

139m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Sauté the garlic and the onions in 2 tablespoons vegetable oil with a pinch of salt over medium-high until onions are translucent.2. Add the spring onions, grated ginger, chopped chilies, and jagra. Stir to mix, then continue to cook over medium heat for 1 minute.3. Add the ground turkey and stir, turning it often and separating the meat until fully cooked. Add white pepper.4. Add the sweet and the double-black soy. Stir in to mix and continue to cook over medium heat for a minute or so to let the flavors blend in.5. Add the mushrooms and mix. Cook over medium heat, covered, until the mushrooms are tender but not too soft.6. Garnish with cilantro leaves (optional).7. Serve with white rice and stir-fried cabbage or sautéed bean sprouts.Note: Chopped walnuts can be added as a topping before garnishing with cilantro leaves.INGREDIENTS• 1 lb ground turkey• 1 tbsp garlic, chopped• 1 cup onions, diced• 2 tbsp ginger, grated • ½ cup spring onions, sliced ¼ inch• 1 tsp red chilies, seeds removed, then chopped• 2–3 cups crimini mushrooms, diced ½ inch• 2 tbsp sweet soy • 1 tbsp double-black soy • 2 tsp jagra, crushed• ½ tsp white pepper • 2 tbsp vegetable oil• ¼ cup cilantro leaves for garnish (optional)MINCHI — TURKEY WITH MUSHROOMSminced Turkey wiTh mushrooms António M. Jorge da SilvaAnother healthy variation is to use ground turkey. The addition of diced mushroom softens the texture and adds to the flavor.(Serves 4)

140Bafassá is a Macaense word that comes from the combination of two Portuguese culinary terms abafar (literally to smother or suffocate, but in cooking it means to cook tightly covered as in stewing or even steaming) and assar (to roast). The Macaense term was coined from abafar + assar, abbreviated to bafá + assá, becoming bafassá. The origin of this dish is probably from the Portuguese pork in vinha d’alhos — a garlic and wine-vinegar marinade with the addition of turmeric. This, with a strong Malay influence, was adapted into one of the principal dishes in Macaense cuisine. I also add wine instead of water to many of the Macaense dishes in my recipes, which challenges its authenticityThe original recipe by my mother was:INGREDIENTS• 2 lb pork (roast)• 1 tbsp turmeric• ½ cup Port wine• ½ cup rice vinegar• 4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped• salt to tastePORCO BAFASSÁ sTewed-roasTed Pork in garlic-Turmeric sauceOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaModified by António and Penelope Jorge da Silva

141m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHODMarinade1. Mix the vinegar, sherry, turmeric, cumin, garlic, and pepper in a glass receptacle to marinade the pork. 2. Puncture meat evenly on both sides with a fork. Place pork in a Pyrex or other baking dish and leave to marinade overnight, or for at least 4 hours, turning the meat over once. Baste the pork with the marinade occasionally.Cooking 1. Parboil the potatoes for 15 minutes in water with ½ tablespoon turmeric until they are nearly cooked. Remove the potatoes and set aside. Quarter the potatoes, if they are large.2. After the marinade process, remove the meat, drain the marinade into a bowl and set aside. Pat the meat dry.3. Sear all sides of the meat in a hot cast iron pan with a little oil — 3 minutes each side. Place the meat in a Dutch oven.4. Pour the marinade over the meat, then add the potatoes to the side. Crush a little black pepper over the meat, then sprinkle with about 2 teaspoons Kosher salt and cover the pot.5. Preheat the oven to 275°F, then put the meat in and leave to bake for 2 ½ hours. After about 1 hour baste the potatoes with the meat juices and continue to roast the meat. 6. Slice the meat, arrange on a platter, then spoon the gravy over the meat. Place potatoes around the meat and serve. Steamed white rice can also be served with this dish. Note: The potatoes were originally parboiled in salted water only (no turmeric added), then fried with the pork drippings and its oil. The modified process, instead of frying, is the same as one would use to roast potatoes when cooking a Sunday Roast in England.Slicing the pork is the traditional way of serving this dish. I don’t do it as I prefer to slow cook the pork until it is very tender and most of the juices absorbed. This makes it difficult to slice, sacrificing tradition for taste. I also use pork shoulder instead of pork loin.INGREDIENTS• 3 lb pork shoulder roast or pork loin• 6 cloves garlic, smashed• 1 tbsp turmeric (additional ½ tbsp for potatoes)• ½ tsp cumin• ¾ cup sweet sherry• ½ cup Chinese rice vinegar • 2 bay leaves• 9 potatoes, peeled and halved or quartered• ½ tsp white pepper• 2 tsp Kosher salt, add to sauce before cookingThe modified recipe is:

142This dish is typically that of Macau and another one of the few based totally on Chinese cuisine. The majority of Macaense dishes are based on Portuguese cuisine with eastern (including Indian and Malay) influence. Galinha com Rábano is a similar version of this dish, using chicken instead of pork. This is a combination of my mother’s recipes for Galinha Molho and Porco Sutate as the ingredients and methods of cooking are almost alike. This recipe can be made with chicken or pork. I altered the soy (sutate in Maquista) and vinegar proportions to suit my taste. The addition of honey and brown sugar are also my modifications as is the use of chicken broth instead of water. Rábano in Portuguese is actually a turnip; sutate*1 is Maquista for soy sauce. My mother’s recipe calls for a Chinese turnip (actually jicama), which in the case of this recipe translates into white daikon radish. I have also modified my mother’s recipe by cutting the pork into cubes. (Serves 6)* Batalha, Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, 272.INGREDIENTS• 2 lb pork shoulder, trim off most of the fat, cut into 2-inch cubes• 1 daikon radish, peeled and cut into 1 ½-inch cubes (4 cups)• 1 tbsp light soy• 3 tbsp dark soy• 1 tbsp Chinese rice vinegar • 3 cloves garlic, crushed• 1 onion, halved and sliced• 2 tbsp vegetable oil• 1 tbsp brown sugar (jagra — slab palm sugar, is preferred)• ½ cup chicken broth• 1 tsp white pepperMETHOD1. In a glass bowl, mix the light and dark soy, chicken broth, and sugar, then set aside.2. Using a Dutch oven or heavy pot with cover, fry the garlic and the onions over medium-high heat until the onions are translucent. Stir in the pork and cook over high heat to seal all sides, then add the vinegar and white pepper. Stir in to mix.3. Add the sauce, stir, loosely cover and leave to cook over low heat for about 10 minutes. Add the cubed radish.4. Place the pot in a pre-heated oven at 250°F and leave to cook for 2 ½ hours.5. Serve with white rice.PORCO SUTATE Pork wiTh soy sauce and daikon radishOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaModified by António M. Jorge da Silva

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144This dish is not generally known to many Macaenses of the younger generation and not served in many households outside of Macau. Like many Macaense recipes, gravy is a very important aspect of this dish. Slightly sweet and gingery, the tender pork contrasts with the apple-like snap of the lotus rhizome offering a delicious and very authentic Macaense dish that definitely has a Chinese origin. Restrate,* meaning the rhizome of the lotus, is a term little used today. The word, according to Graciete Batalha, is of Sino-Macaense origin, made up of the Portuguese word raiz (root) and the Macaense term trate (Malaysian word teratai, describing a kind of water-lily). Raiz de trate (lin ngau in Cantonese) has been combined as one word to become restrate.My mother’s recipe uses 2 tablespoons of thick black sweetened soy (like molasses, or tik yau in Cantonese), 4 tablespoons light soy, 4 tablespoons Chinese rice vinegar, and 2 teaspoons white sugar. I have chosen to use my own proportions of soy and vinegar, and added jagra (palm slab sugar) and sherry to her original recipe.(Serves 6) * Batalha, Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, 260.METHOD1. Marinate the pork in a mixture of dark and light soy, vinegar, sherry, and sugar for 2 hours minimum. Strain the pork from the marinade (retaining as much marinade as possible) just before cooking. Set marinade aside.2. Heat about 3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil in a pan. Add the pork, raise the heat to high and stir until all sides are sealed.3. Pour the reserved marinade over the pork, add ½ cup water, loosely cover and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. 4. Add the lotus root segments and the ginger strips.5. If cooking on the stovetop, lower heat to the minimum level and leave to simmer, covered, for 1½ hours, stirring the contents at least once. Preferably, it is covered and cooked in the oven, preheated to 225°F for 2 hours. Uncover after 1 hour and stir, making sure all the lotus root segments are covered with the gravy. 6. Serve with white rice. Spoon the gravy over the meat servings.INGREDIENTS• 1 ½ lb pork shoulder cut into 2-inch cubes• 1 lb lotus root, washed and cut into 2-inch segments, and quartered• 3 tbsp light soy• 3 tbsp dark soy • 2 tbsp Chinese rice vinegar• 3 tbsp sweet sherry (Pedro Ximenez preferred)• 3 tbsp jagra — palm slab sugar, crushed, or dark brown sugar• 3 cloves garlic, rough chopped• ¼ cup ginger root cut into 3-inch thin strips• ¼ cup spring onions, cut into ¼-inch slicesPORCO COM RESTRATE Pork wiTh loTus rooT (rhizome)Olga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaModified by António M. Jorge da Silva

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146Tamarindo, pronounced by the Portuguese in Hong Kong as Tamarinho, comes from the use of tamarind paste. This dish is an old-time favorite that will probably not survive beyond the next few generations as it is almost certain that Balichão sauce as we know it will be made by less and less as the years go by. This dish is always served with Arroz Carregado (pressed rice), using glutinous rice (oryza sativa) known as sticky rice or sweet rice in California, Nhó-mai Fahn in Cantonese, and also called arroz pulu* in Maquista. Though it is called “glutinous” rice, it does not contain dietary gluten and is safe for gluten-free diets. (Serves 6)* Batalha, Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, 52–53.INGREDIENTS• 4 lb pork shoulder cut into 1 ½-inch cubes• 2 tbsp tamarind paste or block tamarind, soaked to dissolve • 1 slab jagra, brown palm-sap slab sugar (½ cup when crushed)• ¾ cup balichão sauce• 2 tbsp ginger, grated• ½ cup spring onions, sliced• 2 tbsp garlic, chopped• 1 tsp sea salt• vegetable oilMETHOD1. Cut equivalent to 1 ½ tablespoon off the packaged tamarind block. Put it in a bowl adding enough warm water to just cover the tamarind and leave to soak for 1 hour. When the tamarind is soft, squeeze the pulp to remove the skin and the seeds, which are then discarded, leaving only the juice and the pulp. If using tamarind paste just use the measured amount direct from the jar.2. Sauté the garlic and the spring onions for a few minutes, then add the balichão sauce and the ginger to the pan over medium-high heat and leave to fry for a few minutes.3. Add the pork and 1 teaspoon sea salt, stir in and seal the meat on all sides, then add the tamarind sauce and the crumbled slab sugar. Cover and bake in the oven at 225° F for 3 hours.4. Remove from oven, then scoop the sauce into a bowl. Adjust for sweetness and, if necessary, add more balichão.5. Keep warm until ready to serve with sauce over the meat and pressed rice. PORCO BALICHÃO TAMARINHO Pork wiTh Tamarind-shrimP PasTe sauceOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaModified by Penelope and António M. Jorge da Silva

147m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Wash 3 cups glutinous rice, rinsing twice, then set aside to soak for 1 hour.2. Fry the garlic and half the spring onions in 1 tablespoon oil and 2 tablespoons butter for about ½ minute then remove and discard the garlic only. Now add all the rice to the chopped spring onions and the oil, stir to completely mix with the rice.3. Stir in 2 teaspoons salt and 6 cups of water (water to rice ratio: 2:1). Cook the contents in a rice cooker.4. When the rice is cooked, mix in the remaining half of the sliced green onions, then remove the rice to a platter and spread the rice to cover the entire platter. 5. Press the rice down to compress, mounding slightly in the center and filling about half the height of the dish.6. With a brush, brush softened butter* over the entire surface of the rice. Set aside to cool, then dress the top with sliced spring onions.7. When ready to serve, heat the pork and the sauce. Slice the pressed rice (room temperature) and serve with the meat and sauce over the slices. The pressed rice is always served at room temperature.* Butter is used here to glaze the finished surface of the rice instead of lard, which was used in all the original recipes.INGREDIENTS• 3 cups glutinous rice (also known as arroz pulu or sticky rice)• 2 cloves garlic, crushed• ¼ cup spring onions, sliced ¼ inch, divided• butter (substitution for lard)ARROZ CARREGADO (Pressed rice)

148Vindaloo is a curry that originated in Goa, located on the southwest coast of India. “This Goan dish combines the Portuguese liking for pork marinated, and then stewed in vinegar with a south Indian spice mixture and lots of chilies. Many recipes call for as many as 20 fresh red chilies.”* Vindaloo, derived from the Portuguese term vinha d’alhos, or vinho e alhos, is a spicy, sweet and sour, and usually very hot, curry. In restaurants this curry almost always has potatoes in it. However, I read that traditional Vindaloos do not include potatoes, the discrepancy arising because the word aloo means potato in Hindi. Aloo in this case is the Portuguese word for garlic — alho. Porco Vinho d’Alho, on the other hand, is not as spicy hot. Vinha d’alhos, or vinho e alhos, is a marinade of garlic, and wine or vinegar, with salt and possibly pepper, in which meat is seasoned.Vindaloo curry is typically chicken, pork, prawn, or (if not in India) beef stew with hot spices, garlic, and vinegar. Unlike Prawn Vindaloo, the meat dishes are cooked slowly over very low heat, in a covered clay pot or in the oven for about 3 hours.(Serves 4 to 6)* Collingham, Curry, 74.PORCO VINHO D’ALHO GOENSE goan Pork VindalooAntónio M. Jorge da Silva

149m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nINGREDIENTS• 2 lb pork shoulder — excess fat trimmed off; cut into 2-inch cubes• 1 large onion, quartered then sliced• 1 large tomato, roughly chopped• 3 strips lemon rind• 1 tbsp jagra — slab palm sugar, crushed• 2 tsp vinegar• ¼ cup cilantro, chopped for garnish• vegetable oilMARINADE• 2 tbsp tamarind pulp• 2 tsp turmeric• 2 tbsp ginger, grated• 1 tbsp garlic, minced• 2 tbsp plain yogurt• 1 tsp garam masalaSPICES• 1 tsp cumin seeds• 3 cloves, left whole• ½ cinnamon stick, split• 2 bay leaves, crumbled• 1 tsp black pepper, freshly rough ground• 1 tsp turmeric• 2 tsp ground cumin• 1 tsp ground coriander• 2 tsp ground cayenne pepper• 4 Cayenne or Thai chilies, whole• 1 tsp Kosher saltMETHOD1. Rub the marinade over the surfaces of the cubed pork. Marinate for a minimum of 2 hours. 2. Using a large pan, add enough oil to cover the bottom; when oil is hot, sweat the onions with a pinch of salt, loosely covered, until soft and translucent.3. Add the chopped tomatoes to the onions, mix thoroughly, then cover loosely and leave to cook over medium heat until the tomatoes are soft. Leave to cool, then puree in a blender.4. In a Dutch oven or deep clay pot with cover, add enough oil to cover the bottom. Heat the first 4 spices for 1 minute over medium-high heat, then add the remaining spices and fry for ½ minute.5. Add the pork and fry to seal all sides, then add the vinegar and stir in. 6. Add the onion-tomato puree, jagra, and lemon rind. Stir to mix. Raise heat and bring to the boil, then lower heat to simmer for a minute or two. 7. Cover the pot and bake in the oven at 225ºF for 3 hours.8. Garnish with freshly chopped cilantro leaves and serve with rice

150This is another variation of Porco Vinho d’Alho Goense, but with a different marinade using sherry wine instead of onions, tomatoes, and yogurt to provide the liquid for the sauce. Another difference is that it uses fewer spices and is not as curry-like. (Serves 4 to 6)INGREDIENTS• 2 lb pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes • 5 large cloves garlic, minced• 1 tbsp Thai chilies, minced• 4 tsp turmeric• 4 tsp cumin• 2 cups cream sherry• 3 tbsp white wine vinegar• 2 tsp brown sugar or jagra• 3 tbsp vegetable oil• 1 ½ tsp Kosher salt or to tastePORCO VINHO D’ALHO PICANTE sPicy garlic PorkBosco CorreaMETHOD1. Blend all the spices in a glass or porcelain bowl, then add the sherry and the vinegar. Do not add the salt at this stage; add a little salt just before cooking. Put the meat into the marinade, cover with plastic wrap and leave to marinate overnight in refrigerator.2. Take out the pork from the fridge, add the salt and bring to room temperature. Drain the marinade from the pork and set aside.3. Heat oil in a pan, add the garlic and the chilies, then add the pork. Allow the pork to fry for a few minutes, turning it to seal all sides.4. Pour the marinade over the pork, bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes.5. Cover and place in a preheated oven at 225ºF for 2 ½ hours. 6. Serve with steamed rice.

151m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Wash the kidneys with water. Remove all the fatty oil. Cut each piece in half, then remove all the sinew with a pair of scissors. Thinly slice the kidneys, then wash with vinegar.2. Peel and thinly slice the ginger, crush the garlic.3. Put the kidney slices, garlic, ginger, turmeric, and bay leaf in a bowl, then pour the wine over to cover. Cover and marinate overnight in refrigerator.4. Remove from refrigerator, squeeze out all the liquid from the kidney slices.5. Meanwhile, boil the potatoes, then mash with milk and a little butter. Set aside.6. Pour a little oil in a frying pan over high heat. Fry the kidneys for 5 minutes. Any longer will make the kidney slices stiff.7. Remove from heat immediately and set aside in a bowl or plate.8. Heat the frying pan again, then over high heat add the marinade. As soon as it begins to boil, season to taste, then add the kidney slices.9. Stir once only, then remove immediately.10. Place in a platter, then surround and dress with mashed potato.INGREDIENTS• 4 pork kidneys• 2 inches ginger segment• 8 cloves garlic, crushed• 1 tsp turmeric• 1 bay leaf• 2 cups Chinese rice wine or white wine• 6 potatoes• ¼ cup milk• 2 tbsp butter• salt and pepper to taste(Serves 4) RINS À ANTIGA DE MACAU kidneys — an old macau reciPe Alice do Espirito Santo Pinto MarquesRecipe circa 1950s

152Tacho, as the name of a cuisine, is derived from the Portuguese word of the same spelling meaning pot. Another name for this typical Macaense dish is Chau-chau Pele,* the origin of which is said to be a variation of Chinese stew with mixed vegetables and several types of meat. That may be what some people say, but I see it as being derived from a Portuguese Cozido from the northern province of Minho, then modified using Chinese sausage, Lap Yuk, Chinese cabbage, and pork rind (pele in Portuguese), instead of Portuguese sausage, carrots, and smoked pig’s ear or snout. Chau in Cantonese means to stir-fry or to sauté, usually several ingredients. Chau-chau is Maquista using a reduplication of the word chau to convey plurality, to stress or intensify the meaning of a word. In this case it is to suggest that the dish has a variety or many ingredients, meats, and vegetables in its recipe. Reduplication is often used in Maquista and many other languages for the same purpose. Balichão is a must as a sauce over this dish. For more information see the balichão recipe.For some reason, my mother’s handwritten recipe includes not only cabbage, but also broccoli and spinach. This certainly was not for health reasons or the bent toward a vegetarian preference. I used only cabbage from her recipe, leaving out the other leaf vegetables as that is quite unusual in any other Macaense Tacho in other recipes or that I have eaten myself. Primarily due to the quantities of the ingredients required for this dish, it is normally served at larger gatherings.* Batalha, Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, 125–26.TACHO (CHAU-CHAU PELE)macau meaT and vegeTaBle sTewOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1960s

153m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o n(Serves 8)INGREDIENTS• 1 chicken cut into segments• 1 ½ lb pork — stew cut• 1 ½ lb beef — stew cut• 2 lb raw ham hocks, cut into 2-inch cubes• ¼ lb Lap Yuk (Chinese cured pork) strip• ½ lb pork rind (skin — pele in Portuguese)• 1 lb Chinese sausage• 3 lb white cabbage — sliced• 3 onions — sliced• 3 large tomatoes — slicedMETHOD1. Fry onions until translucent, then add the pork and the beef one type at a time and fry to seal in the juices.2. Add the sliced tomatoes, stir in and leave to cook for a couple of minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the Chinese sausages, strips of Lap Yuk if available, and a little salt. Stir and cook for another minute.3. Add the pork, beef and ham hocks then add water to cover the meat, cover to cook on medium heat for about 20 minutes until the sausages are cooked.4. Remove the sausages and the Lap Yuk strip and continue cooking over low heat. Remove the meat as they become tender. Set aside and leave to cool. 5. Wash the pork rind (pele) in warm water, then in a separate pot or container, scald by pouring boiling water over and leaving to soak for a couple of minutes. When soft, remove and cut into 2 x 3-inch pieces. Set aside.6. Add the chicken, leave to cook over medium-low heat until the chicken is tender (about 1 hour), then remove the chicken and set aside. 7. Deviation from all Tacho recipes:a) After all the meat has been removed from the broth, leave to cool, then refrigerate for about two hours. When all the fat on the top has turned white (to put it simply), scoop all of it off and discard, leaving the jelly-like broth behind. Warm those up, then begin the next step of cooking the vegetables, then returning all the meat to finish the dish. b) Place the pork rind in a pot of water, bring to the boil, then cover and lower the heat, leaving it to render for half an hour. Drain off the water, rinse, add water and repeat the process. Rinse off and use the rendered rind only. Add to the pot before the vegetable is cooked.8. Cook the cabbage, adding the pork rind over medium-low heat in the broth left from cooking the meats. When almost cooked, slice the sausages and return with the meat, including the chicken, to the pot, stir in and leave to cook over low heat for 5 to 10 minutes.9. Serve with prepared balichão sauce and white rice.

154This dish, along with Galinha Parida was cooked and served as a fortifying meal to the women who had recently given birth. This dish is served in family meals and very rarely in one of the small family style restaurants of Macau. The term chau-chau comes from the Chinese word chau, which means to fry. Using the word twice in succession in this case implies a mixture of meats and vegetables and frying them with a little oil.* To prepare a Chau-chau in the Macaense dialect is to stir-fry a mixture of assorted meats and/or vegetables with a variety of ingredients.(Serves 4) * Batalha, Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, 125.INGREDIENTS• 1 lb beef skirt steak, thinly sliced on cross-grain to ¼ inch x 2 inches long • ¼ cup spring onions, sliced ¼ inch• 2 tbsp ginger, sliced 1 ½-inch strips• 1 tsp turmeric• 1 tsp Chinese rice vinegar• ½ cup water with 2 tbsp cornstarch for gravy• ¼ cup Port wine or sherry (some use sam ching)• ½ tsp saltMETHOD1. Marinate the sliced beef strips in vinegar and wine for 1 hour.2. Heat some cooking oil in a pan. Fry the ginger for a minute, then the spring onions, adding the turmeric after half a minute or so.3. Add the beef, then sprinkle salt over, stir-fry the beef until cooked evenly. Pour any marinade left over the beef and stir a couple of times.4. Add water with cornstarch to make some gravy (Almost all Macau dishes eaten with rice are served with gravy). Pour over the beef and stir to mix.5. Serve hot with steamed rice.VACA CHAU-CHAU PARIDA sTir-fried Beef wiTh ginger and TurmericOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1960s

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156Vaca Indiana is a tasty curry of Goan origin not often found in recipe books and now seldom cooked by Macaense families. The recipe originally was for Lingua Indiana, using sliced beef tongue, and not Vaca Indiana, which uses beef meat. Note that there is no garlic in this recipe. I have added tomato paste and ginger to the recipe and adjusted the spice quantities to my taste and omitted the use of Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce, which was popular in the mid-1940s especially in the Macaense community of Hong Kong.(Serves 6)INGREDIENTS• 2 lb beef brisket, cut in 3-inch pieces• 2 onions, quartered and sliced• 1 tbsp ginger, grated• 2 large tomatoes, seeded and chopped• 2–3 red chilies (hot), sliced ¼ inch• 2 tsp tomato paste• 2 tsp tamarind paste• 2 tbsp cilantro, chopped for garnish• Portuguese olive oilSPICES TO FRY WITH THE ONIONS• ½ tsp whole cumin seeds • ½ cinnamon bark, split• 4 whole cloves• 8 black peppercorns, whole• 2 bay leaves SPICE MIX• 1 tsp cumin• 1 tsp coriander• 1 tsp turmeric• 1 tsp hot paprika• 1 tbsp mild chili pepper • ½ tsp cayenne pepper• 1 tsp Kosher saltMETHOD1. Slice the brisket cross-grain into 3-inch slices, set aside.2. Mix the spices and set aside. If not using tamarind paste, soak 1 tablespoon tamarind pulp in hot water for 15 minutes, then squeeze the pulp to extract all the sauce and set aside. Discard the seeds and the skin.3. Heat enough oil to cover the bottom of a heavy pot with cover. Fry the onions with the spices listed above. Stir occasionally. When the onions are soft and translucent, add the chopped tomatoes and cook under medium heat, loosely covered until soft (about 15 minutes).4. Add the tamarind paste, tomato paste, ginger, and chilies. Leave to simmer over low heat uncovered while sealing the meat.5. Heat enough oil to cover the bottom of a separate heavy pan; fry the meat over high heat to seal all sides. Lower heat to medium-high.6. Add the spice mix and stir to thoroughly cover all sides of the meat, stir continuously to fry the spices but be careful not to burn it.7. Transfer the meat to the pot with the onions and deglaze the pan with a minimum of ½ cup of hot water. Pour the juices and spice into the pot. Stir to mix so that all the meat pieces are covered with the onion-tomato sauce.8. Cover and transfer into a preheated oven at 225ºF and braise for 3 hours.9. Serve with white rice, spooning the gravy over the pieces of meat.VACA INDIANA curried Beef BriskeT — goan sTyleOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaModified by António M. Jorge da Silva

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158This dish uses cross-rib or chuck, cooked slowly to give tender slices for serving. Slow cooking in a tightly covered pot or Dutch oven gives its name in Portuguese estufar, literally meaning to suffocate or, in cooking terms, to braise. One such recipe, with different ingredients, is in a Portuguese cookbook O Livro de Pantagruel by Berta Rosa-Limpo, published in Lisbon in 1947. The recipe describes the cooking process as “ . . . tapa-se o tacho e deixa-se estufar em lume muito brando . . . ,” which translates to mean “. . . cover the pot and leave it to braise over a very low flame . . . .” Influenced by the British, Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce was added to the recipe by the community in Hong Kong. Some confuse Vaca Estufada with Rolete, a similar dish using flank steak or brisket rolled around a whole carrot. The recipe for both is basically the same. (Serves 6 to 8)INGREDIENTS• 4 lb boneless chuck roast• ¼ cup tawny Port wine or sherry • 2 onions, halved and thinly sliced• 3 cloves garlic, crushed• 6 vine tomatoes, sliced• 1 tbsp tomato paste• 2 bay leaves• 1 tbsp salt• Portuguese olive oil (enough to cover bottom of pan) Marinade• ½ cup light soy• ¼ cup dark soy• 2 tbsp white wine vinegar• 3 whole cloves• ½ stick cinnamon• 2 tsp fresh ground black pepperMETHOD1. Sprinkle the salt on both sides of the meat, then set aside. 2. Meanwhile mix the marinade ingredients. 3. Puncture all sides of the meat with a fork.4. Marinate the meat for a minimum of 2 hours, turning at least once. A longer marinate period is preferable. Drain the marinade into a bowl and set aside, then pat the meat dry before cooking.Cooking the Beef1. Cover the bottom of a casserole with olive oil, add the bay leaves and sauté with the onions and garlic until the onions caramelize and turn light brown. 2. Add the sliced tomatoes and the tomato paste. Stir to cook for about 3 minutes until tomatoes are soft. 3. Add the marinade including the cloves and cinnamon and stir in. Leave to simmer over low heat.4. In a heavy skillet, lightly brown the meat over high heat using a little olive oil.5. Transfer the meat to the casserole with the onion-tomato sauce. VACA ESTUFADA — macau Braised Beef casseroleOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaModified by António M. Jorge da Silva

159m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o n6. Cover the casserole, place in a preheated oven at 225°F. Leave to slow cook for 3 ½ hours. 7. Remove from the oven, uncover, add the Port wine and stir into the gravy, then ladle over the meat. Set aside until ready to serve.8. Just before serving, remove the meat from the casserole onto a slicing board.9. Slice the meat across the grain, pour the sauce* over the slices and serve with potatoes, or white rice if preferred.* Taste the sauce and if Worcestershire sauce is desired, add to the sauce at this point and stir in before pouring over the meat.

160Virado means turned around or to stir. This is a dish using leftover meats following a dinner party. In this recipe I have suggested beef, chicken, and pork, but it can be any leftover meat. Chinese roasted pork (Char Siu) is essential though.(Serves 6)INGREDIENTS• 6–8 slices leftover Vaca Estufada with sauce, cut into 1-inch pieces• 6–8 pieces leftover roast chicken, cut into 1-inch pieces• 6–8 slices leftover roast pork (if available), cut into 1-inch pieces• ½ lb Char Siu (Chinese roasted pork), cut into 1-inch pieces• 4 stalks spring onions, sliced• 2 tbsp ginger soaked in 1 tbsp Chinese vinegar and sugar, sliced in strips• 3 tbsp dark soy• 3 tbsp light soy• 2 tbsp tomato sauce or mixed sweet pickles• ¼ cup Port wineVIRADO mixed meaT sTewOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1960sMETHOD1. Fry the spring onions, then add the dark and light soy sauce.2. Add the ginger, then the Char Siu and other meats.3. Add the tomato sauce (or pickles), then stir to mix thoroughly.4. Lower the heat and add sauce of the Vaca Estufada and the Port wine. Stir again.5. Serve with white rice.

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162These wonderful bars of Aluar,* or Aluá, are traditionally served during the festivities of a Macaense Christmas. My friends Flávio and Theresa worked hard many weeks before Christmas so their friends could enjoy this traditional treat. These are not available commercially and may disappear from the tables of the descendants of the Macaense as time passes. The name is said to be derived from the Indo-Portuguese (possibly Goan) word aluá, but unlikely to be from Portuguese aluar, meaning to cut in half-moon shape as this sweet is made in rectangular blocks and sliced. It can also be from allua in Hindustani or more likely halua in Persian. Its origin is probably from the Persian sweet with pistasch nuts that the Indians modified and, like many Macaense dishes, modified again in Macau over the years.** Theresa gave me this recipe during our family celebration of “Burning of the Tree” on the Epiphany, January 6, 2003. * Batalha, Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, 38–40.** For more information, see Braga, José Pedro, The Portuguese in Hong Kong and China, 60.INGREDIENTS• 1 lb all-purpose flour• 6 oz glutinous or sweet rice flour (Michiko)• 42 oz coconut milk (3 x 14-oz cans)• 3 oz sliced almonds — blanched and broken into pieces• 4 oz toasted pine nuts, cut in halves or thirds• 1 lb butter (traditionally lard)• 1 cup desiccated coconut flakes (not strips), unsweetened• 3 ½ lb rock sugar, crushedMETHOD1. Sift all-purpose flour and sweet rice flour together and set aside.2. Mix flour, sugar, and coconut milk into a smooth paste.3. Melt butter in a non-stick heavy bottom pan# over moderate heat (about 300°F). Add flour-sugar-coconut mixture and stir constantly. When it begins to boil, turn heat down to low (about 225°F) and continue to stir with a large wooden spoon with long handle as the mixture will thicken and become difficult to stir. When the mixture thickens considerably and the fat starts to separate (oozing to the top), remove all the fat with a suction device such as a baster.4. When all the fat has been removed, stir in the nuts and desiccated coconut flakes. The mixture will not be very heavy and hard to stir. The above 4 steps takes about 2 to 2 ½ hours.5. Press into a 2 x 9 x 13-inch pan lined with wax paper, using a wide spatula. The wax paper should be large enough to hang over the sides of the dish, making it easier to remove the Aluá from the dish later. ALUÁ coconuT and mixed nuT BarsFlávio da LuzRecipe circa 1970s

163m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o n6. Smooth the top of the Aluá with a metal spatula. 7. Leave to cool to room temperature, then turn over onto a flat cutting surface. Cut the Aluá into 3 x 3 ¼-inch cakes. This should yield 12 pieces.8. Wrap the cakes individually with plastic wrap, then keep in the refrigerator until ready to use.# Important Note: Use an 8-quart, heavy based, non-stick pot, preferably with an electric element attached (like an electric skillet) that can be anchored. When the mixture thickens, it becomes very difficult to stir.

164This dessert is part of most festivals, wedding parties, and family celebrations in Portugal. The decorative cinnamon patterns are usually geometric, or names and other symbols depending on the ceremony or creativity of the person preparing this dish. This sweet dessert originated in India, and known as Kheer in north India and Payasa in the south. Popular in Hindu festivals, particularly at weddings, it is also a favorite of Indian Christians during Christmas. I made one for my brother Luiz.INGREDIENTS• 1 cup rice — medium grain• 5 cups milk, divided• ⅛ tsp vanilla essence • ¾ cup sugar• ⅛ tsp salt• 1 lemon, use peel of entire lemon• 4 egg yolks, beaten• ½ cinnamon stick• 1 tbsp butter• cinnamon — powderedARROZ DOCE sweeT rice PuddingOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaModified by António M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. In a deep saucepan, continuously stir 1 cup rice with 1 tablespoon butter for about 3 minutes. Do not brown. Add 3 cups milk, ¾ cup sugar, ⅛ teaspoon vanilla essence, the lemon peel, and the cinnamon stick. Bring to boil. Lower heat, stir the rice, cover loosely, and cook over very low heat for 15 minutes. Uncover and stir to prevent rice from sticking to the bottom of the pan, then loosely cover again and continue to cook for another 10 minutes.Note: The other 2 cups of milk should be heated to almost boiling point after this stage and kept as standby for adding to the rice throughout the cooking process.2. Uncover, remove the lemon peel and the cinnamon stick, and discard. Check the rice; if not soft enough add a little more hot milk, stir, cover and continue to cook. Uncover and check every 10 minutes and add hot milk as necessary, continuing the cooking process until the rice is very moist. The texture should be still a little firm and not too soft.3. Beat the egg yolks with the salt, stir into the rice to mix thoroughly. Cook uncovered, over low heat for another 2 to 3 minutes. Stir often to prevent rice from sticking. If it thickens too much add hot milk and stir in. The rice should have the consistency of a moist thick porridge when removed from the heat. Spoon the rice into a shallow serving platter and leave to cool.4. When cool, sprinkle powdered cinnamon to make a decorative pattern over the surface. Serve in slices.

165m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nChacha is almost certainly of Malay origin. Known as Burbur Chacha, it is said to be of Nhonha derivation and is a widely served dessert in Malay homes and restaurants. It was very popular in Macaense homes before the diaspora. Burbur is a Malay word for congee (porridge). The Malay recipe uses sweet potato, both yellow and orange, as well as yam, and the end product is thinner than the Macaense version using less sago.INGREDIENTS• 2 cups thick coconut milk• 6 cups water• 1 lb taro root (or yam), peeled then diced ½ inch• ¼ cup sago (tapioca) pearls• ¼ cup jagra, or to tasteMETHOD1. Peel then dice the taro root. Set aside.2. Soak the sago pearls in warm water for 30 minutes then drain. Set aside.3. Boil the water in a pot then add the diced yam and the jagra. Cook over medium-het for 5 minutes.4. Lower the heat to medium, then add the coconut milk and the sago. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring often, until the sago is translucent.5. Serve either hot or cold.CHACHA coconuT, Taro and sago PorridgeGuilhermina “Guilly” de FigueiredoRecipe circa 1920s

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167m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nThis gummy pudding is of Malay origin and is known there as Wajek* or Wajik (diamond-shaped). This sweet and sticky dessert, also very popular in Indonesia, was originally prepared with coconut milk and later replaced by condensed milk in Macau and Hong Kong. As coconut milk is now easily available in cans, most recipes have returned to using it. Palm sugar was used originally instead of the white sugar used by many Macaense recipes.* Batalha, Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, 64.INGREDIENTS• 2 cups glutinous rice• ½ cup grated coconut• 2 tbsp coconut or condensed milk• ¾ lb sugar• 4 cups waterMETHOD1. Wash the rice with cold water until water runs almost clear — 3 to 4 rinses. Set aside.2. Immerse the grated coconut in 4 cups boiling water, then drain and squeeze out all the juice into a bowl. Set the coconut aside. The liquid will be used to cook the rice.3. When the liquid has cooled, add 2 tablespoons coconut milk to the liquid, then add the rice and stir to mix.4. Bring to the boil, then cover and lower heat. Leave to simmer over medium-low heat until almost cooked but still moist.5. Dissolve the sugar in a little warm water, then add the grated coconut and stir to mix.6. Add the mixture to the rice and stir in.7. Transfer the rice to a flat serving tray and smooth the top and sides with a wooden spatula, mounding the rice on the top.8. To enhance the top of the Bagi pudding, use a metal spatula dipped in a little sugar water to make the surface shine.BAGI coconuT and gluTinous rice Pudding Maria Celestina de Melo e Senna Adapted from Bons Petiscos Recipe 1977

168A milk and coconut pudding likely introduced by the Nhonhas of Malacca, Bebinca de Leite is served at almost every Macaense function, be it a family gathering, birthday, or wedding. The term is likely to be Malay, from a sweet called binka that has very similar ingredients. Bebinca* is a favorite dessert found in Goa, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, Indonesia, and even the Philippines.* Batalha, Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, 71 and 297. INGREDIENTS• 4 cups whole milk (some recipes use evaporated milk)• 6 egg yolks• 1 cup sugar• 1 cup coconut milk• 1 cup cornstarch (maizena)• 1 tbsp butter• pinch salt BEBINCA DE LEITE milk and coconuT PuddingOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Beat the sugar and the egg yolks.2. Mix the milk with the cornstarch, coconut milk, and egg yolk-sugar mixture, 3. Cook over low heat, beating constantly with a wooden spoon until it thickens. Add the butter and a pinch of salt and continue beating until the bottom of the pan is visible.4. Spoon the contents into a buttered pan and leave to cool until the following day.5. Bake in a 350ºF preheated oven until the surface browns in some areas. In Macau the top of the Bebinca is often browned with the back of a hot spoon. 6. Remove from oven and leave to cool before serving. 7. Score the pudding into 2-inch cubes before serving.

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171m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nThis recipe is named after the shape of the fried pastry, which translates to wormlike in Maquista. The recipe below shows a combination of the use of Chinese weight in catties (1 catty = 1.25 pounds), taels (1 tael = 1.33 ounces), and pounds. Genetes (Cornstarch Cookies) sometimes incorrectly have the same name as Bicho-bicho as, with some imagination, Genetes can look like fuzzy caterpillars. Translation of recipe for Bicho-bichoINGREDIENTS• 1 catty flour• 8 egg yolks• ¼ lb butter• ¼ bottle fresh milkMETHOD1. Make a dough with the ingredients listed and fry them until they form golden Bicho-bichos.2. When they have cooled down, bathe them in dissolved sugar.BICHO-BICHO wormlike PasTiesAlice de Spirito Santos Pinto MarquesRecipe circa 1950s

172METHOD1. Mix the egg yolks — fold in but do not beat the yolks.2. Cook the sugar in water until it begins to bubble and the sugar diluted.3. Fill a three-cornered funnel (or one that has the finest tip) with the egg yolk.4. When the diluted sugar is boiling, locate the funnel over and squeeze out the yolks in a spiral from the interior to the exterior of the circle pattern.5. Scoop off the cooked egg threads with a skimmer, letting all the sugar drip off. Separate the egg threads with two forks.6. Lay the threads in a platter to serve.INGREDIENTS• 10 duck egg yolks• 20 chicken egg yolks• 2 lb sugar• 1 cup waterThe long golden strands of this Portuguese recipe called Fios de Ovos was introduced to Macau, and looking like long blonde hair (which the Macaenses don’t have), the name was ironically changed to Cabelo de Noiva and very popular at wedding receptions. The use of duck’s eggs in this recipe is unusual as many Portuguese dating from the 1940s use only chicken eggs. To form the egg threads, it is important to hold the funnel as high as possible and to make sure the liquid sugar below does not get too hot and thicken. A little water can be added from time to time to prevent this.CABELO DE NOIVA (Fios de Ovos) Bride’s hairAlice do Espírito Santo Pinto MarquesRecipe circa 1950s

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174The origin of this recipe is more than likely not Portuguese. Although several Portuguese sweets use cornstarch (amido de milho in Portuguese) as opposed to cornflour (farinha de milho), I could not find a recipe for anything similar to this except in Brazil where they make Biscoitos de Maizena using a brand of cornstarch called Maizena. As a matter of interest, cornstarch was discovered and used in the mid-1800s for starching clothes, then soon after as a thickening agent.They are sometimes known as Bicho-bicho in Maquista by some because the cookies resemble fuzzy caterpillars. The actual version of Bicho-bicho is a fried twisted doughnut, the recipe of which is in Graça Pacheco Jorge’s* and Maria Celestina de Mello e Senna’s recipe books, which is similar to Filipino pastry of the same name. Maria Celestina, the granddaughter of Barão de Cercal, is best known for her sweets and desserts but has also covered many, if not the majority, of Macaense cuisine. In her books Bons Petiscos (2nd edition published in 1977) and Cozinha de Macau (published in 1998), one will find recipes, both sweet and savory, which are typical of those from the first to middle of the twentieth century.* Pacheco Jorge, A Cozinha de Macau da Casa do Meu Avô, 106.INGREDIENTS• 1 lb cornstarch• 1 tsp baking powder• ½ lb sugar• ½ lb butter• 8 egg yolks• 3–4 drops vanilla essence• flourMETHOD1. Beat the sugar in the butter, then add the vanilla essence and the egg yolks one by one, beating continuously until mixed thoroughly. Add the cornstarch with 1 teaspoon baking powder to the butter-egg mixture and stir to blend. 2. Remove from the bowl to a flat surface dusted with flour and knead until it is again thoroughly mixed and dough-like — about 20 minutes. Separate the dough into 3 to 5 portions.3. Fill each portion into a manual 1½-inch tubular cookie disperser using a serrated form.4. Squeeze or crank the handle of the dispenser emitting a roll of dough on a baking tray with a buttered cookie sheet, which has been dusted with flour.5. Cut the roll into 3-inch segments, then separate them to about 1 inch apart.6. Put the tray in a preheated oven at 325ºF and bake until the cookies are lightly browned — about 20 to 25 minutes.GENETES cornsTarch cookiesMaria Celestina de Mello e SennaAdapted from Bons Petiscos Recipe 1977

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177m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. First thing to do is to have all the fruits mixed together and soaked in brandy and crème de cacao overnight, or preferably, for 2 + days.2. After soaking the fruits in brandy, mix in the chopped almond. 3. In a separate bowl mix the flour with the allspice, salt, nutmeg, and cinnamon.4. Combine the flour mixture with the fruits and blend thoroughly. 5. In another bowl beat the butter and 1 pound sugar until creamy. Add the eggs, one by one, beating continuously to create a batter. 6. Add the batter to the fruit and flour mixture till thoroughly mixed.7. Over medium heat melt ¼ pound (½ cup) sugar in a small saucepan till it becomes a light caramel color, then add the ¼ cup of molasses. Pour mixture over the well-mixed fruit and batter. Mixture will begin to harden as it cools, so stir quickly to mix thoroughly. 8. Have the cake mold buttered and dusted with flour. Spoon in the mixture and bake in the oven at 275°F until done. This recipe will make 4 loaf size cakes.9. Leave it to cool for 24 hours, then pack it well and keep until Christmas.INGREDIENTS• 1 lb butter • 1 ¼ lb sugar, divided • 1 ½ lb flour • 2 lb seedless raisins• 1 ½ lb currants• 1 ½ lb sultanas (golden raisins)• ½ lb chopped almonds (optional) • 12 large eggs • ¾ cup brandy• ½ cup Kahlua or Crème de Cacao• ¼ cup molasses• 1 tbsp allspice• ½ tsp salt• 1 tbsp nutmeg• ½ tbsp cinnamonI tried to copy this recipe, keeping it in my mother’s words as much as possible; unfortunately this was not possible. I had to edit the sentences that were repetitious, and guess at the amount of chopped almonds she used. My wife Penny added necessary steps in the procedure that mother took for granted as any experienced cook would, but essential for others using this recipe. I also omitted the candied peel she used in the recipe. If one would like to use candied peel, reduce the raisins to1½ pounds and the sultanas to 1 pound, but the currants remain at 1½ pounds, then add 1 pound candied peel to make a total of 5 pounds of fruit.(Makes 4 loaf size cakes) CHRISTMAS CAKE Olga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaModified by Penelope J. Jorge da Silva

178Coqueiras, bite-sized coconut tarts, most likely originated in Goa. In Portugal they are known as Pastelinhos de Coco. They are a part of almost all Macaense festivities, served in platters alongside Bebinga de Leite, Natas, and other sweets.INGREDIENTS• 6 large eggs• 1 cup sugar• 1 x 14 oz pkt desiccated coconut• 1 x 8 oz tub sour cream• 1 tbsp baking powder• 1 tsp vanilla essence• 48 mini tart shellsCOQUEIRA coconuT TarTsTheresa Yvanovich da LuzRecipe circa 1970sMETHOD1. Dissolve the sugar in a large bowl with ½ cup hot water, leave to cool.2. Add then mix all the above ingredients, adding 1 egg at a time.3. Half-fill the mini tart shells.4. Place them on a baking pan. Bake at 350°F for 30 to 35 minutes until the tops are lightly browned.

179m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Thoroughly wash the foot pieces. Add the pieces to a pot, add cold water to cover the pieces by about 2 inches, then bring to the boil. Turn the heat off, remove the pieces and rinse them in cold water, then return them to the pot and bring to the boil again. Turn the heat down to simmer until all the meat separates from the bones — about 2 hours. 2. With a slotted spoon remove the bones and any skin or meat from the liquid and discard. Remove from the heat and strain the liquid with cheesecloth into another container, removing all the solids. Leave the liquid to cool. Meanwhile wash and dry the pot.3. As the liquid begins to set, remove any fat that comes to the surface by skimming from the gelatin. Dispose of the fat and transfer the gelatin to the cleaned pot.4. Add rock sugar to the gelatin, then heat the liquid over medium-high heat until all the sugar is dissolved. Turn the heat off.5. Beat egg whites until stiff then add to the liquid gelatin and sugar mixture to absorb any foam that was generated from the mixture.6. Skim off egg whites, then strain again if the liquid is not completely clear. 7. Add Port wine to the mixture and stir to mix thoroughly.8. Pour into small Port glasses and leave to set in the refrigerator.INGREDIENTS• 1 calf ’s foot, chopped into pieces by butcher• 9 oz rock sugar• 2 eggs• 2 oz Port wine (tawny)• cheesecloth (for straining)Some in Hong Kong call this Geleia Pé de Vaca, literally Cow’s Foot Jelly. In Portuguese, for some reason they call it Mão de Vaca, literally meaning the “hand” of the cow. I will never forget the taste of this wonderful jelly my mother made especially for me. I could eat many glasses of this, but was always limited to one only. After everyone went to bed, I would sneak up to the refrigerator and help myself to another one, hoping my mother would not find out the next day. I remember as a boy hearing that a few family doctors used to tell their patients who were weak to ask my mother to prepare this jelly to help them regain strength. The tawny Port wine makes it different from other variations of this jelly using a Ruby Port instead.(Yields about ½ pint) GELEIA MÃO DE VACA cow’s fooT JellyOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1950s

180(For 12 tarts) INGREDIENTSPUFF PASTRY • 2 ½ cups flour• ½ lb butter (at room temperature)• 1 egg• 1 tsp powdered milk • 2 tsp shortening• ⅓ cup iced water • ¼ tsp saltCUSTARD• 8 egg yolks• ½ cup sugar• ½ cup milk• ½ cup evaporated milk• ½ cup waterNATAS À MODA DE MACAU egg TarTs macau sTyleCatarina Canavarro RamosMETHOD1. Sift the flour and powdered milk, then mix with the egg, shortening, salt, and iced water until thoroughly mixed. Chill the mixture in the fridge for 30 minutes.2. On a floured surface roll out the dough into a rectangle, cut the butter into thin slices and arrange them onto one half of the dough. Fold the other half over the buttered half. 3. Roll out the dough as thinly as possible, then fold it into a dough, sprinkle a little flour over the dough then wrap it with a clean piece of cloth and let it rest for another half an hour.4. Roll out the dough as thinly as possible again then fold it into thirds. Let it rest for another half an hour. Repeat the process 4 times.5. Roll the dough out into a large rectangle, then cut it into 12 discs roughly of 12 inches in diameter to fit into the cups of the pan.6. Meanwhile boil ½ cup water and add the sugar to make a syrup. Leave to cool.7. Heat the milk and evaporated and bring to a boil. 8. In a bowl, add the cooled-down sugar syrup to the egg yolks and whisk for about 2 minutes until the mixture becomes pale in color. 9. Very slowly pour in the hot milk and cream mixture while stirring all the time until combined. Strain and set the custard mixture aside.10. Preheat the oven to 400º F.11. Smear the inside of a 12-cup muffin pan with butter, then line each cup with a disc of dough, carefully press the pastry down, starting from the bottom, then up the sides.12. Pour the custard into the cupped pastry, filling each one to about ¾ of each cup.13. Bake in the upper part of the oven at 400°F for about 15 minutes or until the tarts are golden and the custard is toasted on the top.

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182METHOD1. Mix 1 cup water with 1 cup white sugar in a deep saucepan. Bring to the boil and continue to heat until the sugar syrup thickens to threadlike strips when tested with a spoon. Remove from heat and set aside to cool for about 5 minutes. Cooling much longer will harden the syrup.2. Meanwhile lightly stir the egg yolks with a fork.3. Add the egg yolks to the sugar syrup, then add the butter and stir to mix together.4. Turn the heat to medium, keep stirring the mixture until it thickens to the maximum. Remove from heat and set aside to cool completely, then cover with plastic wrap and set in the refrigerator for an hour to set.5. Line both palms of the hand with a little flour. With a spoon scoop out 1 heaped tablespoon of the almost dough-like mixture onto the palm of one hand. Lightly roll with both hands to form a ball.6. Place each of the formed balls onto a buttered tray. Cover with plastic wrap and leave in the refrigerator to set overnight.7. In a small deep pot heat 1 ½ cups sugar mixed with 1 cup water and bring to the boil. Lower to medium-high and continue to heat until the mixture thickens but do not let it turn yellow and caramelize.8. Place one ball into a deep spoon (preferably with a long handle) then dip into the hot sugar syrup to thinly coat the surfaces of the ball. 9. Lift the ball in the spoon onto a tray lined with parchment paper to cool completely and harden.10. The balls can be served on a tray as is or wrapped in transparent candy wrappers.INGREDIENTS• 12 egg yolks• 2 ½ cups sugar, divided• 1 tbsp butterWhen I was a little boy my mother would take me to weddings and large parties where these were served on a tray. Egg-candy balls or marbles were my favorite candy but only available at special functions. I remember once putting a few in my trouser pocket to save for another day. Little did I realize that they would eventually melt (especially in the hot sun where the children were left to play while the adults socialized) and seep out of the wrappers messing my trousers.(Makes 20 to 24 balls) REBUÇADOS DE OVOS egg-candyTraditional Portuguese

183m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. In a small bowl mix the sugar, flour, baking powder, then add the zest of 2 oranges and ½ cup of freshly squeezed orange juice and mix again to make a batter. Set aside.2. In a separate bowl beat 8 whole eggs, then add to the batter and mix well.3. Add 2 ounces melted butter and mix thoroughly.4. Prepare a 2-inch deep 14 x 10-inch baking pan by brushing the bottom and the sides with melted butter.5. Line the oven pan with parchment paper, pressing it well to the bottom and sides, and pushing it into all the corners, then brush the bottom, sides, and corners of the parchment paper with melted butter.6. Carefully pour the batter into the pan and bake it in a preheated oven at 350°F for 20 minutes.7. Remove the tray from the oven and carefully invert the cake, face side down, onto a clean kitchen dish cloth that has been sprinkled with sugar.8. Use the edge of the towel to roll the cake and continue to roll, assisted by the towel, until the entire cake is rolled. Leave the rolled cake in the cloth and allow to cool completely.9. Remove the cloth and place the rolled cake, seam side down, on a serving platter. INGREDIENTS• 8 eggs• 1 ½ cup sugar• 1 tsp baking powder• 2 tbsp all-purpose flour• 4 oz butter, divided• ½ cup fresh orange juice• 2 large oranges, zest only• 1 cup orange marmalade (optional)(Serves 8) TORTA DE LARANJA orange roll Olga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaAdapted by Penelope J. Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1960s

184The Chinese influence in the cuisine of the homes of the Portuguese in China is evident in many Macaense recipes. A few Chinese dishes are cooked and served in family meals though it is customary to eat Chinese food in Chinese restaurants. The use of ginger, green onions (scallions), soy sauce, and other condiments are often found in Macaense recipes but cooking Chinese food in Macaense homes or eating with chopsticks before the first third of the twentieth century was uncommon. Whether meant as an indirect compliment, or more likely sarcasm, to my grandfather José Vicente Jorge, the author of the Preface of Cozinha de Macau makes his point on the popularity of Asian cuisine, including Chinese. Eating with chopsticks (the fai-chis of delicate and able handling by the Chinese), or with spoon and fork disregarding the aggressive sharpness of the knife’s edge (as insisted upon by the learned sinologist and highly cultured epicurist José Vicente Jorge) does not increase or diminish the attraction for the variety of delicacies that the Nhonhas (daughters of the land) and the European ladies prepared, and continue to prepare, with the science [knowledge] of their palate.*As a young boy I would occasionally pass by the very low round table where my five Chinese amahs and male cook sat to eat their evening meals. They sat around on 10-inch high wooden stools set around a portable large round wooden table (low to the ground) in the spacious kitchen at the back of the house. Often they would treat me to small pieces of hám yue (salted fish), sometimes tofu or a few bites of other dishes they ate that I had never eaten before in any Chinese restaurant. Why refer to restaurants and not Chinese homes? Because it was very rare that the Chinese would invite foreigners to their homes for food, particularly in those days when there was still not much social interaction between the two ethnic groups. By the 1990s when I was working in Hong Kong and befriended several young Chinese men, the scene had changed completely. I would be invited, along with other non-Chinese, to their homes and party together, eating and drinking beer well into the night. Their home cooking was excellent and so very different from the restaurants. It was interesting to me that the men did most of the cooking and very fine cooks they were too.Chinese food as many know can range from the exotic to the very simple, from a banquet of multiple courses to a simple bowl of congee. From the sophisticated to peasant food, the Chinese have the magic and capability of making it all taste so wonderful that one never forgets. There is so much variety in Chinese cuisine on the whole that it surpasses any comestibles even the French can offer. Almost preempted by the Macaense, fusion food in our modern society has borrowed much from Chinese and other Asian cuisine.Other than the standard Chau Mein and Dim Sum delicacies offered at the Yum Cha restaurants (teahouses), which few try to replicate at home, the memorable and often inexpensive and simple dishes are the ones some of the community who left their Asian environment, their comfort zone, have brought into their home cooking as they settled in the western world.* Viana, António Manuel Couto, Preface of Cozinha de Macau by Maria Celestina de Melo e Senna, 7.

185m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nChinese Dishes in Macaense Homes

186PREPARING THE GRAVEL FOR THE FIRST TIMEMETHOD1. Wash the gravel and drain several times using a colander. Sift off the smaller sand if possible. Spread out to dry.2. Pour the gravel in a large wok and set it over a lit coal BBQ — use enough coals to cover the bottom of the grate and mound slightly.3. Stir the gravel occasionally until the wok is very hot. Pour in half of the crushed rock sugar, stir in to melt and coat the coarse sand. When melted pour in the other half and stir in to melt again. The sugar should start to burn and brown the gravel, eventually blackening it. The gravel is now ready for the first batch of chestnuts.Note: After the first use, the gravel should be left to cool and can be stored for future use. I have used the same gravel for a few years without replacing it if it is stored in a covered container and in a dry place.UTENSILS AND MATERIALS NEEDED• ¼-inch coarse sand or “pea gravel” to fill a 2-gallon bucket• 2 lb sugar (raw cane sugar), crushed• large wood paddle — available in restaurant supply stores• knife to cross-slit the skin of chestnutsI experienced the taste of the first little bag of chestnuts roasted this way on a cold winter’s evening in the streets of Hong Kong in the 1950s. The aroma of roasted chestnuts permeated the streets. Forty years later, the wood-burning metal drums and the street vendors became a rare sight in Hong Kong, but could still occasionally be seen in the side streets of Macau, using a gas-fired burner and a metal drum tumbler instead of firewood and sand in a very large wok. The nostalgic sight and aromas no longer permeated the streets, but the chestnuts were just as good. I tried to recapture the Hong Kong way of doing it in the recipe I wrote.CHESTNUTS — SAND ROASTEDAntónio M. Jorge da Silva

187m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nROASTING THE CHESTNUTS* METHOD1. Slit the shell of each chestnut crosswise on the flat side of the nut or at the bottom. Soak the chestnuts in warm water for 2 to 3 minutes, then remove them and pat dry.2. Preheat the sugar-coated (now black) coarse sand or gravel in a wok. Create a depression in the gravel in the middle of the wok. Put in about 8 to 10 chestnuts, then cover them with gravel. Put a cover on the BBQ to allow the chestnuts to steam for 10 minutes.3. Remove the cover and stir the gravel to spread the chestnuts and bury them in the gravel again, but this time away from the center of the work and with a good layer of gravel below them or the chestnuts will burn and dry out. Cover and leave to roast for about 10 to 15 minutes. 4. Remove the cover, stir the gravel with the chestnuts. Take one chestnut out, leave to cool a little but when still warm to the touch, peel to see if they need to be roasted longer. If so stir them into the gravel for another 3 to 5 minutes. Do not leave the chestnuts in for more than 5 minutes at a time in the repeat process or they will dry out.5. It is essential that the chestnuts be peeled when they are still warm. If they cool down too much and are difficult to peel, stir them in the sand again for a minute or so, then remove them and peel. 6. The hot gravel distributes the heat evenly. This is why the gravel-roasted chestnuts are not burnt as suggested in the lyrics “chestnuts roasting at an open fire” in the popular Christmas song.* Another faster way (but not as much fun) of preparation is to cross-slice the shell on the rounded side, soak in warm water for 2 to 3 minutes, pat dry, then roast them flat side down on a shallow roasting pan in a preheated oven at 425°F for about 15 minutes (depending on the size of the chestnuts, smaller nuts take less time) until the shell begins to curl up. Peel the chestnuts using a towel when they are quite hot. Toss in a bowl with melted butter if desired and serve warm.

188Chook used to be part of the first meal of the day for many Chinese of southern China. Many street stands or hole-in-the-wall open kitchens served this hot gruel or Congee.Chook is a cuisine name from the Cantonese dialect. Chicken is often the base meat of this dish. Other than the simplest form in this recipe there are different ways Chook is served: with pieces of pei dan (black preserved eggs), lotus seeds, among several others that do not come to mind.(Makes 8 cups) INGREDIENTS• 1 chicken — left whole• 2 pieces ginger (2 inches each), smashed• 1 ½ cups glutinous rice• 10 cups water• 2 tsp cilantro stalks• 1 tbsp spring onions, sliced ¼ inch• ½ tbsp saltThe following are condiments to be put in separate bowls and dispensers:• cilantro, chopped• spring onions, sliced ¼ inch• ginger, cut into thin 2-inch strips• sesame oil• soy sauce• white pepperCHOOK congeeAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. In a covered pot, boil the chicken with the ginger, sliced spring onions, cilantro stalks, and salt in 10 cups of water. Skim off scum occasionally. After boiling for 1 hour, remove the chicken. Strain the liquid, leave to cool, then skim off the fat. This can be better accomplished if left in the refrigerator for a few hours for the fat to solidify. Remove the skin from the chicken, shred the meat, cover and set aside. 2. In a pot, add the rice to the chicken stock prepared earlier and bring to the boil. Cover, lower heat to the lowest setting, and cook the rice for about 1 hour until the rice is cooked. About 45 minutes into the cooking, uncover and stir to make sure the rice is not sticking to the bottom of the pot. It is also an opportunity to check for doneness.3. Before serving, heat the Chook, add shredded chicken and stir in. Taste to see if extra salt is needed. 4. Serve hot with the condiments listed above for individuals to add as they choose.

189m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Fry the pork ribs in peanut oil, then add the hot water, onions, celery tips, carrot, salt, and pepper. Bring to the boil.2. Lower heat to simmer for 2 hours, then drain off the solids.3. Return to the stovetop and add the lotus root slices and dates. Leave to simmer for 1 hour.4. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper.5. Serve hot in individual bowls with 2 to 3 slices of lotus root and 3 to 4 dates in each.INGREDIENTS• 8-inch segment lotus root, sliced ¼ inch• ½ lb pork rib bones• 1 onion, quartered halfway (peeling the onion and cutting only halfway into the onion crosswise)• 2 celery tips with leaves• 1 carrot, 2-inch slices• 8 cups hot water• ¼ lb red dates (optional)• ½ tsp salt or to taste• ¼ tsp white pepper or to taste(Makes 6 cups) LIN-NGAU TONG loTus rooT souPAntónio M. Jorge da Silva

190INGREDIENTS• 1 bunch watercress• 2 cups chicken stock• 6 cups water• ½ tsp salt• ½ tsp white pepper• 2 pieces of ginger crushedSAI-YEUNG-CHOI TONG waTercress souPAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Pour the water and chicken stock in a pot. Bring to the boil. Add the watercress and 2 pieces of ginger crushed and turn heat down to simmer.2. Add salt and pepper, stir and leave to simmer for ½ hour.3. Turn heat down to low and render for another ½ hour. Adjust for salt and pepper as necessary and serve.Sai-yeung-choi Tong translates as soup of the Great Western Ocean (Tai Sai-yeung) vegetable. Great Western Ocean was the name once used by the Chinese to mean Portugal. The Portuguese introduced watercress to China and though this is typically a Chinese soup, virtually unknown in Portugal, it is one of the favorites in Macaense homes. (Makes 4 cups)

191m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Heat enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Turn heat to medium-high, then add the garlic and the ginger. Stir to cook but do not burn the garlic.2. Add the sliced spring onions and the chilies, stir for a minute.3. Add the wet bean sprouts, fold to mix with the oil and the fried ingredients.4. Add salt and pepper, then stir to mix. Cook until the sprouts are half softened, then add 2 teaspoons sugar and stir in.5. Serve with Minchi and white rice.INGREDIENTS• 1 lb bean sprouts, washed thoroughly• 3 cloves garlic, crushed then roughly chopped• 2 stalks spring onions, sliced into ¼-inch rings• 6 slices ginger, thinly sliced• 3 red chilies, split but left whole• 2 tsp sugar• 1 tsp salt, or to taste• ½ tsp white pepper• vegetable oilUsually cooked as an accompaniment to Minchi, this crunchy, slightly sweet and spicy dish is of Chinese origin but cooked in a recipe not used by them. The larger bean sprout can be cooked in the same way. NGA CHOI TSAI Bean sProuTsAntónio M. Jorge da Silva

192(Serves 12)INGREDIENTS• 7 Dungeness crabs, backs removed, cleaned, halved and cracked• 4 tbsp Chinese rice wine — shaoxing (a brown rice wine)• 8 x 1-inch segments ginger, pressed for juice• 8 x 1-inch segments ginger, cut into strips• 1 bunch spring onions, cut into thin strips• 1 tbsp cornstarch, add to 1/2 cup cold water• 2 tsp sugar• 2 tsp white pepper• 4 tbsp vegetable oil• 2 cups chicken stockKEUNG CHUNG HAI ginger craBsCarol Ann MonteiroModified by António M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Heat wok for about 1 minute over high heat. When very hot, pour in the vegetable oil and spread to coat the bottom of the wok. When the oil begins to smoke, put the ginger strips in and toss quickly until it starts to brown.2. Add the crabs and stir to coat all sides. Add the spring onions and stir-fry until the meat turns white. Lower the heat to medium, then add the pepper, sugar, ginger juice, and Chinese wine. Stir to thoroughly mix with the crab.3. Add chicken stock and let it come to the boil. Cover the wok and leave to steam for about 5 to 7 minutes, until the crabs are cooked.4. Add cornstarch mixed with a little cold water and stir to mix thoroughly with the crab. Serve hot.Note: If young ginger is available, double the amount of ginger in the recipe as young ginger is more tender but not as flavorful as the regular ginger found in most supermarkets.

193m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Mix the garlic, sesame oil, sugar, both soy sauces, and the chicken stock in a bowl and set aside.2. Place the whole fish in a platter, score the top, spaced 2 inches apart. If using fillets, wash and pat dry only, do not score.3. Slice all the ingredients and place on the fish, starting with the ginger, then spring onions, ham, and mushrooms on the top. Gently, pour the sauce mixture over the length of the fish, then sprinkle with white pepper.4. Pour 1 quart water in the wok and set the platter stand in the center. Bring to the boil over high heat. When boiling place the platter on the stand, cover and leave to steam for 5 to 8 minutes maximum, depending on the thickness of the fillets and size of the fish.5. This step is only if using a whole fish and not fillets. In a small saucepan, with pouring lip, bring about 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil to the boil. Uncover the wok, turn heat off and immediately pour the boiling oil over the entire length of the fish. 6. Remove the platter, garnish with cilantro and serve with steamed rice. Spoon the gravy over each serving of the fish.INGREDIENTS• 1 grouper or true cod (2 x ½-lb fillets if not whole fish)• 4 dry shitake mushrooms — soaked in hot water then cut in strips• 2 inches ginger, cut about 2 tbsp in thin strips, discard the rest• 2 stalks spring onions, most of the green top discarded and the rest cut into 3-inch strips• 4 sprigs cilantro with stalks for garnish• 1 slice ham, cut into thin strips (optional)• ½ tsp garlic, chopped• ¼ tsp sesame oil• 2 tbsp thin soy• 1 tbsp dark soy• ½ tsp sugar• ¼ cup chicken stock• ¼ tsp white pepper• vegetable oil — preferably peanut oilThis is a very traditional way of steaming fish in most households and restaurants in Hong Kong and Macau, and probably the Guangdong province of southeast China. I set the proportions of the ingredients in this recipe; the type of cod and its freshness is most important as this determines the quality of this dish.(Serves 4) CHING YUE sTeamed fish — canTonese sTyleAntónio M. Jorge da Silva

194(Serves 8 to 10)INGREDIENTS• 4 cups rice, cooked the day before if possible, fluff the rice grains on the day of cooking• 1 ½ lb shrimps, shelled, deveined and tails removed• 1 ½ lb roasted Char Siu (roasted pork) purchased on the day of cooking• ½ lb frozen petit peas• 6 eggs• 8 stalks green onions, sliced ¼ inch, divided• ½ cup Chinese thin soy sauce• 1 cup chicken stock• peanut oil• salt and white pepperPreparing the shrimps• 1 tbsp baking soda• 1 tbsp vegetable oil• 2 tsp white pepperCHAU FAHN fried riceGerry McDougallMETHOD1. Toss the shrimps in 1 tablespoon baking soda, then rinse twice in cold water. Pat dry with paper towels, add 1 tablespoon olive oil and 2 teaspoons white pepper, then mix thoroughly. Set aside.2. Slice the Char Siu into ¼-inch pieces, then mix with the rice, cover to prevent drying out and set aside.3. Stir-fry the shrimps in batches, adding half the sliced green onions while frying. Set aside to cool, then cut shrimps into ½-inch pieces. Set aside with juices and green onions from the pan.4. Crack the eggs and whip with a little salt and pepper, then fry in half-cup batches creating crepe-like sheets. Set aside on cutting board. When cool, cut into julienne strips and set aside.5. Mix the shrimps pieces into the rice and set near cooking surface.6. In a large wok heat the peanut oil, then stir in the rice. Add the other half of the green onions and stir in.7. Add the frozen peas, stir in, then pour in the soy sauce and stir to blend.8. Add the julienned egg and stir, then add 1 cup chicken stock, stir to mix, then cover and leave to steam for 2 to 3 minutes.9. Uncover. When rice is moist, but not soggy, remove and serve with stir-fried baby pak choi (bok choi).

195m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Prepare the sauce by mixing all the ingredients listed above, adding ½ cup chicken broth in a bowl. Set aside.2. Over high heat, fry the ground pork in 2 tablespoons oil. When cooked add the prepared sauce to the pan and stir in to blend for about one minute.3. Add the cut tofu, placing the cubes evenly in the pan and add the chicken stock. Raise heat to bring to the boil at the rim, then lower heat to medium, cover and leave to simmer for 2 minutes. Uncover and fold the tofu into the sauce carefully. Cover again and simmer over medium heat for 5 minutes.4. Mix 2 teaspoons cornstarch with a little cold water. Pour it evenly over the tofu and pork. Fold carefully over high heat until the sauce thickens.5. Serve with steamed rice.INGREDIENTS• ½ lb ground pork or ground chicken, if preferred • 2 x 28-oz pkt silken tofu, cut into 2-inch cubes• ½ cup chicken stock• 2 tbsp vegetable oil• 2 tsp cornstarch, mixed with a little cold waterSAUCE• 2 dried shitake mushrooms, soaked in hot water, then diced• ½ tbsp garlic and bean sauce (Toban Djan)• 1 tbsp black beans in chili sauce, mince the beans• 2 tsp black beans, minced• 3 cloves garlic, minced• 1 ½ tbsp dark soy• 1 tsp Thai chilies (about 3 red chilies), minced• 2 tbsp spring onions, chopped ½ cup chicken stock(Serves 4) MA-PO TAU-FU sPicy Tofu wiTh ground PorkAntónio M. Jorge da Silva

196(Serves 4)INGREDIENTS• 1 lb beef skirt steak, sliced cross-grained into strips• ¼ cup spring onions, sliced ¼ inch• 2 tsp cornstarch• Peanut oil for fryingMARINADE• ¼ cup ginger, ⅛-inch strips• 2 stalks spring onions, sliced ¼ inch• 2 Thai chilies, chopped (optional)• 2 tbsp sweet sherry• 2 tbsp sweet soy sauce• 2 tsp light soy• 1 tsp sesame oil• 2 tsp peanut oil• ½ tsp baking soda• 2 tsp jagra or sugar • 1 tsp black pepper, freshly groundCHAU NGAU-YUK Beef sTir-fryGerry McDougallMETHOD1. Wash the meat and pat dry. Thinly slice the meat along the cross-grain (¼-inch slices).2. Put the meat into a bowl and marinate for minimum ½ hr.3. Drain the marinade as much as possible into a bowl. Set the marinade aside.4. Heat 2 tablespoons peanut oil in a pan until very hot. Add the spring onions and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the beef. Cook one side for about 1 minute, then turn and stir-fry until medium rare. Remove the meat, leaving oil in the pan. Place onto a platter and set aside.5. Turn the heat up and add the marinade and ½ cup water to the pan. Bring to the boil, then add the cornstarch mixed with a little cold water. Stir to thicken, then pour over the meat and serve.Note: Parboil then stir-fry sugar peas, kai lan (Chinese broccoli), or other vegetables to serve as a side dish.

197m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Cut the beef across the grain into 2-inch strips. 2. Mix the ingredients for the marinade and add to the beef. Cover and refrigerate the meat for an hour. 3. Meanwhile, combine the sauce ingredients and set aside.4. Heat 4 to 5 tablespoons peanut oil in a wok or a deep pan. Add the spring onions, then the beef, and stir-fry until the beef is just brown but not done. Remove the beef with a slotted spoon and set aside. 5. Put in the onions and red and green peppers, stir-fry for 3 minutes until tender. Combine the sauce mixture and peppers and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the cornflour mixture and cook, stirring until the sauce has thickened. 6. Add the beef and stir-fry for a minute or until the meat is just done. 7. Serve with steamed rice or over a plate of stir-fried noodles.(Serves 4) SZI-CHIU NGAU-YUK Beef sTir-fry wiTh fermenTed Black BeansGerry McDougallINGREDIENTS• ¾ lb skirt steak or flank steak, sliced cross-grained into strips• ¼ cup spring onions, sliced ¼ inch• peanut oil for fryingMARINADE• ½ tsp baking soda• 2 tsp peanut oil• 1 tsp sesame oil• 2 tbsp sweet soy sauce• 2 tbsp sherry• 3 garlic cloves, minced• 2 stalks spring onions, sliced ¼ inch• 1 tsp chili flakes or fresh Thai chilies, chopped• ¼ cup ginger, julienned• 1 tbsp fermented black beans, minced• ½ tsp black pepper, fresh groundSAUCE• 2 tbsp soy sauce• 2 tsp sugar or jagra• 1 tsp black pepper• 2 tbsp cornstarch, mixed in ½ cup cold water until smoothVEGETABLES• 1 medium green pepper, sliced into ½- to 1-inch pieces• 1 medium red pepper, sliced into ½- to 1-inch pieces• 1 onion, quartered and halved again

198(Serves 6 to 8)LAANG MEIN chinese cold noodlesTherese Yvanovich da LuzRecipe circa 1970sMETHOD1. Marinate the chicken for 4 hours, then remove from marinade and steam the chicken with the pre-soaked shiitake mushrooms on the sides, and shredded ginger and sliced green onions over. Steam for 20 minutes until chicken is thoroughly cooked.2. When chicken is done, remove, add ½ tsp sesame oil to coat the chicken and set aside, then cut the shiitake mushrooms into strips and set aside.3. Sauté the cabbage in oil and ginger until the leaves are just wilted.4. Mix the sauce ingredients and set aside.5. Just before serving, boil the noodles in a large pot of water until the noodles are soft but still firm (al dente).6. Rinse the cooked noodles in cold water, then toss in the blended sauce and garnish with strips of scrambled egg, sliced green onions, and pine nuts.7. Serve noodles with the sauce over.INGREDIENTS• 3 x 6 oz pkg Chuka Soba noodles or Ramen• 3 lb chicken, cut to bite size• 1 cabbage, cut in strips• 1 bunch green onions, julienned• 2 eggs scrambled and cut in strips• 8 shiitake mushrooms, soaked in hot water • ½ tsp sesame oil• shredded ginger • pine nuts or sesame seed, toastedMARINADE• 1 tbsp ginger, minced• 1 tbsp garlic, minced• 2 tbsp green onions, sliced ¼ inch• 2 tbsp light soy• 1 tbsp dark soy• 2 tbsp sherry• 2 tsp fresh ground black pepperSAUCE• ½ cup broth from steaming the chicken• 1 tbsp grated ginger• 1 tsp dark sesame oil• 2 tsp dark soy or to taste• 1 tbsp hoisin sauce

199m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Cut spare ribs into segments by cutting between the bones. 2. Place the ribs into a bowl, then add all the ingredients except the spring onions. Thoroughly mix together by hand. Leave to marinate for at least 2 hours.3. Put the pork and mixed ingredients into a 1-inch deep Pyrex dish. Place the spring onion strips evenly over the ribs and ingredients.4. Place the Pyrex dish into a steamer or wok with rack to keep the dish above the water. Leave to steam for 20 minutes.5. Serve over white rice.INGREDIENTS• 1 lb spareribs — butcher cut to 1 ½-inch strips • 1 tbsp black beans, rough chopped• 1 ½ tbsp ginger, julienned to fine strips• 2 cloves garlic, minced• 1 tsp chili flakes• 1 tbsp light soy• ½ tsp white pepper• ¼ tsp sesame oil• 1 tbsp peanut oil• 1 tbsp cornstarch• 2 tbsp sherry• 1 tsp sugar• 2 stalks spring onions, julienned to 3-inch strips(Serves 4) SZI-CHIU PAI-KUAT sTeamed sPare riBs wiTh fermenTed Black BeansGerry McDougall

200(Serves 6) INGREDIENTS• 1 chicken• 2–3 pieces ginger, crushed• 2 stalks spring onions• ¼ tsp sesame oil• chicken stockDip sauce• 1 tsp salt• ¼ tsp sugar• 2 tbsp minced ginger• 2 tbsp minced spring onions (white part only)• 6 tbsp precooked peanut oilPAK CHAM KAI Plain choPPed chickenAlberto GarciaMETHOD1. To make the dip sauce, bring the oil to boiling point, then pour over the ginger and spring onions. Mix in the salt and a pinch of sugar. Stir to mix. Pour the dip sauce into 1 or 2 serving saucers and set aside.2. Wash the chicken, drain and pat dry the outside and the cavity. Coat the inside of the cavity with 1 teaspoon salt.3. Stuff the cavity with 2 to 3 pieces of crushed ginger and 2 stalks of spring onions.4. Add a mixture of half chicken stock and half water to completely cover the chicken (1 quart or more), bring to the boil, then add the chicken to the boiling stock.5. Cover and leave to boil for 3 minutes, skimming off any scum from the surface. Lower heat, cover again and leave to simmer for 45 minutes. Turn the heat off and leave chicken in the liquid to continue poaching for another 20 minutes.6. Before removing from the pot, check the chicken thigh making sure it is firm but still has some bounce to it.7. Remove the chicken from the pot, leave to cool. Rub the surface of the skin with a little sesame oil, then cut into 3-inch pieces, leaving the skin on the pieces where possible.8. Arrange the pieces on a platter and serve with dipping sauce.

201m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Wash the vegetable and remove the large leaves. Steam the stalks for 5 minutes, then remove and immerse the kale in a bowl of iced water (or at least rinse it well in cold water) to stop the cooking and keep the stalks green. Drain and set aside.2. Set the pan over high heat, then coat the bottom of the pan with vegetable oil. When the oil starts to smoke, toss in the garlic and fry until golden brown, then discard.3. Add the kai lan stalks. Stir-fry for ½ minute, then add the salt. Keep tossing the vegetable for another ½ minute, then add the sugar. Toss a few more times, but not more than ½ minute, then remove from heat. 4. Place the kai lan onto a serving platter, and if desired, pour the oyster sauce over.Note: Traditionally, the Chinese pour smoking hot peanut oil over the parboiled kale stalks instead of sautéing them in oil as described above. Oyster sauce is then poured over the stalks on the serving platter.INGREDIENTS• 1 lb kai lan (Chinese kale), large leaves removed• 3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed• 1 ½ tsp coarse salt• 2 tsp white sugar• 2 tbsp oyster sauce (optional)• vegetable oilKai lan, more often referred to as Chinese broccoli, is also called Chinese kale. Chinese vegetables are generally cooked by first immersing in boiling water for about a minute or two, then stir-fried with garlic or ginger in a wok over high heat, after which they are removed to a platter. Choi sum (literally meaning vegetable heart), a flowering cabbage, and tau kok (long string beans), for example, are cooked this way. If the vegetable is old and stringy, it is necessary to peel the stalks. Some even prefer it this way, but the Chinese never peel the stalk. KAI-LAN CHOI chinese BroccoliAntónio M. Jorge da Silva

202Referred to in California and in most recipe books as bok choi, it is phonetically pak choi in Cantonese, meaning white vegetable. Bok choi is sold in various varieties in Chinese markets — baby bok choi, center or heart of bok choi (pak-choi sum), regular large bok choi,* and Shanghai bok choi, a smaller variety. The latter two can be found in regular supermarkets. This recipe is written for the smaller varieties but with a slight adjustment in the cutting of the stalks and parboiling, it will do just as well for the regular-sized vegetables.INGREDIENTS• 2 lb heart of or baby bok choi• 8 thin slices of peeled ginger• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed• 1 ½ tsp coarse salt• 2 tsp white sugar• vegetable oilPAK CHOI Bok choiAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Wash the vegetables, removing any sandy soil from the inner part of the large stems when using pak-choi sum. Cut ¼ inch or a little off the bottom stalk, then immerse in a half-full bowl of water, stalk side down. Leave for at least 1 hour to “revive” the leaves.2. Half fill a small pot (large enough to insert all the vegetable stalks) and bring to the boil.3. Insert all the bok choi, stem side down into the boiling water and leave to parboil for 1½ minutes. Do not leave longer or it will overcook the stems. Pour the bok choi and water into a colander to drain, then pour or spray cold tap water over to stop the cooking and keep the stalks green. Drain and set aside.4. Set a deep pan over high heat, then coat bottom of the pan with vegetable oil. When the oil starts to smoke, toss in half of the ginger slices and the garlic. Flip both sides until just turning golden brown, then add the remaining slices of ginger.5. Lightly fry both sides of the fresh ginger, then add the bok choi. Stir-fry for ½ minute and add the salt. Keep tossing the bok choi for half a minute, then add the sugar. Toss a few more times, but not more than ½ minute and remove from heat. 6. Place the bok choi onto a serving platter and serve hot.* If using regular large bok choi, wash then slice the stiff white stems into ¾-inch slices diagonally. Cut the remaining green leaves into 3- to 4-inch slices. Immerse the white stalks in boiling water for 1 ½ minutes, drain. Stir-fry the green leaves with the sliced stalks as in steps 4 to 6 above.

203m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nSauces

204Balichão is used as a sauce additive to some recipes such as Margoso Lorcha, Balichão Tamarindo and mixed as an accompaniment in others — primarily Tacho. Most likely of Malay origin, it is used by the Malays, Filipinos, and Chinese, as well as other Asian cultures. The very tiny shrimps used to make this sauce are almost impossible to find in the marketplace, but somewhat larger ones are available frozen or brined in jars. This mixture can be kept for many years. I have had some that were 10 years old.The original recipe uses tiny shrimps, some less than ¼ inch in length and barely visible individually due to their transparency. When the live or now brined raw shrimps are not available, prepared balchang or balachang sauces from Malaysia and the Philippines, such as Alamang, have sometimes been used to prepare this sauce. Naturally it is best not to use commercially prepared sauces. Bear in mind that the commercially prepared sauces do not have the ingredients and spices that give the “Macau” balichão taste. However, it is doubtful that the Macau Balichão Sauce as we know it will survive the next few generations and will be made by less and less as the years go by. However, other Asian cultures will retain their sauce and I can see future use of recipes requiring this sauce using what is commercially available, but the taste will not be even close.INGREDIENTS• 1 ½ lb tiny shrimps in brine — about ¼ inch in length• 4 lemons — 2 thinly sliced, 2 juice only• 2 tsp black peppercorns• 1 tsp ground black pepper• 6 tsp salt• 6 bay leaves• 4 cinnamon sticks• 2 tsp whole cloves• 6 red chilies — hot• 1 bottle Portuguese brandy (French alternative)BALICHÃO Macaense shrimP PasTeOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaModified by António M. Jorge da SilvaMETHOD1. Empty the shrimps or shrimp paste into a large bowl (The original recipe uses very small shrimps in brine). Rinse and drain. If shrimps are larger than ⅜ inch in length, grind them in a mortise and pestle.2. Add the juices of 2 lemons and slices of the other 2 lemons, skin included.3. Add all the other above ingredients and mix well.4. Put the mixture into an airtight glass jar and leave for at least 40 days before use.5. Before serving, follow the mixing instructions.

205m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHODMix the above ingredients 1 hour before serving. Put in a sauceboat and serve with Tacho (Chau-chau Pele).INGREDIENTS• 4 tbsp balichão• 1 piece ginger — 2 inches long, smashed• 1 medium onion — thinly sliced• 2 red chilies, thinly sliced• 1 lemon — juice only• 2 tbsp rice vinegar (optional) to increase quantity(Serves 2) BALICHÃO SERVING SAUCE — an older variaTionOlga A. Pacheco Jorge da Silva(Used mainly by Macau families when serving Tacho)Recipe circa 1940s

206Chili Vinagre is spicy, sweet, and sour, more of a light sprinkle over morsels of some Macaense dishes or used as a dip. Small quantities are usually made and shared among a few at table using a small spoon or in very small Chinese condiment saucers for individual servings. Another version of this is to use red Chinese chili sauce (lat-chiu cheung), also known in Maquista as Chile Miçó* or Misó, instead of fresh chilies. Used for dipping steam crab, or with Tacho by those of past generations, this dip is now rarely used and will soon fade away as the Macaense culture will also with the passage of time.* Chile Miçó: The term Miçó (pronounced Misó) is Japanese and comes from a bean paste made there. Chili Miçó is an old term used in Macau to describe a chili paste. See Batalha, Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, 220.INGREDIENTS• 3 fresh red chilies, thinly sliced• 5 tbsp Chinese rice vinegar• ½ tsp sugarCHILI VINAGRE sPicy-sweeT chili diPAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaMETHODCombine the ingredients and leave to soak of at least ½ hour before using as dip. This dip has similarities with Ginger Mignonette sauce used for Oysters.

207m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. For the sauce, sauté the onions, garlic, and bay leaves until the onions are soft and translucent. 2. Add the chilies, tomato paste, half of the coconut milk, salt, and the Madeira wine, stir in and cook over low heat for about 2 minutes.3. Leave to cool, remove the bay leaves, then add the peanuts, olive oil, and the other half of the coconut milk. Pour into a blender and grind until smooth. Set aside.INGREDIENTS• 1 sweet onion, chopped• 1 tsp garlic, chopped• 4 red hot chilies, minced• 2 tsp tomato paste• 1 cup honey-roasted peanuts• 1 cup coconut milk, split• ¼ cup sweet Madeira wine• 2 bay leaves• ¼ cup Portuguese olive oil• 1 tsp sea salt or to tasteGALINHA AFRICANA SAUCEAntónio M. Jorge da Silva

208Little is known today of the influence on Macaense food from Portuguese settlements in the Spice Islands of the Moluccas and Timor. The Portuguese established their presence on the island of Timor in 1556 and declared it a colony in 1702. Could Limão de Timor, a sweet and sour, spicy hot accompaniment, very much like a Sambal or a part of a Sambal sauce, have originated in Timor when the Portuguese were there? There is no evidence that proves that, but a recipe from Macau does exist with that name.LIMÃO DE TIMOR Olga A. Pacheco Jorge da SilvaRecipe circa 1940sMETHOD1. Cut the limes, first halving them, then scoring the skin of each half vertically until nearly through. Add salt between all the segments together with 2 or 3 small red chilies (known as chili mosquitos). Set them in sunlight for 3 days then make the sauce [juice] in the following manner: Grind the peppers and mix them with the juice of the limes, then strain off the juice. INGREDIENTS• 3 dozen limes• juice of 12 pounds of the same• 2 pounds chilies• coarse salt

209m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMETHOD1. Puree all the ingredients in a blender.2. In a small pan bring the sauce to a boil, then lower the heat and leave to cook for 10 minutes until the sauce reduces about a quarter.3. Remove from heat, leave to cool, then pour into a jar and refrigerate until ready to use.4. Double or triple the recipe to fill a small jar. Refrigerated, this sauce can be kept for 6 months or more.“INGREDIENTS• 6 red Thai or cayenne chilies, seeded and roughly chopped• 6 red serrano chilies, seeded and roughly chopped• 4 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped• 2 tbsp tomato paste• ½ cup distilled vinegar• 1 tsp sea salt• 2 tsp sugar• 2 tbsp olive oilNow that a chili paste lat-chiu cheung made by Koon Yick Wah Kee, popular in the Macaense communities, is almost impossible to find, the use of Siracha is being used more and more. Siracha is named after the town of Si Racha, in Chonburi Province of Eastern Thailand. This sauce is available in the supermarkets of today, but should it be discontinued someday as others have been, I decided to make up my own recipe to resemble the sauce.SIRACHA THAI CHILI SAUCE António M. Jorge da Silva

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211m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nAppetizersApabico - 80Calikok - 82Cheese Toast - 81Chilicote - 84Chilicote Frito - 86Chouriço Vinho d’Alho - 88Empada (Fish Pie) - 90Macau Prawns (Stuffed Prawns) - 92Prawns Piri-piri - 93Minchi Buns (Pãezinhos Recheados) - 94Ovos com Jagra - 87Pastéis de Bacalhau (Codfish Fritters) - 96Shrimp Toast - 98SoupsCaldo Verde - 100Papa - 101Sopa de Galinha Assada - 104Sopa de Lacassá - 102Main CoursesArroz Gordo - 106Bife Macau - 108Bife Macau by Flávio - 109Capela - 110Casquinhas - 112Diabo à Olga - 114Diabo à Bosco Correa - 116Diabo — An Old Recipe - 118Feijoada Macaense - 122Feijoada à Minha Maneira - 120Galinha Africana - 124Galinha Parida - 119Galinha Saffrang - 126Galinha Saffrang Curry - 128Galinha com Rábano - 130Margoso Lorcha - 132Minchi - 134Minchi — Chicken - 136Minchi — Turkey with Mushrooms - 137Porco Bafassá - 138Porco Sutate - 140Porco com Restrate - 142Porco Balichão Tamarinho - 144Porco Vinho d’Alho Goense - 146Porco Vinho d’Alho Picante - 148Rins à Antiga de Macau - 149Tacho - 150Vaca Chau-chau Parida - 152Vaca Estufada - 156Vaca Indiana - 154Virado - 158Desserts and ConfectionsAluá - 160Arroz Doce - 162Bagi - 165Bebinca de Leite - 166Bicho-bicho - 169Cabelo de Noiva - 170Chacha - 163Christmas Cake - 175Coqueira - 176Geleia Mão de Vaca - 177Genetes - 172 Natas à Moda de Macau - 178Rebuçados de Ovos - 180Torta de Laranja - 181RECIPE INDEX

212Chinese Dishes in Macaense HomesChestnuts — Sand Roasted - 184Chook — Congee - 186Lin-ngau Tong — Lotus Root Soup - 187Sai-yeung-choi Tong — Watercress Soup - 188Nga Choi Tsai — Bean Sprouts - 189Keung Chung Hai — Ginger Crabs - 190Ching Yue — Steamed Fish - 191Chau Fahn – Fried Rice - 192Ma-po Tau-fu — Spicy Tofu with Ground Pork - 193 Chau Ngau-yuk — Beef Stir-fry - 194Szi-chiu Ngau-yuk — Beef Stir-fry with Fermented Black Beans - 195Laang Mein — Chinese Cold Noodles - 196Szi-chiu Pai-kuat — Steamed Spare Ribs with Fermented Black Beans - 197Pak Cham Kai — White Chopped Chicken - 198Kai-lan Choi — Chinese Broccoli - 199Pak choi — Bok choi - 200SaucesBalichão - 202Balichão Serving Sauce - 203Chili Vinagre - 204Galinha Africana Sauce - 205Limão de Timor - 206Siracha Thai Chili Sauce - 207

213m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nMeasurement Conversion ChartVolume Conversion Table½ teaspoon 2 milliliter1 teaspoon 5 ml3 teaspoons 1 tablespoon ½ fluid oz 15 ml6 teaspoons 2 tablespoons 1 fl oz 30 ml ¼ cup 4 tablespoons 2 fl oz 59 ml½ cup 8 tablespoons 4 fl oz 118 ml¾ cup 12 tablespoons 6 fl oz 177 ml1 cup 16 tablespoons 8 fl oz 250 ml1 pint (2 cups) 16 fl oz 500 ml1 quart (4 cups or 2 pints) 32 fl oz 1 liter1 gallon (16 cups or 4 quarts) 128 fl oz 4 liters Weight (Mass)½ oz 15 grams1 oz 30 grams2 oz 60 grams 1 ½ taels3 oz 90 grams3.5 oz 100 grams4 oz (¼ lb) 125 grams 3 ½ taels8 oz (½ lb) 250 grams 7 taels12 oz (¾ lb) 375 grams 10 taels16 oz (1 lb) 450 grams1.10 lb 500 grams 14 taels1.25 lb 625 grams 1 catty2.20 lb 1 kilogramKITCHEN MEASUREMENT CONVERSION CHARTS

214Oven Temperature ConversionsCelsius Fahrenheit140º C 275º F150º C 300º F165º C 325º F180º C 350º F190º C 375º F200º C 400º F220º C 425º F230º C 450º F240º C 475º F

215m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nBatalha, Graciete Nogueira Glossário do Dialecto Macaense, Faculdade de Letras da Universidade de Coimbra, Instituto de Estudos Românticos, Coimbra, Portugal, 1977.Boxer, Charles Ralph Four Centuries of Portuguese Expansion, 1415–1825: A Succinct Survey, University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, 1969.Braga, José Pedro The Portuguese in Hong Kong and China, Fundação Macau, 1998.Collingham, Lizzie Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors, Oxford University Press, New York, 2006. Doling [Jackson], Annabel Macau on a Plate, A Culinary Journey, Roundhouse Publications (Asia) Ltd., Hong Kong, [2002].Gomes, Maria Margarida A Cozinha Macaense, Direcção dos Serviços de Turismo, Macau, 1981.Hamilton, Cherie Y, Cuisines of Portuguese Encounters, Hippocrene Books Inc., New York, 2001.Jackson, Annabel Taste of Macau, Portuguese Cuisine on the China Coast, Hippocrene Books, New York, 2004. Jorge, Cecília Macanese Cooking, A Journey across Generations, Associação Promotora da Instrução dos Macaenses, Macau, 2004.Jorge da Silva, António M. Macaenses — The Portuguese in China, Instituto Internacional de Macau with support from Fundação Macau, Macau, 2015.Krondl, Michael The Taste of Conquest: The Rise and Fall of the Three Great Cities of Spice, Ballentine Books, New York, 2007.Lopes, António Vicente Receitas da Cozinha Macaense, Tipografia da Missão, Macau, 1977.BIBLIOGRAPHY

216Modesto, Maria de Lourdes Traditional Portuguese Cooking, First English Edition, June 1989, Editorial Verbo, Lisbon/São Paulo 1982.Montalto de Jesus, C. A. Historic Macau, Oxford University Press, Hong Kong, Kelly & Walsh, 1902; second edition, Macao, Salesian Printing Press and Tipografia Mercantil, 1926; reprinted, Oxford University Press, 1984.Pacheco Jorge, Graça A Cozinha de Macau da Casa do Meu Avô, Instituto Cultural de Macau, 1992.Pereira, João F. Marques Ta-Ssi-Yang-Kuo, Serie 1, vol. I – II, Edição da Direcção dos Serviços de Educação e Cultura, Arquivo Histórico de Macau, 1984.Rosa-Limpo, Berta O Livro de Pantagruel, Cozinha Doçaria Bebidas, Sociedade Nacional de Tipografia, Lisboa, 1947.Senna, Maria Celestina de Melo e Bons Petiscos, 2nd Edition, Centro de Informação e Turismo, Macau, 1977.Cozinha de Macau, Colleção: Bom garfo & bom copo,Vega Limitada, 1.a Edição, 1998.Teixeira, Fr. Manuel Macau no Séc. XVIII, Imprensa Nacional de Macau, 1984.Wilkinson, R. J. A Malay-English Dictionary, London, 1955.Yule, Henry and A. C. Burnell The Concise Hobson-Jobson: An Anglo-Indian Dictionary, First published by Wordsworth Editions in 1996; reissued in 2008, Hertfordshire, England.All photographs were provided by the author except the ones on the following pages: 80, 90, 150, 161, 170, 171, 173, 176 and 179 by António R. Monteiro 107, 111, 115, 123, 136, 144, 163, 164 and 203 by R. RamosPHOTOGRAPHY

217m a c a e n s e c u i s i n e | o r i g i n s a n d e v o l u t i o nBIOGRAPHYAntónio Manuel Pacheco Jorge da Silva was born on July 4, 1938 at 20 Rua da Penha in Macau. He gained his degree in architecture at the Portsmouth School of Architecture, now Portsmouth University, in Hampshire, England. He practiced his profession in the United Kingdom of Great Britain, the United States of America, Hong Kong and Macau.His interest in the history of the Macaense people and their genealogy led to the publication of several articles on the subject in 1996, then five published books on the history of the Macaense people:The Portuguese Community in Hong Kong – a Pictorial History, 2007.Diaspora Macaense to California, 2009.The Portuguese Community in Hong Kong – a Pictorial History, Volume II, 2010.The Portuguese Community in Shanghai – a Pictorial History, 2012.Macaenses – the Portuguese in China, 2015.This, his sixth publication, Macaense Cuisine – Origins and Evolution, 2016 looks at another aspect of Macaense history, their food that evolved over the years with recipes that parallels their cultural evolution.

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MACAENSECUISINEAntónio M. Jorge da SilvaOrigins and evolution ne can say that Fusion Cuisine had its beginnings during the era of Portuguese discoveries in the 15th century then continued to develop after the long stay of the Portuguese and their descendants in the tiny Portuguese enclave of Macau. Asian wives, concubines and amahs brought with them their ingredients, cooking methods and utensils to adorn Portuguese soul food embraced in the memo-ries of the Portuguese men who sailed to reside in the East. Over the centuries these unique flavors, usually with lots of gravy, developed to become Macaense cuisine.In the 21st century many of the recipes were transported in the notebooks and memories of those who emigrated from East to West after the raison dʼetre of the Portuguese colonialists and their multi-lingual descendants ceased to be. Dissipating in the culture of fast food and other ethnic influences, changes in the produce market, and the passage of time, Macaense soul food is slowly being diversified – some recipes and ingredients progressing with the change of time and others commercially misrepresented.Recipe evolution is inevitable, occurring from the beginning of Eastern influence on Portuguese cuisine to this day. Our youngsters, several generations now born in the West far from the roots of their parents in Asia, still enjoy Macaense cuisine. Their Western friends, tasting this food for the first time relish and await another taste. Minchi might soon compete with other ethnic delights while Balichão and Cabidela fade into history.O What is Macaense Cuisine? What is its history and how has it evolved outside of Macau, Hong Kong and Shanghai following the diaspora of the Macaense people after World War II?MACAENSE CUISINEOrigins and evolution